M1tch

Hi there, I have currently got a VVTi inlet target using the 1UZ basemap which uses the TP vs RPM to work out the VVTi, I have also had a look at a few of the basemaps for the black, Xtreme as well as the Altezza VVTi values (3S-GE I believe), I think the Altezza one uses a MAP figure vs rpm for the inlet target. Just wondering what values I should use on my 1zz engine, should I look to run the base values from the Xtreme basemap? I can't really tune VVTi on a road tune so would just be looking for the most aggressive but still safe set of values - the 1UZ map has a max value of 35 (35 degrees from fully retarded), the Xtreme basemap pushes this to 55 which is fully advanced (tailing off at higher RPMs) - just checking that this should be ok to run considering its a basemap so should't cause any issues. Thanks in advance!

I have DI#1 set as the speedo in from the OEM loom from the ABS and the calibration number I have works, I have grabbed a DI output and its set to be 'speedo out', there is a folder further down which has the speedo correction figure (percentage or offset etc) - am I correct to say that it will automatically use the DI Speedo out as the output or is there somewhere I need to configure the ECU to tell it what output to use?

I have gone into the map and pulled timing in that cruise cell - think it was up at something like 35, have dropped it to 28 as per the cell next to it, will also see if I can log the knock next time I am out and driving - its only got a narrowband OEM sensor but will see what the knock is like. Its a 79mm bore so going with the 7KHz option. Will be swapping to a better Bosch 'wideband' knock sensor at some point, but its impossible to get to the stock sensor with the engine in the car. Might look to change the ignition table further by using one of the basemap files - the car is running on V power so knock should be under control slightly better than say 95.

Hi there, Its a Toyota MR2 roadster (mk3), it does use a Canbus, reading further here is the current setup: ABS sensors > ABS ECU > ECU (1hz = 1mph) > Instrument cluster The speed signal is being intercepted by the Link, I think I came to the same conclusion as yourself with where the speed needs to be intercepted, I was initially thinking: ABS sensors > ABS ECU > ECU (1hz = 1mph) > Link ECU > Instrument cluster However to your point it would make sense to intercept it before it gets to the ECU so: ABS sensors > ABS ECU > Link > ECU (1hz = 1mph) > Instrument cluster I think to make it work I just need to feed an output from the Link to the input on the ECU for the speed signal - should be as easy as simply cutting the original feed into the ECU and repinning the connector to take the output from the Link - basically feeding the stock ECU an adjusted signal. I had a look at the link yesterday, I selected a spare digital output and set it to 'speed out', how do I configure the Link to take the input and send the adjusted output to the output? I can see the configuration for the speedo adjustment in the settings - does it automatically use this figure as I have set the digital out as a speedo out in the function list drop down? I will at some point need to tap directly into the ABS ECU for signals to enable traction control, but that's a bit further down the road!

Hi all, Currently my stock ECU is running the instrument cluster (as well as a few other functions), I am looking to swap out my wheels and tyres so might need to adjust my speedo to correct for the different size, there is only 1 speed signal that comes into the ecu (Link is reading this as DI#1) and is at 1hz per 1mph. The Link itself isn't connected to the instrument cluster at all it seems meaning that any correction on the Link won't affect the instrument cluster so I am looking at how I could get the Link to run the cluster. My guess is that I could just use the stock wiring loom and use a digital output to the speedo on the instrument cluster instead of the stock ECU running it? I am thinking that if the rest of the cluster is powered and everything else is run on the stock ECU the cluster would just need the speed signal fed through. I have the pin outs for the stock ECU somewhere, guessing I can just configure one of the digital outs to send the signal adjusted on the Link? I can see the tach input and output but can only see a speed signal coming in and there seems to be a data line going to the instrument. I guess I would need to check the signals at the back of the instrument to work out which one is the speed in at that end? I know that the stock ECU is running the instrument cluster as I have set the Link ECU to sweep the rev counter on start up (which it doesn't). I am guessing that instead of trying to find a speedo out signal I could feed the speed in signal into the link into DI#1 as it is at the moment and then output it via another DI and feed that output into the input on the stock ECU meaning that the Link can adjust the speed signal before it gets to the ECU to then be sent to the cluster. Thanks in advance!

Just wanted to thank you for your help on this, that calibration figure seems to be about right! Also looks like the ECU has worked out the gear number as well which is great

Thanks for that, yeah I grabbed the 350z table combined with one of the Toyota VVTi inlet target tables as well based on TP, just taken the car out for a drive and just checking the logs now. I noticed/could hear what I think is a bit of pinging on cruise at low load, fueling seems to be about right so might need to retard the ignition slightly.

Hi all, Just doing a bit more tuning on my NA 1zz, idle MAP is at around 30-35 so I am aiming for an Lambda of 1, full vacuum is obviously 100 - car is currently not boosted so won't be using any MAP value above 100 at the moment. I have it current set to aim for around 13.5:1 top end, might look to richen it up slightly 12.5:1 - perhaps using a basemap for the 350z as an option. What does everyone think? Current Basemap for 350Z:

Thank you, will check to see how close that figure is, hopefully then I can work out launch control!

The ABS sensor signals go into a separate ABS ECU, the ABS ECU then sends a signal to the ECU which the DI#1 is taking a signal from. All of the calculations are done in the ABS ECU to output the MPH figure rather than the larger number of pulses from the actual ABS reluctor rings (although I will need to tap into the ABS sensors directly to sort out traction control in the future as I need driven and non driven speeds). 1 pulse from DI#1 = 1mph 1 mph = 1.609 kph = 1609 metres per hour Guessing if I chop that value down by 100 I guess my starting calibration would be 161? The alternative calculation if I were to tap into an ABS sensor would be to use the teeth count, I believe my car runs a 48 tooth ring, using the help file it would be: (48/1.88468)*31.83 = 810 I can't use that figure as its above the maximum of 500? Looking at the log of the last drive it shows the DI#1 value at 1hz with a speed of 360kph - I guess I could also try 360 as a calibration figure to start with?

Hi all, Just in the process of trying to get launch control sorted for my car, digital input 1 is the speed signal, 1 hz is about 1 mph, think it over-reads slightly, basically I can't use it as a wheel speed as the ECU can't use the signal as given (the signal is from the ABS ECU so is already converted to a MPH pulse). Anyway, I think I can still use it to flag when the car is stationary vs moving as the driven speed goes from 0kph to 360kph for 1hz on the signal - basically trying to set the limiter to say 3k RPM for launch, then unlock to the full RPM limiter as soon as I am moving. Eg '0kph driven = 3k limit, more than 0kph driven = full 7k rpm limit'. I have attached both the current mapping file and a recent log from earlier today (with the CLL off), looks like I need to tidy up - basically around 3,100rpm and 40KPa is steady cruise at 70 - think its running at around 13.8:1 so need to lean that out slightly. Can anyone help me and add in launch control? I have tried before but the car just revs past the RPM limiter all the times I have tried. Thanks in advance!

Hi all, I currently have my Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband attached to one of my exhaust manifold bungs (there are 3 on my engine, 2 in the exhaust manifold and 1 post cat) so I am getting readings from a combination of cylinders 2 and 4 which is giving me a stable reading. I have a full race manifold to go in which doesn't have any O2 bungs in it, would it be ok to use the post cat bung location or should I see if I can get a bung welded into the pre cat pipework just before the cat? I am guessing that the AFR would be slightly different post cat, however I know that a lot of dynos use an exhaust sniffer in the backbox which would be post cat for tuning. The engine is currently NA but will be running a turbo at some point in the future (with a bung in the downpipe pre cat) - was just wondering if I would be ok to run the wideband sensor in the post cat position until I swap to the turbo setup - I guess I could log the AFR in the current location and then again in the post cat location to see how much it might be different - guessing something like 0.5 AFR points perhaps. Anyone have experience on this matter? My current fuel table is pretty close to the target AFRs I am aiming for and am currently using the auto fuel correction option to adjust where needed - not wanting to run the engine lean if its trying to fuel differently to the current table. Thanks in advance!

Hi all, My digital input for my speed (from the stock ABS ECU) measures 1HZ for each MPH, currently trying to work out the calibration number I need for the wheel speed to allow it to make sense (plus able to use it for launch control etc. Currently have it set to 3 and here are a few examples of the input and speed output: 3.4mph = 407.8kph 54mph = 6480 kph 62.6mph = 6553.5 kph Just trying to work out what I need to change the calibration figure to so that the readings match up, thinking its going to be less than 1? Worth noting that the stock ABS unit takes all 4 ABS sensor signals (think they are 48 tooth) and then works out the speed and sends a single signal to the stock ECU/instruments. This is going to be a bit of a faff when it comes to sorting out traction control as I guess I am going to need to splice into 2 of the ABS signals directly in order to be able to get driven and non driven wheel speed - but just want to get the logging right first. Worth also noting that the Link ECU doen't drive the stock instruments, the stock ECU does as its currently running in piggyback for certain systems although 95% of the engine is being run by the Link ECU.

Hi all, Can anyone tell me which knock sensor I need for better knock control etc rather than using the stock 1 wire knock sensor as per OEM etc. Thanks in advance!

Ah, thank you for that, I will check out the software later for the filters etc - although might be an issue if its already taken 1000 samples by the time the engine is up to temp. Will look into the virtual aux option though as that seems to make sense to use.

Hi all, I have been gradually refining the map on my car with road tuning and logging, then using the mixture map to find cells that need a slight tweak - most are now within 0.2 AFR or less of the target AFR which is great. My question is around being able to automatically start logging when a certain parameter is met, I can see that I can set the logging to start at a certain throttle input/MAP value etc etc however I can't see how I can start the mapping with ECT. At the moment I am manually starting the logging once the engine is up to temp where there isn't any fuel adjustments taking place for cold start (with CLL off), I could set it to start logging once the engine sees a certain vacuum on light throttle however I usually want to capture all of the data from idle for a whole drive rather than just parts of the map. I see that with quick tune there is an ECT lockout so that it can't adjust fueling when the engine is cold - trying to replicate this with the normal logging. I also notice that each cell seems to have a maximum of 1000 samples - is there any way of increasing this or should I reduce the sampling rate? I have set the sampling rate quite high as there are some cells that I wanted to capture data for but aren't often in the cells - such as WOT. Thanks in advance!

I agree with the MAF being a better option, however the stock MAF is too restrictive for the airflow I am planning and running a MAP sensor tidies everything up.

Thanks for that, yeah it seems to work fine at the moment, might look to swap it to the MAP as the load axis - they are probably quite similar as 100% throttle would be max load, I guess its the part throttle bits as you mention might be a bit different. I will look at other VVTi maps in the basemaps and see if there are any which are known safe settings but use the MAP rather than TP.

Hi all, I have recently copied over the table for VVTi from the WRX V10 basemap as suggested, the table is linked to throttle position rather than load via the MAP KPa. Should I look to link to to the engine load or keep it linked to throttle position? The engine in question is a Toyota 1zz running NA, happy with the fueling and ignition at the moment but just want to make sure the VVTi is working as best as it can safely. Thanks in advance!

I was about to say, I put the USB cable on my Xtreme into the CAN port rather than the COM port - its the same connector, although not sure if its the same setup on some of the plug and play ECUs.

Many thanks, I have copied over the Monsoon ignition table into my current map, turned knock control off, I have also noticed that there is a setting that seemed to be advancing the ignition timing when the engine was cold/warming up - its retarding the timing top end which is correct but have zeroed out the timing advance when cold. I have kept the VVTi table as it is - there are some tuned valued in there from the file sent over from the engine it was tuned on. Next on the list to sort is the temperature gauge - its out by around 8 degrees C and also the speed source, will be looking to use an ABS sensor to get the direct signal (although its a 48 tooth ring) - DI1 speed source is already in MPH but I can't seem to be able to use it. I have set the calibration to 1.6 as there are around 1.6 km in 1 mile (the speed source arrives from the ABS ECU as 1hz = 1mph - rather than the frequency of the actual ABS ring). Looks like I will have to get the actual sensor data from the ABS ECU to be able to use traction control though.

Thank you, I am running high octane fuel as well which is why I was wondering why it was showing knock at quite retarded ignition timing, think it might be a false positive - I was thinking mid to high 20s would be about right for ignition advance as you mention - will turn the knock control off until I swap out to a better sensor and start to look at running boost. Should I update the VVTi table as well or just see how the monsoon ignition map runs first? I know the VVTi table isn't something you want to mess with etc. Thanks again for your help on this!

Its an NA engine, I will be turboing the new engine (fully forged) at some point but will initially also be run as an NA - will be going to a tuner when I do go turbo on the engine though. Just looking to get a solid map running on the car that might not be 100% fully maximising the engine but will still be a step up from the OEM ECU.

I am guessing there isn't a way to road tune the car using the narrowband knock sensor to get in the ball park? I know it won't be perfect without a dyno and better equipment but was able to get a rough idea where the limits were on the stock knock sensor and the PFC. The fueling is pretty much there now with the majority of cells being within a small margin of error vs the AFR table. I am tempted to copy over some of the tables from the basemaps for the ignition and VVTi - at least I know those values would be safer? I noticed that on the 350z map the ignition timing at the top end at full vacuum is at around 22 degrees whereas I have retarded my map back to around 10 at the top end - have I retarded the map too far? It's about the same on the Monsoon basemap, I am happy with my fueling table as well as idle, cold start etc even without closed loop enabled at the moment, should I: Copy the ignition table from the Monsoon basemap Copy the VVTi inlet table from the Storm black basemap or 350z basemap I will be getting a decent Bosch doughnut knock sensor - issue being is that its impossible to get to at the back of the engine, will be swapping it out when I put in the new engine - the current engine is simply a test bed as its high mileage so not too concerned if something happens as its a learning platform for me to get the Link all setup ready for the new engine. Is the knock logged if the knock control is turned off btw? Really sorry for all the questions, I know there was a marked step up in drivability between the stock ECU and the Power FC when tuned, currently the Link feels like its holding back a bit and I know its probably around ignition looking at the PFC map I have. I think my issue is slightly compounded by the fact that the engine is high mileage as well as the gearbox so there would be additional noises and resonance going through the engine which doesn't help!

Hi all, Currently doing some road tuning with my Link, I seem to keep coming up with an issue where the knock control keeps coming on and pulling timing, I have a feeling it might be a false positive as it coming on at sometimes only 10 degrees advance and I have pulled a lot of timing out of my map. I have attached a log of the last logged run, knock control is set to 7khz as I believe the 79mm bore knocks at 7.3khz, my MAP sensor is reading full vacuum in the high 90s on WOT - on WOT the fueling seemed to drop to around 10.5:1 however I am unable to tune these cells as the knock control was active so it doesn't seem to log it on the mixture map. Is there an issue with my knock protection settings? Does running rich trigger the knock control? Please also note that the speed isn't reading correctly and the coolant temp is around 7c too cold vs the sensor reading. Basically just need a hand trying to see if I am getting a false positive on the knock readings as I really don't think the engine is knocking - previous tune on the PFC has ignition advance at around 32 degrees with very little knock. Initial new basemap.pclr