M1tch
-
Posts
171 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by M1tch
-
-
2 hours ago, Confused said:
If your tablet works, then just grab a USB or Bluetooth keyboard for it
I personally use my Dell XPS13 laptop, it's small, light, and has great battery life and good screen.
Thanks for that, yeah I could look at getting a Bluetooth keyboard for it - it only has 1 USB port which I will need for mapping! I will see how well it runs on the tablet I have, its not the most powerful but seems to do the job at the moment.
-
Hi all,
Unsure which section of the forum I should aim this at but I felt tuning might be the best, I currently have a 10.1" Windows 10 tablet which I use for logging on my Power FC ECU I currently have which lets me swap out maps and make changes easier than using the PFC hand commander.
I have a Link Xtreme going in and was thinking that it might be better if I upgraded to a laptop - mainly due to the fact that the tablet is touch screen so not 100% perfect for more precise adjustments and also using an onscreen keyboard etc.
I was just wondering what everyone was using for a laptop used for tuning - I initially went for a tablet as the battery life is usually better than some laptops etc, just wondering if I should go for a laptop with a better battery life or aim for one with more RAM or maybe a better processor - I am unsure what is usually maxxed out when tuning/logging.
Thanks in advance!
-
6 minutes ago, Adamw said:
There is no auto-tune option for ignition timing. With a NA engine you are unlikely going to be knock limited and even if it where you would have to try pretty hard to break it. Copy the ignition map out of one of the 350Z base maps will be a nice conservative starting point.
Thank you - will copy the map over, good to know I can't do too much damage NA, will learn more via the HP Academy webinars etc coupled with some road tuning.
-
Hi all,
Just in the process of getting my Link ECU all wired in, have a few sensors still to arrive to convert the car over to using a MAP sensor etc. I am also having a look at the HP Academy webinars etc as it has quite a few guides on the various aspects of the Link in a real world scenario.
I can see that there is a quick tune option for fueling which should help to quickly adjust the fueling I have to the AFR targets (will be initially doing some road tuning to get an initial map), is there any functionality of having an auto ignition option at all? I will probably retard the ignition for the whole map initially so that its safer before logging data during some road tuning. I only ask as with my (now obsolete) Power FC I am using 'Copilot' which can do auto fueling (although not used) as well as auto spark which retards the ignition if knock levels are over a certain level.
I only ask as I used this option to pull back timing automatically (and write it to the map) if knock levels were at a certain limit which would then make the map slightly safer - I know that the Link ECU has knock protection which the Power FC doesn't have, but just wanted to ask.
I guess it might be a case of perhaps retarding the ignition slightly, sort the fueling out and then tweak the ignition slightly whilst checking knock levels?
I will be using the original high mileage engine initially to try out the ECU and tune it a bit, I am currently building a fully forged engine which I will initially run NA, then bolt a turbo on at a later date (will be going to a dyno for mapping when I do go turbo) - but gains NA aren't that big and am just looking to optimise/learn on the old engine first - not too worried if something fails.
Thanks in advance!
-
Just ordered an AEM 3.5 Bar MAP sensor and another temp sensor for the intake air temp - although it looks like this is taken care of already, its just the MAF signal that isn't being input (and guessing replaced with the wiring for the MAP).
Once this arrives I will plug in the MAP sensor and run with the MAF still in place for the intake temp reading initially.
I will also look to upgrade the knock sensor to a Bosch doughnut at some point soon as well - the current engine is stock and will be swapped out, will probably retard the ignition slightly before firing the car up but I think I am almost there for first start!
One of the things I am looking forward to is the closed loop fueling using the wideband - having all sorts of issues with the Power FC and closed loop as it uses the stock O2 sensors which are narrowband so not ideal for fine tuning.
-
18 hours ago, JMP said:
You need to use a map sensor for it to work. Your engine will have a 36-2 sensor which will work perfectly. It's a massive pain to change the trigger wheel on the crank if you wanted to change to a 36-4(timing cover off, timing chain off etc).
It's unusual that boomslang configured the loom to use AN Volt inputs rather than the dedicated analogue temperature inputs, hopefully they have wired in the pullup required when using the regular AN Volt inputs for temperature sensors. Adam's file is still setup for a 3bar Link MAP sensor connected to AN Volt 2, I've updated it with the configuration for your AEM 3.5bar sensor.
Your next steps are
- wire the map sensor to the AN Volt 2 and connect it to the plenum post-throttle body. I use the port on the plenum which used to go to the charcoal cannister VSV.- load the provided file and perform a TPS and MAP sensor calibration.
- do a base timing check with a timing light to ensure the ignition offset is correct (your map is set to 140, I find most 1zz's are around 145)
- Get the engine running by adjusting the "Master Fuel" number under fuel main if it doesn't fire straight up
- Ensure the AFR is in an acceptable range with your wideband (you have a wideband connected to the fury right?)
- Use the Cam Angle Test in the VVT Setup menu to confirm the Trigger 2 VVT Offset is set correctly (your map is set to 47.7, the last one I did ended up at 51)
- Configure the Trigger 1 and Trigger 2 Arming Threshold tables using data from the Trigger Scope
With all that done it will be ready to start tuning and you will have very few further issues.
On the 1zz's I've done, I use the "Toyota 1ZZ" Cam Control Mode combined with the "Toyota 2NZ VVTi" trigger mode. I've never used the "Toyota 2NZ-FE" Cam Control Mode your map was configured with.
Thanks for this, I will go through your suggestions, the harness has a 3 pin MAP sensor plug attached to it so will be getting one asap, I am currently running on a PowerFC which is quite old tech compared to the Link, will connect everything up this week and pin in my Bosch 4.9 wideband sensor (via the AEM X Gauge) to the CAN pins on the connector as well.
-
On 6/29/2018 at 9:24 AM, Adamw said:
Ok, tweaked version attached. You had most of it pretty good. I added the cal for the temp sensors, changed a few settings like VVT frequency and VVT target table was a bit messed up.
There seems to be some 1ZZ's with 36-2 crank and some with 36-4 on the crank. The 2NZ mode you have set in your map is for the 36-2 version. If you get erratic RPM when cranking do a triggerscope and we will confirm what yours has.
Thank you so much, will give it a try! I figured I was almost there - I can easily swap over the crank sensor type to see if it works better, am I correct to say that I need to get a MAP sensor plugged in before I can run the car though or did you find the setting for the MAF signal?
-
On 5/31/2018 at 7:49 AM, Adamw said:
Attach a copy of your pinout and a copy of your map, we'll take a look. Toyota temp sensors usually match the "Std Bosch NTC" calibration.
Hi there,
Sorry for the delay - missed the message! please find the files attached, one being my attempt to try and pin it to the Boomslang harness, the other being the pinout from the harness - unsure if I am able to use the MAF at all as I can't seem to find a pinout on the Boomslang for it - I have also included the OEM pins from the MR2 ECU for reference. Worth noting that the coolant temp is pinned to ANvolt3 it would seem - I can't seem to find an option to use a standard Bosch sensor in the drop down?
Link G4+ Xtreme 2000-2005 Toyota MR2 Spyder (1).pdf
1zz basemap - repinned to Boomslang.pclr
-
On 5/26/2018 at 9:00 PM, Adamw said:
That is probably fine/normal, any unused injector and ignition drives can be used as auxiliary outputs. You just need to go to Auxiliary outputs -fuel, then assign the correct function.
Thanks for that, I have contacted Boomslang who have sent me over a pinout for the loom, looks like they are using the unused ignition drivers to run the fan relays, just working on configuring the other pins etc which I think I have sorted, the issue I am now facing is trying to work out Cal tables for things like the water temp sensor which aren't listed in the dropdown of sensors - trying to track down the voltage/resistances vs temperature tables to configure those. I am also trying to trace through the MAF wiring on the stock loom, doesn't look like its being sent to the Link so will need to convert to a MAP sensor and IAT as separate inputs. Will then look to wire up the wideband O2 sensor into the CAN pins (its an AEM X gauge so has CAN outputs from the gauge) - getting there with the install.
-
11 hours ago, Adamw said:
If you look again at the link Brad provided that is exactly what one of the kits does. "Kit A" is the MAFless kit, so it is just basically an adapter to connect a IAT sensor to the MAF plug. Seems a little expensive for what it is but you can make something similar yourself if you are capable. Or just leave the MAF in place for IAT.
Ah I see, that makes sense, currently trying to sort out the plug and play Boomslang harness I have, seem to have things wired into injectors 5 and 6 on plug B for a 4 cylinder engine - guessing plug and play doesn't mean its going to be easy
-
2 hours ago, Brad Burnett said:
Who cares. Ditch the maf.
https://www.viscontituning.com/products/wrx-sti-speed-density-kit
you want the one for the GD(2002-2007)
Its a plug and play iat adaptor harness for subarus. same Maf
Thanks for the idea of that speed density adapter, I know that the 05 STI MAF is a direct swap in for our engines but would need a different MAF voltage curve (adjusted within the PFC), my PnP harness luckily already has a newer style AEM metal MAP sensor connector so that should plug in - might be able to simply wire in the IAT into the MAF wiring.
-
48 minutes ago, Brad Burnett said:
Really?
Its kind of hard to be unhappy with a Link ecu. They are one of the easiest ecu to use.
Once the MAF is replaced with a MAP sensor it shouldn't take much to get that thing fired up.
IF it will run on the PFC it will run on the link.
Hoping that this is the case, the plug and play loom already has the MAP sensor harness, just need to work out the correct pins to wire in the air temp - issue I am coming up against is that there are very limited options for preconfigured sensors that aren't off the shelf aftermarket replacements.
Was hoping that a Boomslang PnP harness would get me going, PFC is just plug in and go as its got a basemap already on it, the Link hasn't really got anything out the box that matches my engine even after using the help sheet to get the right triggers etc, without a custom table for voltage vs g/s for the stock MAF I am stuck.
-
I have now ordered an AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor and intake air temp sensor, need to now work out which part of the brand new PnP harness I need to cut up to fit the temp sensor - might leave the MAF in to get the temp from it and plug in the MAP.
So far not really too happy with the Link ECU, very few options for any cars running a MAF, unable to find any technical data to be able to build a calibration table for the stock MAF so having to upgrade everything to make it work.
-
Its under Motorsport > Launch control on the PClink software
-
55 minutes ago, JMP said:
add a map sensor to the system
I think this might be the only solution, cannot find any MAF calibration figures for voltage vs g/s anywhere - although I do have an airflow curve from the PFC. Will save up for the MAP sensor - ECU and wiring so far have cost twice the cost of the car.
-
Slight update on this, have been sent over a basemap to try and get the car fired up - still no luck, have tried to adjust the master fuel trim both plus and minus 10% to see if its that, it does almost fire, eg it catches for 1 rev but at the moment my Link ECU is pretty much a very heavy paperweight. Have swapped back to my PFC/stock ECU for the time being - have checked all the settings vs the help sheet and everything matches up, have tried both trigger types so I am now at a loss.
Worth noting that I have had this ECU for 6 months so far and can't get it to work
guessing it might be something to do with currently running the stock MAF and not a MAP sensor - will try and see if I can find if that's been setup etc.
Edit - looks like its been set to run a 3 bar MAP sensor, need to try and figure out the voltages for the stock MAF
-
Try a different earth point.
-
2 hours ago, Adamw said:
Some notes we have here suggest there may be various trigger patterns used on the 1ZZ so it may no always use the "1ZZ" trigger mode.
You can start by doing a log of you cranking it for a few seconds and attach that and a copy of your map here, that may give us some clues as to whats wrong.
Will do, I did swap to the other trigger type as well - will get it logged, also noticed that the fuel setup wasn't set to a return less system when I initially tried it - would this make a difference?
-
-
5 hours ago, Brad Burnett said:
Yes that is the connector. I have them in stock.
If you are only using the one CAN bus, I would use the H and L on connector B as it requires zero extra parts.
Thanks for that, I have a pin kit A and B so I should be able to grab some of the pins from those to add a few more pins into the PnP harness - will look into how to fit the pins etc, still not sure if I will be running more than one CAN bus, but I guess I could wire it into the plug now and then change it out if needed later.
-
2 hours ago, Brad Burnett said:
The AEM Xseries will out put CAN data on the AEMnet wires. Just connect them to CAN Hi and CAN Lo and follow the setup instructions in the help file. There is no need for an additional adaptor.
For connection to the ecu, you can either get a CAN F connector to connect the 2 can wires from the ecu to the CAN port next to the comms port, or you can just simply wire the 2 wires into CAN 2 which is on the B connector of the ecu.
Thanks for that, I noticed on the wiring diagram that there was the provision for a CAN input on connector B, will look to add in the wires from the gauge.
Do you know where I could get a CAN F connector from if I wanted to connect it up rather than hard wiring? Is there an off the shelf name for the type of connector? I guess I could put in a connector between the AEM wiring and the ECU though if wiring it directly into the B connector.
Guessing its this that I need - it can't be Link specific though can it?
-
Hi all,
I have an AEM X series wideband gauge with the latest Bosch 4.9LSU sensor, the gauge itself has output for 0-5v, RS232 and AEMnet (CANbus), I am just wondering how best to wire the wideband signal in, currently using a PnP harness for my car as I am using my Link Xtreme in a piggyback setup. Would I need to add the 0-5V signal to a pin in the current harness?
I notice that there is a LinkCAN accessory which seems to come with a sensor that I don't need - is there any way of simply buying the adaptor between the 2 which I am guessing plugs into the CANport on the ECU? Or can I simply add a connector onto the respective wires coming from the AEM gauge to then connect to the CANport on the ECU?
-
1 hour ago, ClintBHP said:
Let me know if we can help further were in the UK 01474 850666
Looks like the EML does come on then go off when you put the key in using the PnP harness I have - still having issues trying to get a basemap sorted on it, have followed the guide in the PClink to setup for the 1zz engine but not got it to fire yet
-
16 minutes ago, ClintBHP said:
In a piggy back situation I wire the old EML light into the Link on a DI so you know if there is something wrong with the OE ECU and then just wire the Dash to an Aux Out configured as the CEL from the link.
Thank you, I will check to see if my Link ECU does fire the EML or not - I am using a Boomsland plug and play harness so they might have already done this to ensure all OEM dash functions work.
Apologies if I sounded a bit blunt in my initial post, having invested in the Link ECU I didn't want it to cause issues with the road worthiness of the car as the project car is a road car rather than a track only car.
Pin install - quick sense check
in G4+
Posted
Hi all,
Just about to add in some additional pins into connector B to add in wideband O2 readings into the CAN inputs (its via an AEM X Gauge with CAN output).
Am I correct to say that I need to push the white tab on the side in to unlock the pins to then insert additional pins?
I have spare pins to be added in, how do I attach the wiring to the pin, do I solder and crimp or just crimp? How should I crimp the wire to the pin (I have a standard wire stripper/crimping tool, is that ok?)?