NinjaBoost Posted May 19, 2020 Report Share Posted May 19, 2020 Hello Everyone, I recently purchased an 04 JDM STI and got a CEL. Upon investigation I realised the ECU is not OEM but carries a board with the following markings: PCB Rev 1.2 Serial# 16816 I tried connecting it to the PC via the USB cable with the latest G4+ software and it says "the ECU is too old" How do I connect, check and reset the codes causing the CEL and further, can any Link ECU tuner perform future tuning (I understand there is a code of some sort required for tuning) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 19, 2020 Report Share Posted May 19, 2020 16816 is a G4. Download PC Link V4.10.2 from here: http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink V4.10.2.1784 Setup.exe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaBoost Posted May 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2020 Thank you. This worked, I can now see the error is related to a temp sensor, however, I'm being prompted to update the firmware then it seems I lose the connection. I've looked at the firmware update videos for the G4+... assuming the procedure is the same should I proceed with the update? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 21, 2020 Report Share Posted May 21, 2020 Once connected, can you click >help>ecu information and tell us what firmware it says it currently has. If its earlier than about 4.4 then it is a bit of a job to update. It might just be easier to give you an older software to check your error code in that case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaBoost Posted May 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 Hi finally got chance to attempt to identify the firmware version via the ecu information screen but it looses the connection and I get a response indicating version 0.0 When I go to the firmware updater, it reads the firmware as 4.10.2 (see attachement) The error code is visible at the top but I'm still unable to maintain a connection to the ECU What do you suggest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 28, 2020 Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 Sorry, I should have paid a bit more attention earlier. Your ECU is actually a Vipec V series (similar to Link G4 but with more features). Download the VTS software from here: https://www.vi-pec.com/software/vts-v4-10-2.1784 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaBoost Posted June 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2020 This worked perfectly. The car seems to have two IAT sensors configured... there's one just before the TB and another via a tap on the head. I cleared the code and all seems well but are there any benefits to doing this dual IAT setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 1, 2020 Report Share Posted June 1, 2020 1 hour ago, NinjaBoost said: there's one just before the TB and another via a tap on the head. That sounds odd? An air temp sensor on the head? I would turn that one off and just leave the one in the throttle body on/working. Dont forget to do a store after you change it. Does your Throttle position sensor work? There is a fault code in the pic above saying it is above the error value. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaBoost Posted June 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2020 Ok, I will turn off the additional IAT, just not sure how to identify which one the ECU is using for the IAT reference The TPS works. So, having cleared the codes I finally decided to do a WOT run with the car and strangely I hit the RPM limit at 4500 RPM and the log shows a jump from 4500 to 7800 which is the configured RPM limit. I'm thinking it may be trigger related but haven't gotten around to doing a Trigger Scope... sigh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 3, 2020 Report Share Posted June 3, 2020 6 hours ago, NinjaBoost said: Ok, I will turn off the additional IAT, just not sure how to identify which one the ECU is using for the IAT reference Thats the problem, the ecu wouldnt have known which one to use either. You can work out which is which by unplugging one and seeing which one shows an error in the software. 6 hours ago, NinjaBoost said: So, having cleared the codes I finally decided to do a WOT run with the car and strangely I hit the RPM limit at 4500 RPM and the log shows a jump from 4500 to 7800 which is the configured RPM limit. I'm thinking it may be trigger related but haven't gotten around to doing a Trigger Scope... sigh! This ecu is from an era before ecu's had triggerscopes... If its using the subaru V7-10 JDM trigger mode then you can try setting the trigger 2 lockout to about 4000RPM and that will make the ecu ignore the cam sensor above that. That was sometimes needed to solve trigger issues on some models that had a lot of movement in the cam drive system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaBoost Posted June 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 Finally got this sorted, turned out to be a faulty Cam sensor. The CEL comes up ever so often and it's always Voltage above High value on the MAP, IAT and TPS I think I't may be best to have the car rewired as I tested the Boost Solenoid for voltage and got 12v from both terminals and my speed sensor works intermittently. I swear, I didn't anticipate these issues and figured finding the link in there was a blessing but with what seems to be bad wiring... IDK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 17, 2020 Report Share Posted June 17, 2020 3 hours ago, NinjaBoost said: The CEL comes up ever so often and it's always Voltage above High value on the MAP, IAT and TPS The only thing in common with those 3 would be sensor ground, so inspect the sensor ground or run a new one. 3 hours ago, NinjaBoost said: I think I't may be best to have the car rewired as I tested the Boost Solenoid for voltage and got 12v from both terminals and my speed sensor works intermittently. That would be normal to have 12V on both sides of the solenoid when it is off. If you set the boost aux to "Test on" then you should see one of those wires go to ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaBoost Posted June 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 On 6/16/2020 at 8:30 PM, Adamw said: The only thing in common with those 3 would be sensor ground, so inspect the sensor ground or run a new one. That would be normal to have 12V on both sides of the solenoid when it is off. If you set the boost aux to "Test on" then you should see one of those wires go to ground. Hey man, I must again thank your for your guidance. Had to replace the sensor ground, also noticed a burnt AC fan connector and replaced that as well. Any further electrical problems and I'd replace the entire harness. I believe the car is now ready to be tuned with all parameters set correctly. The only thing I can find documentation on is how to setup knock control for this version ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 5 hours ago, NinjaBoost said: The only thing I can find documentation on is how to setup knock control for this version ECU. Im pretty sure you have there a V44 based plug-in which didnt have knock control on-board. It could do knock control but needed an external knock amplifier device. https://www.vi-pec.com/techdata/vipecdigitalknockamplifier.pdf If you go to the knock control menu in the software then >knock setup>knock mode have a look at what options that gives you. If it says "knk internal" in the list then you have onboard knock control, if it says "DI knk interface" only then it needs the external amplifier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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