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MR2 RacerX COP No RPM Issue


TurboMR2

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Hello,

I finally got my car all put together with a Gen 2 3SGTE, Coil on Plug setup from racerx Fabrication. This kit uses two cherry hall sensors with a single tooth cam and 12 tooth crank trigger.  I have the crank sensor wired into the Trig1 pin on my link ecu and the cam sensor wired into Trig2. I cannot get the ECU to recognize the RPM signal from the crank.

I originally had the pull-up sensor wired into the harness, but in the process of troubleshooting I removed the resistor and added the pullup functionality in the ECU. The sensor is receiving 12V.  I verified through the trigger scope that the output voltage of the crank sensor is between 0 and 0.45V. I can't figure this one out. I attached my map to view.

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MR2 Gen 2 Altered Map 1.pclx

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59 minutes ago, Adamw said:

Can you attach a triggerscope log.  

Do you mean 4.5V?  Because 0.45V isnt right.  

No I meant 0.45 V. I knew it was a problem. But shouldn't the pull-up feature change that? I'm not sure I understand how it all works. I'm not home right now but I will post it once I get home and have some time with the car.

 

Thanks

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So, I think I figured it out after spending hours on it and ultimately pulling out my harness and redoing a portion of it. The problem was that I was using a 12V source instead of the 5V. I also changed it to sensor ground instead of chassis ground. This fixed it. However, in the midst of all this I readjusted my sensor and went in too far on the cam sensor and sheared the shaft coming from the cam. So until my new part comes in, it won't be running. But, the crank is working! I will leave another update once I fix my cam because I know a lot of MR2 guys want to run this, and there isn't a lot of info out there. 

image.png.e8b9e2c7c5e87fb082b05a6d2c9db6fc.png

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5 hours ago, TurboMR2 said:

The problem was that I was using a 12V source instead of the 5V.

Those sensors work with anything from 5-24V.  So that is likely not your problem.  

 

5 hours ago, TurboMR2 said:

I also changed it to sensor ground instead of chassis ground.

Sensor ground is correct, but it is unlikely chassis ground would have prevented any signal coming through.

 

So it sounds more like something wasnt originally connected correctly and you have either changed it or disturbed it.  

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