RX7 FD G4X Fury Wire-in FFE Mag Trigger Set up

[RX7Joe92]

Hello,

I have a Link Fury G4X plug in that I have just installed in my car, this is a 13B with large streetport, single turbo, IG1A coils, 725/220 ID injectors. I actually swapped from an Adaptronic ECU on which the car was running (albeit badly) so I copied over a lot of the settings into the new Link.

It has an FFE 36-1 Reluctor / Mag trigger wheel, this thing: https://fullfunctioneng.com/product/fd-trigger-mag/

I was attempting a first start yesterday, and after much messing around with the base map, adding and taking away more fuel it turns out it's the trigger settings. I was talking to a friend who had similar issues, and he suggested just putting 77 in the trigger calibration (set base timing function). And it fired up straight away, my friend said he had similar issues and ultimately reverted to the stock trigger. I found this unusual as in the Adaptronic on the running engine the offset was -5, which is as per links base map.

So my question is has anybody experienced this before?

As far as I understand this should have just worked with the same offset as was in the Adaptronic, I also tried 65 and 80 and the car wouldn't start.

I need to buy a timing light to check this properly now

Timing settings are attached, trigger 2 not connected and set to sync mode: none

[Gflex]

Hi RX7Joe92,

Not sure if this will help out - I recently installed an FFE 36-2-2-2 kit with their Hall sensor and I actually ended up with a Trigger Offset of 149 degrees to align L1 with the 0 degree mark on the wheel.

Are you getting an RPM signal at least?

Other than that, you'll need timing light to confirm and accurately setup the Trigger Offset.

Cheers,

Grant

 

 

[Adamw]

Your scope and settings look fine.  What makes you think the trigger offset is meant to be -5?  The trigger offset is the angular distance from the sync tooth to TDC#1.  In your case the sync tooth set to 1 means the sync tooth is the first tooth after the gap.  

You need to check this with a timing light and also if you are running leading wasted ign mode you need to confirm timing on the trailing plugs as well, because it will still run with the trailing 180 out.  

[RX7Joe92]

Thanks for the responses

Yes RPM is reading, I'm in direct fire mode. I was expecting it to be 5 as that's what it was on the adaptronic.

I've got a timing light now, I followed the procedure as per the link manual, set ignition split table to all -20, lock ign timing to 0, timing light on T1 plug. I 

On the FFE wheel I have about 5 marks, I have no idea what any of them are, there is no information of the FFE website, So I made the assumption that the one with the red paint on it was 20 ATDC. The missing tooth is miles (like 120*) away from all the marks. Can anyone confirm this? OK I'm pinging an email to them now.

I adjusted the offset on cranking until it was perfect, which was +78 offset at 0 lock timing.

Happy days - car starts fine on base map, so with the next part of the procedure to do at 2000 rpm, the mark was miles away from the pin, like an inch and a half, made some adjustments but nothing noticeable happened, so I left it, can't be that far out surely? - I was expecting it to be reasonably close from the off as if was adjusted on cranking.

Is there another setting for when the car is running, or could it be applying some ignition adjustments still? I had the split table still set to -20 and lock ignition at 0

[Adamw]

Confirm which is the TDC mark with FFE.  Then check timing with split at zero and timing locked at zero.  All 4 plugs should be firing at zero (at any RPM) with this set up when timing is locked.  If there is a small amount of drift (say less than a few degrees) then this can be compensated with the delay setting, if it is more than say 5 deg drift something else is wrong.

[RX7Joe92]

ok so instead of -20 try it with 0?

The current 78 makes sense to me since the sync tooth is 1 and the marks are miles away from the missing teeth, so the dirft is way above 5 deg

I wasn't expecting a big number as this worked on my previous ECU with out ay changes to the base map

[Adamw]

11 hours ago, RX7Joe92 said:

ok so instead of -20 try it with 0?

Since you have a TDC mark yes, it would be best to lock timing at zero and set the split to zero for the offset calibration.  

The instructions in the help file that suggest using a -20 split is because most 13B's only had a 20ATDC timing mark on the pulley - and the engine wouldnt run with the leading at -20 so it was best to confirm on the trailing using the -20 split.

[RX7Joe92]

Finally got this resolved. Turns out I had wired up the front rotor coils as rear rotor and vise versa

Swapped leads around and changed setting to 90 degrees and car ran sweet.

For a short period, now onto the next problem!

Thanks for all the replies