kaptainballistik Posted November 29, 2021 Report Share Posted November 29, 2021 20 hours ago, Krystian said: I know I need oscilloscope for that but I dont have one in my garage. I measured mv on the cable that going to injector. On bad air fuel is 105mv on restart and good air fuel is 115mv but laptop showing similar injectors ms also car had same idle rpm but mv at injector wires was different Bear with me here.... Before you start the car, Get a GOOD Digital voltmeter and check the voltage at the battery on the terminals ( Not the battery lugs.. the terminals). Second, does it have a consistent voltage after starting (Is it the same when its got bad A/R or good A/R) And .... Is your fan controller working fine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krystian Posted November 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2021 54 minutes ago, kaptainballistik said: Bear with me here.... Before you start the car, Get a GOOD Digital voltmeter and check the voltage at the battery on the terminals ( Not the battery lugs.. the terminals). Second, does it have a consistent voltage after starting (Is it the same when its got bad A/R or good A/R) And .... Is your fan controller working fine? I will check that tonight and post the results. Fan is turning on whenever engine reach 94C so look to work fine. I was thinking before that fan might make problems but whenever car has bad air fuel I can drive for hours and still has bad air fuel until I turn the car off and back on. I will measure voltage later, I might as well change alternator, I have another one in my garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaptainballistik Posted November 30, 2021 Report Share Posted November 30, 2021 4 hours ago, Krystian said: I will check that tonight and post the results. Fan is turning on whenever engine reach 94C so look to work fine. I was thinking before that fan might make problems but whenever car has bad air fuel I can drive for hours and still has bad air fuel until I turn the car off and back on. I will measure voltage later, I might as well change alternator, I have another one in my garage. That is what I'm thinking.... my VR4 was not charging sometimes with a replacement ECU. ( Albeit with the Factory ECU and a SMC...) Does the EVO8 control the Charge rate with the ECU in any way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krystian Posted December 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2021 Hello everybody. I just want to thank everyone that tried to help me. The problem with air fuel change is still active. I installed new alternator I checked voltage to the fuel pumps on good and bad(lean) air fuels. Voltage is the same. I installed fuel pressure sensor as it was strongly advised by Adam Walmsley, but the fuel pressure was not the problem. I am including logs on good and bad air fuel. I took the car to the professional shop that work only on evo's and they tried to tune it than they check and tried to find the problem, they charged me 600$ dollars for not finding the problem. They are pretty sure sure that the ecu is the problem. Please look at those loggers but I think my only option is to send the ecu to the link. PC Datalog - 2021-12-11 8;09;55 pm rich pull.llgx PC Datalog - 2021-12-11 8;14;24 pm lean pull.llgx On 11/28/2021 at 6:11 PM, Adamw said: How about if air temp had changed but the sensor was showing the temp was the same? In one of your logs the IAT showed 1degC at 280kpa which is why I suggested you should validate it. It is a pretty simple test to dip the sensor in a cup of ice water and a cup of boiling water to confirm. Because it is not fuel pressure that matters - you need to know what differential pressure is - this is the difference in pressure between the top of the injector and the bottom of the injector. Looking at a gauge on the regulator only gives you half the picture. Here are the 2 loggers with fuel pressure sensor installed. Problem is still there, I changed alternator. Problem is most likely ECU PC Datalog - 2021-12-11 8;09;55 pm rich pull.llgx PC Datalog - 2021-12-11 8;14;24 pm lean pull.llgx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducie54 Posted December 12, 2021 Report Share Posted December 12, 2021 If possible try a extra jumper lead from the battery negative to the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krystian Posted December 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2021 1 hour ago, Ducie54 said: If possible try a extra jumper lead from the battery negative to the block. I did it already. Still same problem. I can drive the car for hours with good air fuel than when I restart the car it has bad air fuel ( lean) and it stays lean for hours until I restart the car again. Or the other way around. Voltage to pumps is good. Voltage by alternator and battery is good. Fuel pressure is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krystian Posted December 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2021 Guys UPDATE!! I changed to oem ecu and problem not there, than I switch to my old autronic ecu and problem not there also so I put back my link g4x ecu and problem is there so it means ecu is bad. To be 100% sure I found the guy that is running link g4+ not g4x on same car so we switched his ecu to my car and we changed couple settings to make it run and problem is not there!!! I dont know if only my ecu was bad or all g4x for evo but I did returned it to the place where I purchased it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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