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m52 obd1 ign test not working


Camjt1

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So my ignition coil test was working then I started configuring the ecu and when I was finished the ignition test wouldn't work any more?.  Does any one knows if some how getting the configuration wrong would cause this?   I'm beyond frustrated and would just like to get my care running.   I have checked all my wiring and cant find an issue.  Also should I be able to see my cam signal in logging?   Im not seeing  signal but ive have tested my sensor, it ohms out ok however I do not have and oscilloscope to properly check.

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Note there are several different "OBD1" pinouts.  Only a loom from a M50TU vanos engine or a S50US have the correct pinout.  

Did you change the cam sensor to the M50 vanos one?  Are your ignition coils the same 3 wire dumb coils like a M50?

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I did make sure to use a m50tu harness and switch to m50 cam sensor.    So I should be able to monitor the cam signal correct?  I'm new to stand to link and just standalones in general.  So I'm still very much learning how to do log and figure out how to pull up correct parameters to log.      Also its very likely im missing something when checking my wires.    I'm going to dig into more this weekend    but mainly just trying to make sure that putting in the wrong configuration  when setting everything up wouldn't damage the ecu somehow?    Like falling edge or rising edge.   I found different answers every where. 

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To see the cam and crank signals you need to use the trigger scope.  >ecu controls>triggerscope.  Click the capture button while the engine is cranking.  

 

1 hour ago, Camjt1 said:

So I'm still very much learning how to do log and figure out how to pull up correct parameters to log. 

If you do a PC log everything is logged.  If you havent already I suggest you load one of the "1920 x 1080" or "1366 x 768" layouts as these have a much wider range of parameters shown on each page.  

 

1 hour ago, Camjt1 said:

but mainly just trying to make sure that putting in the wrong configuration  when setting everything up wouldn't damage the ecu somehow?    Like falling edge or rising edge.

Unlikely to damage anything.  You can fry coils etc but unlikely to damage the ecu.  

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  • 1 year later...

Hello, I seem to be having the same issue here. I tried to set up my timing and was getting no spark. When I use the test coil function, none of the coils are firing. 

I've checked the wiring and all seems to be OK, I have 12v to the coil, good earth and continuity from coil plug to the correct ecu pin in the plug. 

Any help with this please? Could it be a wrong setting in the ecu? 

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I have an e36 m52b25 with turbo. I am using the m50 pnp ecu, I repinned the ecu plug to suit the ecu using the pinout in the booklet as a guide. I have stock coils which worked on another ecu. 

I have gone through and managed to get all sensors to work. Ect, iat, tps, crank and a hall effect cam sensor. And the PClink scope is showing a good signal.  

So I went to set the base timing and I am not getting a flash with the timing light. So I've tried using the test function to see if the coil fires and still no light. I removed the coil and plug to be able to see and there is no spark. I have checked and I have 12v at the green wire on coil plug, earth is good and continuity is good back to the ecu. I am stuck now as I don't see what else it could be. 

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I would first unplug the ecu and check on the loom plug that none of the large terminals have pushed back inside the housing, it is very common for the large cavities to be damaged on disassembly on those connectors. 

If they all look ok then with ECU and Cyl 1 coil unplugged, can you measure resistance from the coil plug pin marked "-" (will be left hand side looking into the loom plug), back to pin 50 on the ecu connector.  Check the wire colour is the same at both ends too.  

 

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Do you have a solid ground on pin 55?  This is the main high current ignitor ground.

If that looks ok I think the next thing I would do is pull the ecu out of the car and test on the bench.  You need 12V on pin 54, Ground on 55 and 28.  Then set up Ign test on Ign 1 and check with an LED test light (one side to pin 50, other side to +12V).  You may possibly need a pull-up resistor or light bulb connected as im not sure if the LED test light would be enough to pull it up.  

 

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Ah right, pin 55, that might be the problem. I will check tonight but from what I remember I had two wires confused as they're both brown. I had to move the wire from pin 55 to 38 I think? For the main relay control. And I must have left 55 empty. 

I will double check this and let you know, thanks for the help! 

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Ok so, turns out I must have missed pin 55 as it was still the standard pinout for oxygen sensor heater ground. I've sorted that out, now 55 has a good ground and I am getting spark! Good times. Thanks for the help again! 

Only now, I am trying to set up the trigger offset and I cannot see the tdc timing mark. I have marked it at tdc but its not visible with the timing light. I have tried 0 and 10 deg so far. Is this normal? Should I try bigger values? I am getting back fire when I put the fuel pump fuse back in. 

Edit:

I have managed to set the base timing, but there is still no start. Is it possible that it's a whole revolution out? The timing mark lines up at a 29deg offset. Should I try 389deg? 

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Yes, I bought a new m50 cam sensor and looking at the scope, I believe both cam and crank sensors are reading correctly.

I have tried -331 for trigger offset as well but still no start.

Do you think maybe its the fuelling now that's not right? I have bmw "pink" injectors which are 231cc I think. I have adjusted the dead time to what I could find online but not sure what the master fuel should be set to.

crank1.llgx TriggerScopeLogcrank.llgx

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Did you change any settings between those two logs?

In that trigger scope it doesnt look happy at all, you can see from the trigger 1 state runtime the ecu started looking for the the missing tooth at about tooth#56 (instead of 58), that would mean either the settings were wrong at that time or it had seen 2 "extra teeth" such as spikes of electrical noise due to some other wiring issue.  The cam sensor is not working at all in the trigger scope either.  

But in the cranking log the trigger looks like it was ok, happy with the tooth count and trigger 2 says it has a signal too.  

 

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You had 20ms of pw in the cranking log so the ecu is commanding enough fuel to at least show some signs of life.  That doesnt mean there is fuel pressure etc though.  

A squirt of starter fluid will confirm if you have a fuel issue or not.  

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Ok I have tried starting fluid and it didn't make much difference, so I don't think it's a fuel issue. Also I've tested the fuel pressure before and had around 45psi if I remember correctly.

I have set up trigger 2 correctly now so it is reading the cam position.

Is there anything else that looks off to you in this log that might stop it from starting? I am having an absolute nightmare with this car.

crank2.llgx

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8 hours ago, Mikeonabike94 said:

I am having an absolute nightmare with this car.

Hence the note on our web page "This ECU only works with the Engine Code M50TUB25".  In the correct application this would plug straight in and start.  It is not easy trying to diagnose users wiring and config issues on a application we have no info on.  

 

The ecu is commanding fuel and dwell in the log so that is all that should be needed to run - or at least give some signs of life if fueling or timing are a long way off.   The starter fluid test really eliminates fuel concerns so assuming the engine is a known runner, then you really need to look closer at spark.  Timing is off, 360 out, spark is disappearing under cylinder pressure due to some wiring issue, or something along those lines.  

 

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