bentot Posted March 25, 2022 Report Share Posted March 25, 2022 Hello, New to this standalone ECU world. I'm trying to run my aeromotive 16306 fuel pump controller and wired it to the fuel pump controller relay output on the G4X for a 300ZX. What option do I need to pick and send power on the pump controller? I need to send it a +12 signal to turn on unit. I wired it to pin 18 as per manual or do I need to use a different aux? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 26, 2022 Report Share Posted March 26, 2022 Do you want to just turn it on/off or do variable speed too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentot Posted March 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 Just on and off. I had it hardwired before with the a 12v trigger when the key is on. Thought I'd wire it to the G4X and probably more safer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash Bell Posted March 27, 2022 Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 Assuming its only triggering the the fuel pump controller with 12v signal (no high load) open up Fuel Pump Control and select standard as the fuel pump control method, then check that the relay output is on the correct output which should be inj7 (pin 18 as the document lists) set the active state to high as you want it to output 12v instead of low (used for grounding a control side of a relay) set set prime time to something like 3 seconds as a start and see how you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 27, 2022 Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 I would suggest trying Aux 2 pin 104 or Aux 5 pin 35 as these have a built in 12V pull-up. The injector drives dont have a pull-up so wont give a 12V output. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentot Posted March 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 So I took a multimeter to Inj7 connection and at high active state is only giving .8v and low state is .5v. So I moved on and switched it to Aux2 and did the same settings. This time I'm getting +12v for signal which is what I needed. But when I tested the trigger it would try to run the pump controller but would die instantly. I'm guessing the pump controller pulls a high load at the start and the Aux2 trigger couldn't provide it? The 3 LED lights flashes simultaneously on the pump controller which means there is interruption somewhere I think. But if I wire it back to my original ignition trigger the controller works perfectly. 4 minutes ago, Adamw said: I would suggest trying Aux 2 pin 104 or Aux 5 pin 35 as these have a built in 12V pull-up. The injector drives dont have a pull-up so wont give a 12V output. I guess I was typing when you posted the answer. Yeah I tried that but no luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 27, 2022 Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 Yeah the Aux outputs have 1.5Kohm pull-ups so they arent going to drive much load. You would expect a device like that would only be logic level though and wouldnt need any current. What does the multimleter show on the pump controller ign terminal with the aux in test mode high state? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentot Posted April 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2022 Sorry for the delay. Didn't have time to check on this until today. The pump controller ign terminal shows 11.97v when I turn the key to the on position. Battery voltage is 12.4v on the link screen. I'm guessing I have to drive the controller to switch on with a relay so it stays running when ecu gets power? Kinda sucks but it's a safer way than having power on all the time on the pump controller when key is on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 5, 2022 Report Share Posted April 5, 2022 So if there is 11.97V on the IGN terminal, why isnt the pump running? I thought thats what it wanted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentot Posted April 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2022 Not sure why. Maybe the amp draw is higher than what the ECU can provide? I reread the manual and I couldn't fine anything about amp draw on the switch. I tried using the ignition signal I had before and it works fine. Just wouldn't start on the aux sources from the ECU even though the sources are at 12v. Couldn't fine anything on the internet as well about them being wired to a standalone. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/TB_302_FPSCTroubleShooting.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwi3s93-gP32AhVYKDQIHfwvDWkQFnoECG0QAQ&usg=AOvVaw13d-uk0gEBn09UL4_nvjHt Found this on. I guess I'll run it on a relay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 5, 2022 Report Share Posted April 5, 2022 That doc says as long as the IGN terminal has more than 9V it should work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentot Posted April 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2022 Not sure why it doesn't work. I tried a relay as well and it still didn't work. I decided to just run it through an ignition source and it's fine. Something doesn't add up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentot Posted April 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2022 Ok... did some more troubleshooting. I wired the ECU trigger to FPC ign terminal again and took a reading. Aux 2 shows 11.8v with no load. As soon as I connect it to the FPC voltage drops to 5v. Then I get flashing lights on the FPC which indicates low voltage. I have it wired but I still had to use a relay but it works. 86 - ECU set as low side 85 - Ignition Wire 87 - Ignition Terminal on the FPC 30 - Battery Tested and cycled a few times and it seems to work properly. Now just need to start the car and see if it holds power, which it should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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