givemethelasagna Posted June 21, 2022 Report Share Posted June 21, 2022 Hi, Thanks in advance for taking the time to read this; this is my first endeavor into standalone ecu stuff so it shouldn't be a surprise that even after weeks of research i'm still running into problems. Following the setup instructions in the installation manual, I get "device not detected" when searching on CAN 1 - CAN 2 on the R53 is used for the factory cluster and other stuffs At the Deutsch connector to the CAN Lambda module: 12 volt = 12.80v; CAN Low = 0.20v; CAN High = 1.20v; Ground is good. 12 volt is wired according to recommended diagram in installation manual Measuring across the CAN pins in the connector, i get an even 60 ohms. CAN1 Errors: Acknowledge Error, Error Passive, Bus Warning Transmit Error Counter: 136 CAN DIG #1 State = ON Attached is the base configuration file from PCLink with my attempted CAN setup per the provided instructions. BMW Mini R53 G4+ Xtreme Plugin_CMB062022_forumpost.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 21, 2022 Report Share Posted June 21, 2022 That would suggest something wrong with the CAN wiring. You should have something a little less than 2.5V on CAN low, and a bit above 2.5V on CAN high. Are you using a CAN PCB cable? Possibly pinned wrong in the CANF? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
givemethelasagna Posted June 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2022 I am using a CAN PCB cable with the solder-style connector; wired in accordance to this diagram. Initially, I had CAN Low on pin 2 which resulted in 120 ohms across the two. I purchased 20awg wire on amazon and twisted it myself; could it be due to an improper twist or spec? The more I looked i came to that conclusion myself, and purchased 50 feet of pre-twisted wire here: https://store.ctr-electronics.com/can-bus-cable/ Thanks for the quick reply! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 21, 2022 Report Share Posted June 21, 2022 No twist wont have any effect when there is little electrical noise around. Can you give us a photo inside the back of the CANF connector. givemethelasagna 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
givemethelasagna Posted June 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2022 4 photos attached. My soldering isn't the prettiest, but the pins do not bridge to eachother as far as i can tell. Leftover solder on pin #2 per my previous mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 21, 2022 Report Share Posted June 21, 2022 I cant quite tell from those photos. Are you sure you are on pin 3 & 4? This pic is looking down the wires towards the solder cups: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
givemethelasagna Posted June 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2022 Pretty sure I'm looking at this correctly... :/ After it sitting for a day, I now get 2.46 volts on both CAN High and CAN Low as well Still the same result in PCLink, all errors appear after clicking "Apply" in this window. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 21, 2022 Report Share Posted June 21, 2022 Can you pull the CANPCB cable out of the ECU, Leave the complete CAN loom plugged in to the CANPCB. Unplug the CAN Lambda. Measure continuity from the green pin at the DTM connector to the green wire in the white JST plug at the ecu end, then do the same with white and also check for continuity between white and green. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
givemethelasagna Posted June 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2022 Between the DTM and JST connectors: CAN Low = 1.0 ohm; CAN High = 1.0 ohm Across High and Low at the DTM connector: 119.1 ohms Same, but at the JST connnector: 119.4 ohms JST connector with CAN Lambda plugged in: 119.2 ohms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 22, 2022 Report Share Posted June 22, 2022 With CAN plug at ecu end unplugged, but ign on and CAN lambda powered up (engine not running), is the sensor getting hot? givemethelasagna 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
givemethelasagna Posted June 22, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2022 I left the car in on with my can bus disconnected at the ecu CANF connector for 10 minutes, and the sensor is still cold to the touch. With the ignition on, confirmed 12.7 volts at the DTM connector again How screwed am I? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 22, 2022 Report Share Posted June 22, 2022 With no CAN the controller should switch the heater on after 15 seconds to try to protect the sensor. So it should be at least pretty warm to the touch after 10mins. So it suggests there is no power. Can you check power supply by backprobing with pins or similar the Lambda side of the DTM4 connector - like my pic below. I have for example seen some people assemble the DTM wrong so the terminals push back out and lose contact when you click the plug together. givemethelasagna 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
givemethelasagna Posted June 22, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2022 So... I made a silly mistake that I should've noticed quite a while ago. In the same way i goofed up the CAN Low pin in the CANF connector, I had the entire DTM connector pinout mirrored (shown in photos). Once fixed it was immediately detected and started providing data! Thank you for your time, sorry to have wasted it. Is there any way to pitch in to the coffee fund? <3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.