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Z32TT Start, runs for few seconds then dies.


sns00

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Hello everyone, a bit of a backstory: last summer I was trying to dial in the fuel table, which was difficult, however the engine ran and stayed running, despite for a pesky misfire I couldn't track... On October I did a intake pressure test, and found lots of leaks; one in IACV, another on a weld bead through a pin hole on the turbo out pipe for right side, leaking OEM boost sensor, leaking fitting on boost gauge(aftermarket) and an uncapped fitting on the inter cooler piping.

Remedied all those, however, the engine wont stay running for more than 6 to 8 seconds, starting became difficult after temperatures dropped below 80F, I still had some summer fuel blend in the tank, after much fiddling  trying to get it to stay running without success drained the remaining summer blend, today I got a fresh winter blend fuel. It starts almost every time but it wont stay running on its own; any throttle kills the engine.

FYI, I ditched the last VE table I had, it looked horrible (due to boost leaks). Im not sure which way to go, lack of fuel or too much, or some silly setting I missed... Logs are over 400kb at less than 30 seconds, cfg file is 462kb...

About the application: Z32 TT, stock turbos, 650cc injectors.

PS: Link for cfg https://www.dropbox.com/s/ow774xalhzf03cv/Start-NoRun_cfg.pclx?dl=0

Log1 https://www.dropbox.com/s/9i19ox6u0zr5y0i/PC Datalog - 2023-02-16 3%3B41%3B49 pm.llgx?dl=0

Log2 https://www.dropbox.com/s/d7lv0du5g4cksmd/PC Datalog - 2023-02-16 4%3B30%3B34 pm.llgx?dl=0

Log3 https://www.dropbox.com/s/vk5hc01c5tc9rh2/PC Datalog - 2023-02-16 5%3B35%3B40 pm.llgx?dl=0

Log4 https://www.dropbox.com/s/nwbg5dmnl9zj4qz/PC Datalog - 2023-02-16 5%3B54%3B23 pm.llgx?dl=0

Edited by sns00
Found a file hosting solution for logs and calib.
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Trigger scopes, as requested. The issue seem to be the sensor gap changed (I must've done it last year while working on the intake/ignition systems); less than 1mm gap is no good, even 0.8mm register issues; 1mm+ gap yields no trigger errors at all, the second and third captures the gap is over 1mm, the third capture is to confirm  theres no trigger errors.

How come signal for T2 sync tooth does not show up on second and third captures?

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/up2hzzyvjph1tys/TriggerScopeLog_GapAdj-0.75.llgx?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mh69548foq2123o/TriggerScopeLog_GapAdj-1.00.llgx?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0cxd53rats20d98/TriggerScopeLog_GapAdj-1.00%232.llgx?dl=0

 

Thanks Adam.

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A hall sensor should not be sensitive to the air gap at all.  trigger 1 looks fine in all of those scopes, Trigger 2 doesnt.  Even the capture where trig 2 is working it looks pretty borderline.  So you need to investigate that,  possibly a flaky ground connection or the sensor is failing. 

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  • 1 month later...
On 2/21/2023 at 1:31 PM, sns00 said:

Confirmed my wiring is good and did a few more trigger captures; Im sending the sensor to the vendor for testing, will update thread once I hear back and have another sensor...

OK, short version; got off the phone with Specialty Z, my sensor tested good on another Z32 with a Haltech ECU. I was told another local customer to Specialty Z has the same issues with this trigger running a Link, I dont know the specifics of vehicle model or engine, but is a Nissan.

Also, the rep got someone else with misfire issues when the engine warmed up to share their settings to compare (asked if the person solved the issue, and answer is yes); the following are some of the settings (bear in mind, this is a hall sensor, 24+1 kit...):

Trigger Type=multitooth/missing; T1 edge= rising; Sync tooth=17; T2 edge= rising.

 

Will update on new developments.

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It is not an ecu settings issue.  Sync tooth and edge will have no influence, sync edge is only used for VVT and both rising and falling edges are fine for hall sensors with trigger wheels where the teeth are all the same size. 

As I have already said above your problem is the disappearing trigger 2 signal.  The trigger scope hardware is independent of the ecu, so when you have both the scope showing no signal and the ecu saying there is no signal, then you can be pretty confident there is no signal reaching the ecu.  

The sensor for whatever reason is not seeing the single sync magnet of the opposite magnetic pole.  Whether it is a magnet issue, alignment issue, wiring issue or sensor issue you will have to try to eliminate yourself.  If the alignment looks good and there is nothing odd going on like runout of the wheel or cam end-float etc, then I would remove that trigger wheel so you can test outside of the engine underneath the sensor without cranking etc.  I would also get another small rare earth magnet and check the north and south magnets have still have equal pull/push - niobium magnets can demagnetize themselves at quite low temperatures around ~80°C. 

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In my previous post, I was simply giving a short version account of the phone call with SZ; that being said, it is NOT fixed.

Already tried several configurations with old hall sensor before sending it out, same result.

Waiting on the sensor to return (asked for a new sensor), will do the free air test on the new hall sensor; tested the trigger wheel, all magnets work, used three different neodymium magnets for testing and later a paper clip. Working on a rig to test the hall sensor off engine.

 

Edited by sns00
Found answer to a question.
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