Jump to content

Link G3 and Crank and Cam Sensors in Subaru


Kim Abraham

Recommended Posts

Hi, I'm doing a 2.5 Sti install in a 97 GF8 Sti (JDM wiring) using your G3 with the adapter all set up for the JDM wiring. The 2.5 motor has been fitted with 01 heads (non avcs) and non tumbler Sti manifold. I would like to use the 01 cam pulleys which means using the 01 sensors, I noticed the 2.5 crank angle pulley and sensor is the same as the 01, but the whole shooting match is different to the 97 V3/4 Sti motor (red, brown sensors and different triggers). Can the G3 deal with using the other ones or is this a full base map change before any tuning can be done? I was intending to use the later model manifold TPS and ISC, and from the manual I can see this is no drama. Also is it possible to simply maintain the centre coil wiring/diamond remote mounted igniter and wasted spark setup split out to the late model FK0186 or FK0140 plug top coils? regards Kim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Triggering will be no problems, just use V7-9 triggering instead of V1-6.  All the other bits like the ISC valve, TPS etc... will be no problems for the ECU, as long as they are wired correctly.

You can use direct spark or wasted spark, but again, you will have to make sure that wiring is correct.  If you want to run four coils then you really should wire all four and run direct spark.  It is possible to pair up the coils and run them similar to wasted spark.  I am not sure what setup you have there, but you will either use the wasted spark coil and igniter or the direct spark coils (with built in igniters?), but not a combination of both...

You will need to do a full re-tune for that engine as there is no suitable base map...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, I thought that the triggering shouldn't be a problem with a Link considering it's heritage, but it's always good to check in case you paint yourself into a corner. The setup for coils is: Original: Standard JDM Sti V3/4 Diamond 3 wire centre coil pack (no igniter) with the Diamond GB003 igniter on the bracket with the boost controller solenoid and map/alt sensors. It's the same standard wiring as the late 96 to early 98 Sti and RA (all out of a 04-97 GF8 Sti) through the whole car. What I would like to acheive is not altering the original harness (apart from under manifold) so that I can switch engine and ECU if necessary. My air temp sensor wiring is no problem as on my model it has the 90mm 3 wire AFM (sod of a thing) with a separate 2 wire air temp sensor, so it's just an extension and the AFM unplugged. With the coils (I've got a set of both types of Diamond plug tops)to run as wasted spark. Which would be better to use this way as far as dwell etc goes for wasted spark? I assume I'd create an un-earthed junction (straight thru)for the wires where the current igniter sits, then pick up each pair and power from the plug to the original coil pack and wire the individual earths back to the engine in a single circuit. If I decide to go with direct spark and add wiring, would I lose any features that might currently use the unused channels under wasted spark?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would just run the V3-4 wasted spark arrangement and get rid of the coil packs.  That is the best way to keep it compatible with the old motor and do minimum wiring change.  I don't think there is any spark energy advantage in changing to the individual coil packs.  The AdaptaLink uses Ignition 3 and Ignition 4 to control the Fans.  There is a modification that can be done to the adapter (if it hasn't been done already) to improve fan control.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Biggest problem is that using the V6-7 manifold (offset manifold bolts in heads)I have no way of mounting the coil pack (V3-4 is centre mounted). I could use a V5 manifold which is offset coil mounting with my own coil pack, but the mounts for the coil are different and would require some mods anyway, and I would have to change injectors. I'm not really concerned if there is no spark energy improvement, it's just easier to adapt the V6-7 under manifold wiring than to find a place to weld tabs and central mount the coil pack on the manifold. Where are the details for the fan control mod, was this from the factory? I purchased my setup direct in May 2007, the AdaptaLink shows V1.0. cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We found a problem on some models where the fans would come on when the key was in the ACC position.  The fix stopped this happening.  We will modify the adapter at no charge if you send it back.  Basically it puts fan one on Ign 3 and Fan 2 on Ign 4, that gives independent control of the two fans.  I'm not sure what you will end up doing with the coils, but it would be my recommendation to use as much of the V7 parts as possible, even if it means an engine re-wire.  The other option to make it so you can swap engines easily is to purchase a second LEM G3 loom and wire the other motor so it can just be plugged in to the ECU when needed...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers for that, I've checked my adapter and it says both fans are on Ign 4, I'll post pack the adapter to you ASAP. I'm going to try the wasted spark first up with the V7 coils as I do want to use as much V7 hardware as possible (it's all near new anyway). Since I'm using the Link inbuilt MAP and supplied air temp it's really only TPS, water temp, cam/crank, etc of which I have all the V7 stuff which can be wired to suit. On another subject, can you directly wire back the output from the Innovate LC1 and monitor through the Link or do you need the output from one of their guages to go back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Got my adaptalink back, thanks good turnaround! Before I do the 2.5 install I was thinking of confirming the basic setup on my original V3 Sti setup (all standard JDM). I assume I should be able to connect the adaptor and G3 and basically start and run to confirm the adaptor settings are correct then disconnect and replace with the stock ECU until the engine swap (then a flat top to the dyno and full retune for the 2.5). Is the base map with this ECU similar to like the basic to start and run for a Microtech etc.? Or is it a bit more sophisticated? Mostly I'm trying to confirm that the JDM fuel pump pinouts etc are correct. cheers Kim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should be able to set the jumpers on the Adapter, download the V3-4 base map into your ECU, hit the key and have the engine run.  I dont know how to compare the base map to the microtech, but it is a setup file that will allow the engine to start and run, but tuning will still be required.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...