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ERRORS 23, 26 52


alansgc8

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98 WRX with E85 installed ran perfectly fine till about half way thru Mallala when suddenly car started sounding like a machine gun, limp mode and in the end was diagnosed as running in 3 cylinders. 

After some diagnosis with the local mechanic they recommended that the wiring and injectors were ok, the ECU must be at fault. LINK was kind to run me thru some tests, injector 1 wasn't responding. ECU was sent to NZ for repairs, some small component was found to be faulty and replaced/returned.

I installed it back on the car, this time more error codes 23, 26 and 52. The car is still running in 3 cylinders. 

I disconnected the engine harness and tried to clear the faults, doesn't clear off. 

The injectors work fine, i get around 2.25V for each of them when triggered but when i connect the plugs,  now injector 3 is not working. Injector 1 and 3 are connected to the same wiring. 

I can only think of an issue with the harness from ECU to the engine, or the engine harness or the ECU.

Could anyone shed some light in regards to these errors please?

Many thanx

 

alan

 

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1 hour ago, alansgc8 said:

I installed it back on the car, this time more error codes 23, 26 and 52. The car is still running in 3 cylinders. 

I disconnected the engine harness and tried to clear the faults, doesn't clear off. 

All of those errors would be expected if the have the engine loom unplugged.  23 is because the oil press sensor is disconnected, 26 is because the fuel press sensor is disconnected, 52 is because the IAT is disconnected.  

 

1 hour ago, alansgc8 said:

The injectors work fine, i get around 2.25V for each of them when triggered but when i connect the plugs,  now injector 3 is not working. Injector 1 and 3 are connected to the same wiring. 

What do you mean by Inj 1 & 3 connected to the same wiring?  If you swap wires between inj 1 & 3, does inj 3 then click if you put inj 1 in test mode?

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Hey Adam,

 

Many thanx for the fast reply.

On 1/5/2024 at 7:56 PM, Adamw said:

What do you mean by Inj 1 & 3 connected to the same wiring?

Bad way of explaining on my part, i meant to say the two injectors are connected on the same side of the loom. 

On 1/5/2024 at 7:56 PM, Adamw said:

If you swap wires between inj 1 & 3, does inj 3 then click if you put inj 1 in test mode?

Indeed. Prior to swapping when i tested inj 1 nothing will happen, when testing inj 3 then it would test fine (make those clicking sounds).

Here comes the weird thing; i swapped the connection from inj3 to see if inj1 was faulty or not, discovered that inj1 fires fine. Then the weirdest thing happened: when i placed the plugs correctly, inj 3 would no longer fire, but inj 1 would. WTF?

When checking for voltage inj 2,3,4 would measure around 2.25V, inj 1 nothing. Continuity test showed that plug of inj 1 had a short-circuit from soldering the new plugs to the existing loom side by side and the power steering metal pipe near it melted the heatshrink and caused a short-circuit. I guess I've learnt to solder at different sides and use thicker/better material. I fixed the issue, redone the connection on inj 3 as well just in case, hooked everything together, tried to reset the errors from the ECU, NOPE, right back registered the codes above (I'm pretty sure everything was plugged in), attempted the inj test again, same diagnostic with inj 1 not firing, although this time there was the same 2.25V present. 

I'll test again the injectors tomorrow resistance wise, try to flush them front to back and around with some brake cleaner.

I also pulled the engine harness out and wanting to strip it back to the factory state (i added some self fusing tape) check for any heat/mechanical damage and retape it with non-adhesive tape and the proper stuff to prevent any damage if any. 

I wanted to eliminate any suspicion in regards to the entire engine harness just to be sure. 

Will have to try test all the sensors too. 

Thank you for all the input, it surely helps. 

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14 hours ago, alansgc8 said:

Continuity test showed that plug of inj 1 had a short-circuit from soldering the new plugs to the existing loom side by side and the power steering metal pipe near it melted the heatshrink and caused a short-circuit.

Sending 12V directly into the injector drive when it was "on" has likely fried the driver.  It sounds like it will need to be returned for repair.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

I took the task to strip the upper engine off and remove everything to make sure there was no damage done to anything.

The engine harness was stripped of the insulation and checked every wire and connection which looked perfect. Added new longer injector wires with heat protection sleeve and new plugs.

Tested all the sensors = 

Yesterday i re-tested the fuel pressure and the oil pressure sensors = both read 0.5V at zero pressure with about 3V at 6BAR (compressor won't go higher)=

Injectors test done =  all of them work as they should 

Test drive, running normal up to 3000rpm then fuel cuts out.

Fuel pressure runs at 2.3ish bars at idling.

Same errors as above, stay on when reseting the ECU codes. 

Will check on everything before i re-send the ECU for repairs just to avoid wasting everyone's time. 

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Oil pressure, fuel pressure and IAT are all definitely not working in that log.  So the fault codes are correct.  AN Volt 5 & 6 are reading 0V and AN T4 is at 5V for the whole log, since these inputs are all on the same expansion connector and share a common ground wire, I would say it is most likely this ground wire that is disconnected/broken somewhere between ecu and sensors.  Since it has been spliced that is where I would look for issues first. 

The misfire/cut is because the fuel press sensor error value is giving a fixed fuel pressure, this causes the calculated differential fuel pressure to drop as boost increases and this is causing your "fuel pressure safety" on GP Limit 1 to kick in.  

 

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Problem solved, after much faulty finding and testing, the issue was inside the ECU where the connectors were plugged the other way around.

Codes were reset and working perfectly.

Where do i send you the beer?

ECU_20Plugin_20G4X_20WRX107.0_1043x1043.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry I dont understand the question or what your pictures are trying to show.  

But in your log you are certainly hitting the MAP limit quite often and boost control looks like something is wrong or not tuned well, I cant tell what your MAP limit is set to since you have very little logged, but you are hitting 250kPa MAP sometimes when the boost target is between 140-180kPa.   

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  • 1 month later...

Something's not right with this car. 

It cuts fuel and shakes the crap out still while at the track. 

No errors, temperatures seem fine, how could the injectors be at 160-196% duty while there's no fuel pressure?

I suspect the tune is not right, do these parameters look right? I have the log file if needed. 

Screenshot 2024-04-19 214603.png

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Posting the log and latest tune will be helpful.

Depending on your control mode, the ECU will increase injector pulsewidth when fuel pressure drops to try and still get the right amount of fuel into the engine. Why is the fuel pressure nosediving?

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23 hours ago, Laminar said:

Why is the fuel pressure nosediving?

That is a very good question sir. I've been trying to find out the answer for a few months now. 

A potential explanation could be that after some racing i did prior when same symptoms as above occurred, i rewrapped the engine loom for heat protection and in the proccess one of the injectors was knocked out of alignment so the seal wasn't perfect. When I got home i realised i had some "crap" on the bonnet and surroundings. It seemed like the seal allowed some whatever to escape. Thank God no fire or anything else. That could explain some sort of lean condition, although i fixed that issue and it still behaved that way after. It seems to happen only when flogged at the track not when driving regularly. It shook like crazy on 98 after 10 minutes of racing, then when I filled the tank with E85 i was able to race for about half an hr before it kind of started again. TBH is very frustrating. 

TUNE

https://drive.internxt.com/sh/file/376a559f-fdd6-450d-84e1-e01c183b3e10/090f4fdc4c45f35dac8c320049bc69a22579819e69371edc46822e9a8868a6a4

LOG1

https://drive.internxt.com/sh/file/f573abf5-d185-47fe-90d6-66288ec93cd7/c43f58f39749f0a2658a14639478ebf777fa8470cdb35924e8e375866e359888

LOG2

https://drive.internxt.com/sh/file/4015c783-d4b2-4f72-8c6b-2be01ffc3d3b/d9775c2f1bb3f477800da434826545389b8e8f01dc3203521b11d41e2d2facd5

Files are too big to post here so i uploaded to a cloud. Many thanx for your help. 

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You really need to get a tuner or someone experienced to diagnose your fuel pressure issue, you are going to fry your engine if that is a supply issue and you keep driving it like that.  Luckily your tuner has done a decent job and set up fuel pressure compensation and engine protection for low fuel pressure so that has probably saved your engine, but that has a time delay etc so should only be used as a backstop, not relied upon.  The "banging and shaking" that you are complaining about is the engine protection limiting the engine whenever fuel pressure is low.  

It is nothing to do with your injector seal or whatever, this is a loss of pressure due to an issue with the fuel supply, or possibly the pressure sensor/wiring failing.  

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