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XTreme CAN 2 issue?


Dhornby88

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Purchased SKU 101-0197 the instructions aren't clear on CAN HI or LOW i tried switching the pins between DIG 9 and 10 wanted to run the can 2 path.

The CAN status in run time values is all green i assume I've got that right but in run time values check lambda 1 and temp is 00 is that normal?

When calibrating the e-throttle i get a fault code aux9/10 when doing the pedal, it calibrates fine and then i clear the code and it operates fine, any thoughts on that?

I tried adding my dash 3 times updated all firmware and still can't get it to come up in can set up, the lambda gets recognized, but the dash doesn't. Any Tricks I'm missing?

Can the MATH channels for the dash get afr, odometer added for the dash?

"C:\Users\danie\OneDrive\LINK\Base Maps\config 17th march.pclr"

"C:\Users\danie\OneDrive\LINK\XTreme working.zconfig"

 

5 minutes ago, Dhornby88 said:

Purchased SKU 101-0197 the instructions aren't clear on CAN HI or LOW i tried switching the pins between DIG 9 and 10 wanted to run the can 2 path.

The CAN status in run time values is all green i assume I've got that right but in run time values check lambda 1 and temp is 00 is that normal?

When calibrating the e-throttle i get a fault code aux9/10 when doing the pedal, it calibrates fine and then i clear the code and it operates fine, any thoughts on that?

I tried adding my dash 3 times updated all firmware and still can't get it to come up in can set up, the lambda gets recognized, but the dash doesn't. Any Tricks I'm missing?

Can the MATH channels for the dash get afr, odometer added for the dash?

"C:\Users\danie\OneDrive\LINK\Base Maps\config 17th march.pclr"

"C:\Users\danie\OneDrive\LINK\XTreme working.zconfig"

 

SKU CANSS 101-0210 is what im trying to make work and wire into dig 9/10

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9 hours ago, Dhornby88 said:

i assume I've got that right but in run time values check lambda 1 and temp is 00 is that normal?

What does Lambda 1 status say?

 

9 hours ago, Dhornby88 said:

When calibrating the e-throttle i get a fault code aux9/10 when doing the pedal, it calibrates fine and then i clear the code and it operates fine, any thoughts on that?

Would need to see a log, there is no fault code "Aux 9/10".  There are 2 fault codes related to aux 9/10, code 71 occurs if the aux9/10 supply voltage drops below 7V, or code 74 occurs if the e-throttle relay turns off.  There are a few other fault codes that only occur during a TP calibration process if it doesnt succeed.

 

9 hours ago, Dhornby88 said:

I tried adding my dash 3 times updated all firmware and still can't get it to come up in can set up, the lambda gets recognized, but the dash doesn't. Any Tricks I'm missing?

If you mean when using the "find devices" tool, this is only for programming CAN Lambda's, it will not find any 3rd party devices.  

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I got the CAN 2 to work i re added the dash and it seems to function can you add the math channels to my dash for AFR and odometer to work?

I have attached a trigger scope and log while cranking does everything look happy?

"C:\Link G4\PCLink G4+\Logs\Trigger Scope Log 2024-03-30 5;23;29 pm.llg"

"C:\Users\danie\OneDrive\LINK\Base Maps\config 17th march change trigger offset.pclr"

"C:\Users\danie\OneDrive\LINK\XTreme working.zconfig"

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I got the engine to run but the e throttle isnt working, throws a code. Can you see this log and my tune let me know what needs to be fixed please?

 

"C:\Users\danie\OneDrive\LINK\Base Maps\changed offset again.pclr"

"C:\Users\danie\OneDrive\LINK\Link logs\Logs\ethrottle code.llg"

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The links to your files above are windows explorer directories that are only useful for someone logged into your PC.  Right-click on those files, choose share, then in the dialog that pops up, make sure under "copy link" that "anyone with link can edit" is selected then copy the link and paste here.  

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It’s a Mazda BP engine

changed to crank trigger 36-2, it’s throwing trigger errors on cranking. Is it an issue with the OEM dizzy?

2200cc injectors ethanol.

if the tune can just get it running idling happily I can get it to the tuner 

cranking trigger error.llg

Trigger Scope Log 2024-03-30 5;23;29 pm.llg

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The throttle error just appears to be PID tuning, you have a strong oscillation, I suspect too much derivative gain.  I have changed to some more typical starting values in the attached map.  

I have also changed some of the idle settings as the throttle was being held open 40% when cranking.  

There are no trigger issues in your log or scope, that all looks fine and happy.  

Most likely just need to confirm the base timing now, try adding or subtracting 360 from the offset if a timing light shows the correct timing but there are still no signs of life.  

Idle and throttle PID changes.pclr

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Increase the idle ignition RPM lockout to about 1700RPM and in idle control settings, reduce the anti-stall gain to 1.0.  Those should hopefully settle down the oscillation.  

mPg9iIj.png

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On 4/7/2024 at 8:03 AM, Dhornby88 said:

Thanks Adam

That did make a difference, i have attached another log.

It does still want to stall at times when idling up if you could make any other adjustments please?

idling.llg

changed after link reccom.pclr

Hi Adam

Could you assist with this follow up please?

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Your engine is making no vacuum so something doesnt seem happy there.  Cam timing out maybe?  Have you confirm ignition timing is correct?  

You can try setting the idle ignition control MAP lockout to something like 110Kpa so it still kicks in without vacuum, but it seems more like something is mechanically wrong if it cant produce manifold vacuum at idle.  

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14 hours ago, Adamw said:

Your engine is making no vacuum so something doesnt seem happy there.  Cam timing out maybe?  Have you confirm ignition timing is correct?  

You can try setting the idle ignition control MAP lockout to something like 110Kpa so it still kicks in without vacuum, but it seems more like something is mechanically wrong if it cant produce manifold vacuum at idle.  

You can’t see it making any vacuum at all? I thought I could see it making it in the tests, I might verify no leaks with a pressure test.

i checked timing it’s definitely on the money.

its got extremely large cams so it never really made much vacuum on the old plug in either.

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