MEE97B Posted May 11 Report Share Posted May 11 Evening, I'm very new to link ecus, been installing a gtrlink into my r33 gts25t over the past week, I think I've hit every roadblock possible. My current issues are: The idle solenoid does nothing, can set the base position anywhere from 0 to 100 and nothing changes besides the idle position output. I need to hold trottle for it to idle and even then the car still seems to hunt so maybe is trying? Since this morning: Charge temp randomly pins at 50 Celsius batt voltage says its at 6 volts, car is at around 12.7 volts This caused the injector dead time to triple leaving changes to the fuel map to do nothing. afr levels plummeted as injectors were still getting 12v Things to note: Car was running an apexi power fc ecu with a maf, all systems worked when it was removed aA day ago the radio constant 12v has given up, 12v socket still works but radio gapping may have something to do with the batt? Link output voltages are all fine, 3.3v, 5v, aux 9/10 voltage and 12v internal all read correct. Will be checking main fuses after a feed, any other ideas? im a bit lost. Cheers Log.pclr Log 2024-05-11 12;42;16 pm.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 11 Report Share Posted May 11 For the idle valve, you can use test mode with the engine off to check it is working. Go to injector 7 output, change its function to Test (PWM) and change the frequency to 10Hz, you should hear it clicking if it is working. For the batt voltage, start by confirming voltage between Pin 49 or 59 (+12V) and pin 116 (main ground). greddy32 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MEE97B Posted July 18 Author Report Share Posted July 18 Thanks for your reply, ended up with some major issues so only getting back into the swing of things now Sorted the radio 12v, not related to other issues. probably happened when changing the afr gauge to ecu/direct battery power. Dunno how but it's fixed now The batt volt issue was due to the ecu casing touching the chassis, so there must be a positive pin of some sort touching the case that shouldn't be, will check the voltage across chassis to case later when I check the idle control Car now runs fine and can balance its idle on its own after some hunting which suggests the idle control valve is somewhat responsive, as its not adjusted with timing yet Hopefully not another month before my next update. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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