Brb199 Posted July 9 Report Share Posted July 9 Hi we are running a g4+ storm on a vk56 using the vk56 trigger pattern 36-1-1 and original cam pick up. this is a new setup with a 2nd hand storm ecu and using a new style gt101 sensor which supposedly works fine on missing tooth patterns. Everything runs fine for 5 odd minutes then it starts logging trigger 1 faults has big rpm spikes before stalling. We are waiting on another new crank sensor to arrive but im not confident it will make any difference, trigger scopes have always looked clean but never been able to get one as it faults. Attached is its last log around the 8 minute mark you can see the faults start. sensor is not close to heat or anything like that, i could try run a different ecu from my boat to eliminate that as been a issue but its turning into a real head scratcher it also appears to be 100+hp down on expectations and stops making power after 5800rpm when realistic peak should be 7500rpm but this could be completely unrelated Any thought much appreciated ECU Log 2024-07-8 4;36;36 pm.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted July 9 Report Share Posted July 9 A trigger scope would still be useful even if it was running ok at the time. Is it a VVT or non-VVT VK? Is it using the stock flexplate/trigger wheel with a different sensor? What specific crank sensor are you using? Is the pull-up off on the cam sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brb199 Posted July 9 Author Report Share Posted July 9 It’s was a vvti engine that has had it all deleted. I think I have a trigger scope saved I will find it and send through and also look up what the pull up is set to. The crank sensor is from Ross Performance parts labelled as a gt101 (photo attached) the trigger wheel is also from Ross it was a 36-2 and we welded 1 tooth back on and took one tooth off 180° around to make it a 36-1-1 like Nissan. It is different to what we normally use as it has the tooth missing where ours has the tooth not cut out at all if that makes any sense I’ve attached 2 photos one of how our wheel is and one of the modified Ross wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brb199 Posted July 9 Author Report Share Posted July 9 Pull up off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brb199 Posted July 9 Author Report Share Posted July 9 Trigger Scope Log 2024-05-16 8;01;27 pm.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brb199 Posted July 11 Author Report Share Posted July 11 Hi, any update in regard’s to the 2 different trigger wheels pictured? Or trigger scope? the long solid tooth like how Nissan do it vs the tooth missing. Both the same tooth count but does ecu see it differently? Any input would be great hoping to runs engine again this afternoon with new crank sensor thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted July 12 Report Share Posted July 12 Are the wires on the crank sensor the same colour as your pic shows - Black/white, black/red, black? If so then that is an old GT101DC and they arent suitable for missing tooth wheels. The alternatives which are suitable for missing tooth wheels have different colour wires - either a littelfuse 55505 which has black/red/white, or a ZF GS101202 which has blue/brown/black wires. The ZF sensor often needs a stronger pull-up wired in externally to work with high tooth count wheels, I think the 55505 is usually ok wired directly but I havent used one for a long time. Honeywell discontinued the GT101DC about 5 years ago, so I would be suspicious of anyone selling a GT101 today, likely a chinese clone/fake. I need to also confirm your cam/crank alignment is acceptable to the ecu to rule out that possibility as it is quite different to the stock pattern, but Im currently away for a few days so it will have to wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brb199 Posted July 18 Author Report Share Posted July 18 Thanks for reply. The sensor has red, black and white/black wires and so does the new replacement sensor. Looks like the same colour wires that Haltech’s gt101 have on there site but no solid info if they work well with missing tooth We changed sensor, still had fault changed ECU, still had fault disconnected alternator, ran for 20 mins with no fault but not 100% sure if that was just luck still looking at changing the trigger wheel to be more like what we have ran in the past Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brb199 Posted September 1 Author Report Share Posted September 1 hi, looks like we have fixed the trigger fault by changing alternator, so must of been some sort of interference. still have a engine with low power using lots of injector running lean and having cold EGT's. ran on trailer with with lite load around 4500rpm but see a lot of spikes in log with MGP and injector duty cycle not sure if im missing something here but doesn't look normal could someone please look at log attached and see if something stands out thanks Log 2024-09-2 10;08;19 am erratic mgp.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 2 Report Share Posted September 2 The erratic MAP looks like a faulty sensor or wiring/connection issue. In some places the MAP drops to ~40Kpa when the throttle is near wide-open so that shouldnt be realistically possible assuming the throttle is actually open. The only way to create that much vacuum at WOT would be something else working as a "throttle" such as a rubber intake pipe collapsing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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