Bremen Posted July 29 Report Share Posted July 29 Hello, New to the forum and even newer to tuning. I've turned wrenches for a living for over 28 years but never took an interest in tuning until now. I am having a difficult time locating a tuner that will and can work with Link... I am looking for a tune that would be as close as possible for my base starting point. Listed below are the specs on the engine. Any help and or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. New Subaru 2.5ej factory short block, not a reman.... 8.5.1 comp ratio with factory internals, non turbo heads with stainless valves, ARP stud kit, New Garrett gt28rs dual bb Turbo, new 83lb injectors with billet rails, New 255lph inline fuel pump return system, all lines are 6an, New CBM fuel reg, New Tial BOV, New Tial waste gate, 2.25" exhaust dump thru bullet muffler, Top mount Intercooler air to air, Link 4 bar map, Link G+ Atom II ecu... Like I said, I'm just looking to get a base map so I can fire the motor without melting down anything. I'm not sure if any of the one's offered in the ECU library would be a better fit. Thanks ahead of time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 3 Report Share Posted August 3 The WRX V3-4 base map will be the best starting point if you have the 3 wire idle valve, or the V5-6 mao if you have the 6wire valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bremen Posted August 16 Author Report Share Posted August 16 So I was able to fire the engine up this evening on the base map that was sent with the G4+ from the builder. I tried the WRX V3-4 map and the car wouldn't even start. Question... Does anyone have any knowledge in regard to setting the base idle? This setup does not use DBW as it's a cable system. Also, no IAC. PIDS for the TPS look normal. I've calibrated the TPS along with the Link 4bar Map. I'm having to crack the throttle a bit to get any stable idle. I'm just wondering if I need to, or if you are supposed to adjust the actual throttle stop on an initial setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 17 Report Share Posted August 17 If you have no IAC then yes you will have to adjust the throttle stop to get the air required for the desired speed. Make sure you set base timing etc first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bremen Posted August 17 Author Report Share Posted August 17 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bremen Posted August 17 Author Report Share Posted August 17 Anyone care to look at this tune file and possibly provide me with some insight on where I should start cleaning things up? Car starts and runs and idles, but it's running super fat... Engine specs... ej 2.5 DOHC semi closed deck, factory block, 83lb injectors with billet rails, non turbo heads, stock cams, stainless valves, ARP stud kit, Tial BOV, Tial wastegate, Garrett gt28rs, 3 wire TPS, Cable driven TB, air to air intercooler, 2.25" exhaust.... This is a Speed Density setup... No IAC, No MAF, No O2... Fuel pressure currently set @ 45psi. The fuel map looks hella fat. Any help would be greatly appreciated. ORIGIAL TUNE.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bremen Posted August 18 Author Report Share Posted August 18 So, after installing my WB, I misspoke in regard to the fuel trims being hella fat. In reality, they were the complete opposite, lean..... WB pegged @ 19.0. So, I did some more digging around in the tune that came with the engine/ecu. It looks like someone had set up batch/bank firing in the injection parameters. I don't know why as there are four inj drivers available to use. Maybe they thought it was a v8? Anyway, I set if for Sequential/Traditional in the main and then bumped the master fuel trim up to 10% from 15% along with setting the tps and calibrating the MAP and TPS again. Now the engine fires up and is running smooth @ idle with no hesitation even on snap accel. WB now reads 13.2 @ idle not fully warmed up. Still a bit fat but getting close. I attached the revised tune file if anyone cares to look at it. Question, I'd like to tap the Atom II ECU for my WB, so I can log... My analog volt 2 is open in the tune file with no device configured. Do I use the NBo2 designation or lamba for the WB on the dropdown once I tap the 0-5v reference from the gauge to the an volt 2 on the ECU? Just don't want to light up the ECU. Anyway... I appreciate any info this helpful forum can give me. Everybody started somewhere, I'm proof that even at 57 years old you can teach an old dog new tricks. BTW, I wonder how many of you could setup a dual point dizzy with twin carbs sittin a top an 671 blower or rebuild a 4l80e blind folded. I'd be happy to show you, just ask! Thanks... base tune 081824 revision sequential.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bremen Posted August 18 Author Report Share Posted August 18 So I was able to wire up and configure my wideband so if and when I need to log data I can... Set it as LAMBDA 1 in the AN volt 2 and AEM X EUGO in the calibration... It follows the gauge, so I'm good with it... Thanks me! Hahahahahahaha.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 18 Report Share Posted August 18 Have you confirmed the base timing yet? This is important to do before you do any tuning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bremen Posted August 19 Author Report Share Posted August 19 (edited) Base timing @ idle via live data was around 9.8/10.2* .... Also, I'm not able to get a good log as the car is still on jack stands. I only ran the car for a few minutes so as to not try and kill myself in the garage. Once I get the wheels back on I'll post a log. AFR's looked pretty good at idle during warmup. Edited August 19 by Bremen Added content Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 19 Report Share Posted August 19 To set base timing, you need to do it in the "set base timing" screen. Follow the instructions in the help here: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Triggers > Calibrate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bremen Posted August 20 Author Report Share Posted August 20 I assume this is what you were referring to? And my base should be? Not gonna be 0* most likely it's 10* yeah? It also states "Rotate the CAS" to achieve desired correlation between crank and cam.... It's a fixed sensor. Is this even possible? I mean, to rotate it? That's kinda crazy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 20 Report Share Posted August 20 20 hours ago, Bremen said: And my base should be? Not gonna be 0* most likely it's 10* yeah? The point of the trigger calibration is to confirm that when you command say 20deg advance in the ecu software that your spark actually does occur at 20°BTDC. So the "lock timing to" setting can be whatever is most convenient for you - if your front pulley or timing cover has a 10°BTDC timing mark on it then 10deg is probably a convenient value to lock to, if your pulley only has a TDC mark and you dont have a dial back timing light then 0 would be the appropriate value to lock the timing to. 20 hours ago, Bremen said: It also states "Rotate the CAS" to achieve desired correlation between crank and cam.... It's a fixed sensor. Is this even possible? I mean, to rotate it? That's kinda crazy. It only says to rotate the CAS if the trigger mode is 1 Tooth per TDC, you should be using Subaru V1-6 trigger mode so that doesnt apply. You should adjust the trigger offset to make the timing marks match as per the next instruction (and make sure you hit enter each time you adjust offset). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bremen Posted August 20 Author Report Share Posted August 20 I reread the instructions, that makes more sense now. I guess it would be similar to a crank relearn process... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bremen Posted August 22 Author Report Share Posted August 22 So I decided that it might be better if I go with Modelled Fuel setup vs the Standard... I think the tune would be a bit more accurate if I added a Fuel Pressure Sensor reference along with a Can Bus Wideband... I'll take the Volt an 2 and convert it to Fuel Pressure Reference and then just tap the Can input at the ECU for the WB. What say you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 22 Report Share Posted August 22 As for fuel equation mode I wouldnt be too bothered either way, traditional is usually easier if you dont have good injector data. A CAN wideband and a fuel press sensor are certainly good practice for any install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bremen Posted August 22 Author Report Share Posted August 22 Thanks again for the input... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bremen Posted September 8 Author Report Share Posted September 8 So, I went thru the process of checking the base timing. For starters, there is/was no timing indicator on the crank pulley, ever. I went ahead and pulled the timing cover and brought the engine up on TDC and aligned all the gears per the book... At that point, I marked the crank pulley for TDC. There are several degree marks on the cover ranging left to right on the cover... 30/20/10/0/10 The current ignition calibration in the tune is the Subaru V1-6. Both cam and crank sensors are set as reluctor and low level 1 filtering. I have the base locked at 10* and idle is @ 850/900 rpms. When I put my timing light on the engine, I'm reading like 18/20 degrees at idle. I attempted to change the offset to compensate for this, but wasn't able to see any notable changes on the timing indicator with the engine at idle. Am I supposed to be checking these parameters while cranking and not idle? Link does not specify. Also, is it possible because I am using the Subaru V1-6 designated trigger mode I am not able to calibrate the offset? Car fires up on just a bump of the key and idles smooth... As usual, any and all input is greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 8 Report Share Posted September 8 11 minutes ago, Bremen said: The current ignition calibration in the tune is the Subaru V1-6. Both cam and crank sensors are set as reluctor and low level 1 filtering. I have the base locked at 10* and idle is @ 850/900 rpms. When I put my timing light on the engine, I'm reading like 18/20 degrees at idle. I attempted to change the offset to compensate for this, but wasn't able to see any notable changes on the timing indicator with the engine at idle. Possibly you didnt hit enter when changing the offset? The text should turn blue to show it has been applied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bremen Posted September 8 Author Report Share Posted September 8 So I hover over the "done" box, it turns blue, then I click and the page closes... I'm a tard, looks like I didn't hit "enter" before I hit done... I'll try again tomorrow. But should I be doing this on cranking only? Or is idle ok... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 9 Report Share Posted September 9 2 hours ago, Bremen said: I'll try again tomorrow. But should I be doing this on cranking only? Or is idle ok... Normally done at idle initially, then checked at higher RPM also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bremen Posted September 10 Author Report Share Posted September 10 So I went ahead and used my piston dead stop on the #1 cylinder and then rotated the crank clockwise to full stop and marked it, then counterclockwise to full stop and marked it again. I then split the difference which gave me absolute TDC and then punched the balancer for TDC and marked it. After locking in the timing at 10* in the calibration, I can now 100% verify that the base timing is dead on at 10*. I brought it up to about 3000 on a snap accel, and it pulled about 30/32*. Looks like the timing is now set. Moving forwards, I played around with the fuel maps/table at idle and was able to get AFR to 14.60/14.80 with just a 1% reduction in the 900rpm idle cell. Main fuel is currently set at 14 ms. I need to get all the misc odds and ends spooled up so I can drive the car under load while logging the data, I still need to dial in my waste gate and BOV... Once I get it all lined out, I'll take it for a spin. This will give me a better understanding of what needs to be addresses first. 20240909_170618(1).mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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