Davidv Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Hi there, I'm Running a Beams motor which has a 36-2 crank trigger wheel > Reluctor. Many years ago it had a tooth broken off the crank trigger wheel, which is part of the cambelt pulley.It's nearly impossible to find a replacement one so I had a blob of metal tig'd back on, and filed to shape. Ran fine on the standard ECU from idle to redline since then. However since fitting the link, I've had some problems because it looks as though this one tooth puts out a slightly weaker signal than the others. From memory this tooth was slightly slightly shorter than the others but after testing it ran fine with the standard ECU so didnt worry about it. Since fitting the Link though Initially I had a problem where the motor wouldnt run below 1700rpm, but fixed that by adjusting the arming voltage after seeing that the voltage from that one tooth was lower than the others. However now I cant go above 6000rpm at all, just hits a wall. Tried adjusting filtering and arming settings, but no combination of settings seem to make a difference. Once more it's proving impossible to buy this part on it's own, so I'm looking for some advice on what might be the most practical way to resolve this problem.Thinking:Cut off every 2nd tooth to make it an 18 tooth wheel instead? So it would be an 18-1 wheel?Or I might weld another blob on and reshape the tooth again.Or would it be best to run an external trigger wheel or similar... Any advice appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davidv Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 One other question, On my ECU the VVTI solenoid has two of it's own pins that go directly back to the ECU, and I cant find documentation for what these pins on the ECU did. OCV+ and OCV-Am I correct in thinking it is supposed to be 12v supply to the positive side, and then aux output to the earth side to switch it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted January 20, 2015 Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 I'll go with the easy answer first. The VVT is 12V to one side and ground switched from ECU to the other. For the trigger it would pay to get a scope image of it at 6000RPM (will need an external one as the internal trigger scope won't be good enough) ECU wise all we are looking for in a tooth is a voltage above the arming and then a clean zero crossing as it goes past. As you have vvt changing to alternative triggers starts to get hard. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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