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Noob questions re ems in general?...sorry but you've got to start somewhere...


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Posted

I have a 1989 Porsche 944 turbo. This is stock 2.5ltr. I am having a highly modified 3.5ltr motor built and my engine builder is keen on using LINK G3+ and the Knock Box for protection. This will be built in the US and shipped to me in Australia. I am doing some research on whether I can ship some of our local 98 oct. fuel and maybe some 102 Shell WR race fuel also so they will have the two fuels I use. If that is not possible and they tune on their local 93 pump gas will I have to do much extra or fine tuning when it gets back to me? They have different oct ratings and our 98 is meant to be closest to their 93. How good is the Knock box in terms of protection? Our stock Porsche system even from back then was very good and could pull timing and boost if needed? I am being told that you don't tune up to knock then just dial it back a notch as this doesn't allow for bad fuel or altitude changes etc. I'm not sure if it's politically correct to ask in here, but anyway, why should I choose LINK over other brands? I am not unhappy to use LINK but I really don't know either way. My builder is the US agent for LINK so I guess that's a good thing. lol Anyway if anyone can give me a few ideas or impressions I would be grateful. Thanks in advance, Patrick

Posted

Well, I am probably too biased about why you should choose our ECU but...  I can guarantee an ECU that will run the engine the engine as well, if not better than other competitors, offers precise 4D tuning of sequential fuel and ignition, blah blah...  You have probably read the specs.  What the specs don't tell you is the support options.  We offer free phone, email, skype chat/phone and forum support.

Also note that the knock option is internal to the LinkPlus G3 ECU.  You could and should use the KnockBlock as a tuning aid, but the ECU has its knock control circuit internally.  It has the ability to pull timing out if required, but like all ECU features must be tuned to suit your engine.

Like you said, it is not correct to tune to the point at which det occurs then back it off.  The reason for this is that just before det is not necessarily the highest power point.  the way to tune is to increase timing until no more power is produced.  Any further advance past that point is a waste.  On high power turbo engines det will often occur before power stops increasing.  At that point it is up to the tuner to use common sense when choosing ignition numbers.

One thing I will point out as an advantage of the G3 is on board barometric pressure correction and intake air temperature correction.  Those features result in an incredibly stable tune from day to day (and country to country).  As far as fuel goes, you should probably have the engine tuned on worst case fuel and then retune once the engine is installed in the car on the fuel it will run, after it is run in.  It is my experience that engines tuned, then installed in the car are never exactly right and require a little work...

Posted

Thanks Ashley. Yes pretty silly question of mine but if you don't ask etc... I like the idea of the onboard barometric pressure and intake air correcting. What does it use to measure the intake air with? I currently have an MAF kit, chipset, and piggyback and can use an SMT6 to tune with. Not a bad system out of the box, but ultimately lacking some of the features of a properly set up LINK G3+. I initially selected the current system over standalone as I had heard the stories of people spending countless hours and dollars on the dyno and that doesn't turn me on. I want to set the car up so I can just drive it on the street from time to time but the focus is for the racetrack and don't want to be doing hour upon hour of datalogging and re-tuning. I just want to drive the car. Of course I realize that there will be some tuning to do but I am hoping that we cut to the chase pretty quick and don't need to constantly alter the settings. I'm hoping that this is absolutely possible. Thanks again, Patrick

Posted

IAT correction is not 'onboard'.  Sorry if I confused you.  IAT correction requires the wiring of an IAT sensor (factory fitted on most engines).  Then IAT correction can be enabled and used.

As with all ECU upgrades, including chips, piggy backs, intercepts and full replacements... They must alll be dyno tuned.  If you use a good tuner and an ECU that has working IAT and barometric correction, then there should be no reason to tune on the dyno, then re-tune at the track over and over again...

Some people like to continuously fiddle with mixtures and ignition curves, but to be honest once a good tuner has had his way with it you shouldn't need to ever touch it.  There will always be some odd adjustments you may want to alter at the track such as boost level or launch control slip, but at least with a fully programmable system you will have that option...

Posted

IAT correction is not 'onboard'.  Sorry if I confused you.  IAT correction requires the wiring of an IAT sensor (factory fitted on most engines).  Then IAT correction can be enabled and used.

As with all ECU upgrades, including chips, piggy backs, intercepts and full replacements... They must alll be dyno tuned.  If you use a good tuner and an ECU that has working IAT and barometric correction, then there should be no reason to tune on the dyno, then re-tune at the track over and over again...

Some people like to continuously fiddle with mixtures and ignition curves, but to be honest once a good tuner has had his way with it you shouldn't need to ever touch it.  There will always be some odd adjustments you may want to alter at the track such as boost level or launch control slip, but at least with a fully programmable system you will have that option...

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