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new triggering problem (now engine starts) "SOLVED"


Guest |257|

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Guest |257|

After installing the camshaft sensor now the engine starts and idles a little rought.. but correclty .. but the vipec cant measure wright the engine speed..

Here it is a youtube video showing how it behaves...

Here is a screenshot of the vipec showing hows the triggering arming voltage and the engine speed oscilation: (trigger 1 is green, trigger 2 is red)

problemap.jpg

Here is a screenshot of the triggering arming voltage during cranking.. i tried turning off the ignition during cranking but the triggering voltage is the same.. (trigger 1 is green, trigger 2 is red)

problema2.png

I also tried to change the triggering offset.. but no changes so far.. (tried from -10° to 10°)

This has something to do with the triggering calibration?..

Best Regards.. Bruno

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Guest |118|
I also tried to change the triggering offset.. but no changes so far.. (tried from -10° to 10°)

This has something to do with the triggering calibration?..

bruno,

first you need to check if your polarity is correct. I'm assuming you have a reluctor sensor at the crank. in the vipec manual it shows a sample scope of the triggers (this make a big difference)...next, the trigger offset is used to get the correct timing. your flywheel should have a mark on it at 10 btdc . set the ref timing to 0. turn the lock to ref on then that holds it at the set ref timing (10). once your timing is set, turn the lock to ref off and your good to go. if you are getting triggering errors after that, then adjust the filter level or check your shielded wire placement...

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Guest |257|

hi folks!!

i changed the trigger filtering in both.. cam and crank sensor and there is no difference at all..

to check the reluctors polarity i conected the sensor to an analog voltimeter.. when i put the reluctor near a piece of metal first the gauge must show postive voltage.. then negative voltage.. (like the manual says)... And ive also tried changing the polarity and the car wont starts so thats ok..

now im going to email to ray my pcl file..

the cam and crank sensor cables are soldered and covered with a special coating that shrinks when you heat it.. (i dont know the english name).. regarding the noise that would generate the coils.. ive cranked with the ingnition on and off and is the same..

something i whant to add is that one time.. ive changed the triggering offset to 3° when the engine was at iddle and the vipec started to measure correctly the rpm...! but the triggering error counter goes to 255, so I stopped the engine, cranked again and the problem comes again (wrong engine speed, and trigger error).. so its like the thing can be done... but im missing something.

best regards.. Bruno.

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I have looked at your map and see no problems, other then the idle valve Hz is too low.

The trigger selection Subaru ver 1-3 is for the EJ20 engines. As your engine is the EJ16 it may not have the same number of teeth on the crank and cam. Can you confirm they are the same as EJ20.

Ray.

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Guest |257|

Ray:

The time pulley of my impreza is the same as the ej20..

ive modified the wiring of my car.. (now im running sequential injection) and changed the injector timing and trigger calibration same as the 99sample pcl file and the car idles better and it measures wright the rpm

But the error counter overflows at idling or at any RPM and the engine has misfiring at high rpm.... ive also tried to wire the positive of the wasted spark coils totaly separed from the rest of the wiring and nothig changes..

I whant to know something.. what is exactly a trigger error?? its an unespected/outdated trigger?..

And im going to borrow from my work a digital osciloscope.. i was thinkig to check the trigger signal from another impreza (an ej20) both, crank and cam and compare it to my car.. also i will check the ecu power supply for any noise.. anything else you reccomend to check so i can be shure to eliminate any interference going to the ecu???

Best Regards.. Bruno

Edit: its possible to use quick-tune with a nb oxy sensor? ..

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The time pulley of my impreza is the same as the ej20..

What about the cam trigger, it is just as important as the crank signals.

I whant to know something.. what is exactly a trigger error?? its an unespected/outdated trigger?..

Trigger errors are reported when the ECU does not see the correct number of crank and cam signal. Also the signal must be the correct positions.

The cam and the crank sensors must be wired so the signal rises first, then falls. If you have either of them around the wrong way you will get trigger errors and misfires.

The way to find the correct wiring is to remove the sensors from the engine. Connect a multi-meter across both terminals on the sensor, then pass a piece of steel across the face of the sensor quickly. If the meter shows a positive voltage, then the terminal you have the red wire from the meter connected is the +ve terminal and you connect this to either Trigger 1 to 2 depending on which sensor you are testing. If the meter show a negative voltage, then the terminal with the black wire on the meter is the +ve.

You cannot use a narrow or wideband 02 sensor directly connected to the Vipec to Quicktune. You must use a wideband meter between the sensor and the Vipec.

Ray.

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Guest |257|

ray.. the sensor polarity is ok.. ive done exaclty what you say at the first time to ensure the reluctors polarity.. and regarding the cam sensor.. i installed the dohc ej20 heads with the original cam pulley and the sensor is in the same position as the turbo model.. so thats not the problem..

well thanks for the support ray.. i will re check the instalation with an osciloscope and write again if i have any news..

best regards.. bruno

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Guest |257|

Well.. aparently ive solved the problem.. it was that in my model of impreza.. as ray say in another post.. has different crankshaft wheel pattern than the EJ20 model..... it has 1 tooth more.. thats why the car runs but has this trigger errors...

Ive didnt saw it because its very similar.. but i called my local subaru dealer and ive asked for the crankshaft wheels and theyre different.. the difference is that all the subarus from the 90´s that have camshaft sensor have the same wheel pattern... but in some models.. as the 1600cc and 1800cc for south american market that has no emisions requirments so they came with no camshaft sensor and a different crank wheel.. 7 theet instead of 6 of the euro/us model..

thanks for the support of all the people of the forum and specially to ray!!

Best Regards.. Bruno.

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