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Everything posted by Gregconboy158

  1. Hi, when I tuned my car it was very hot and the iats were in the 60c range (bad filter location, sorted now) so I turned off the iat compensation for both fuel and ignition. Anyway since I've sorted the filter and got a good cold air feed onto it the iats are drastically lower (20-40c) the car runs lean and feels very flat so I've turned on the iat compensation tables for fuel and adjusted to suit and it runs much better now across the rev range but now it doesn't like starting, at any coolant temperature. Sometimes takes 3 times turning ignition on and off to actually start and still turns over to many rotations than it should and then once started itll cut out if the revs aren't held to clear the fuel in the cylinders because of it. So anyway is there anything I can do short of retuning the car? Not really what I want to do if I can get around it imo. Before turning the iat table back on it started everytime easily. Here is a picture of the iat table and the engine is a honda b18. Any help would be great its embarrassing and annoying constantly having to turn it over and over and then hold revs once it does start. Thankyou
  2. Gregconboy158

    RPM CUT Link G4+

    Yes completely forgot to say that too! Make sure you do as Simon has said! I forgot and fried some new coils lol
  3. Gregconboy158

    RPM CUT Link G4+

    Remember to change the dwell table to accommodate the k20 cop. I can send my table later if needed when I get home from work.
  4. I assume it's still on stock dizzy? If so put ref timing to 16 degrees, try 119 in trigger offset and see if it'll start. When changing you need to make sure you press enter when doing changes otherwise it wont change. You'll also need a timing light to get the trigger offset perfect but it will start if you keep changing the numbers and its close. Keep trying and go up in 20s until its close then lower numbers each way. That's how I done it and then used timing light to get it perfect after it was close.
  5. Simon this is happy news to me because I've always moaned about my plug in not having enough outputs. Can this be done on all pnp ecus and how long would the ECU be required for?? What is the cost of this
  6. Gregconboy158

    B18C Link G4+

    You need to set the trigger offset, that'll be your reason. Mine on dizzy is I think 117, cop is 279 trigger offset. Obviously dont take my figures to be right for you, that's just what mine is. At the stock offset mine would run on dizzy but not very well, get the timing light out and set the dizzy to centre, 16tdc on link and adjust the trigger offset until you see it right on the pulley
  7. Thanks Adam all working with pull up on. Now to try and figure out how to get It reading right as atm its 10mph out at 70mph
  8. Ahh Gotcha so maybe the reason is because the pull up is turned off!! Will try it on when I get to the car later and see how that is! Thanks Adam
  9. Thanks will do that once I'm with the car, what do you want a log of so I make sure I get everything you need. From reading on the internet I'm seeing apparently the signal wire on a stock Honda outputs 5v, while mine reads 0v?? I've got 12v to power pin and good earth to the earth pin but 0v on the signal pin at the plug end. If you skip to 3minutes in it explains it in this video
  10. I didnt no, I will try with pull up on and see if it makes a difference. How do I attach map and log?
  11. Hi all, having a right mare with my vss ECU is Honda 95 pnp g4+ The vss wont read on the ECU, I've tried everything I can possibly think of and cannot get it to work. The catch is it used to work!! What I've done is; Changed vss for brand new item, even tried a friends known working vss. Changed the plug for vss, tested it's got good 12v and earth. Changed the signal wire straight to ECU, literally everything I can think of! Tonight I've taken the vss out the gearbox and put it in a drill to rule out a problem in the gearbox, still nothing on the tablet, it doesn't even come "on" in runtime values. Then I took the signal wire out of ECU plug and used multimeter (12v from battery and the earth onto the signal wire) and turning the wheel this pulses 12v-0v-12v !! So why on earth it wont read on tablet is beyond me! I even tried putting it to another digital input, stock on Honda is a/c switch, which I haven't got so swapped this to lf wheel speed and it still doesn't read anything. Sorry if I've baffled on or bits and pieces dont make sense I'm just miffed as to why it wont work and I cant get my head around it. Any help be appreciated
  12. Gregconboy158

    B18C Link G4+

    Are you still using the dizzy or converted to k20 coil on plug?
  13. I've enabled advanced settings and set it to 0 but still does the same thing. I will take a picture at lunch Found one on my phone. I changed the 200 to 0 and still does same thing. Also as said it's like a brick wall, it's hard to explain but its not like you would usually have a rev limiter
  14. Tried to search to no avail. I've a Honda b series, k20 COP link g4+ 95 pnp ECU. Trouble I've got is the rev limiter is coming on about 2-300rpm below the set limiter, when this happens it comes up with "rpm limit activated" Not only that it's like you hit a brick wall, its not like your usual rev limiter. I've tried changing from fuel cut which it was set to originally to ignition cut and no difference. Anyone had this problem? Thanks,
  15. Hi all, got a Honda pnp ECU (b18) which I've just upgraded to k20 injectors on. Just wondering if anyone can help with the master fuel? Currently its stock 22ms from the basemap (untuned currently) and seems quite high. I dont know if my wideband is reading correctly but it seems to be real rich lol. How do I work out the master fuel? I've changed the dead times to recommended for k20 injectors but lost on the master fuel and if I need to change anything else. Thanks,
  16. Wondering if anyone's had this problem before. G4+ PnP civic ECU and I'm having problems with voltage. On idle itll read roughly 13.4-13.6 volts on pclink (haven't checked at battery) but when I turn fan, lights etc on it drops to 12.6v. I'm sure the alternator regulator is working because if you unplug the regulator plug it stops charging and stays at 12v without lights etc (haven't checked with lights on) Was wondering if there is something in the software that compensates for alternator load at all? I can get a log tomorrow if needed. I'm also going to try my friends hondata ECU to see what that reads
  17. Doh lol. thanks Adam to the rescue again! Will try that tomorrow and see how I get on!
  18. As title, I've tried searching and tried everything I can on laptop but cant get it to change from kph to mph. I've changed the settings on both metric and imperial to no avail. It's a PnP Honda civic 95 ECU, has VSS and is listed as "DI 4 LF Wheel Speed (kph)" I've tried changing it on properties but its grey'd out and cannot change the kph. Any help be great thanks,
  19. Thought that might be the case. Thanks Adam
  20. As title really, probably not possible but thought I'd ask incase it is, is it possible to have odometer display? I have a windows tablet as my dash display and it shows everything and more than what I need, was just wondering if it was possible to incorporate a odometer to it too! Thanks,
  21. Let us know how you get on installing a cam sensor. I give up with the idea and used the dizzy for the sensors in the end.
  22. All sorted, capacitor was round the wrong way, my bad lol. Put new one in right way and all is fixed and well, no more erratic readings. I will put the earths to sensor ground when I get a minute.
  23. Thanks for reply cj, I think I might potentially know what the problem is! I didn't realise (or look tbf) that the capacitor has to go s certain way +/- and I think it might be round the wrong way so going to look at that today and change out the capacitor if it is infact wrong and will report back. Shall I change to sensor ground then? On both capacitor and sender or just one?
  24. Anyone able to shed some light on this for me please. My fuel gauge stopped working a while ago after some welding on the car (this is what I put it down too) finally got round to redoing the wiring today and it seemed to work ok at first but then started acting erratically and if you move the wiring around the resistors and capacitor it will fluctuate between 0%-50%, sometimes not reading anything sometimes jumping up and down, sometimes just a lower reading. I have the capacitor and sender using earthed to chassis not sensor ground, if this makes a difference and it is wired per the diagram above
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