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Gregconboy158

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Everything posted by Gregconboy158

  1. Gregconboy158

    B18C Link G4+

    You need to set the trigger offset, that'll be your reason. Mine on dizzy is I think 117, cop is 279 trigger offset. Obviously dont take my figures to be right for you, that's just what mine is. At the stock offset mine would run on dizzy but not very well, get the timing light out and set the dizzy to centre, 16tdc on link and adjust the trigger offset until you see it right on the pulley
  2. Thanks Adam all working with pull up on. Now to try and figure out how to get It reading right as atm its 10mph out at 70mph
  3. Ahh Gotcha so maybe the reason is because the pull up is turned off!! Will try it on when I get to the car later and see how that is! Thanks Adam
  4. Thanks will do that once I'm with the car, what do you want a log of so I make sure I get everything you need. From reading on the internet I'm seeing apparently the signal wire on a stock Honda outputs 5v, while mine reads 0v?? I've got 12v to power pin and good earth to the earth pin but 0v on the signal pin at the plug end. If you skip to 3minutes in it explains it in this video
  5. I didnt no, I will try with pull up on and see if it makes a difference. How do I attach map and log?
  6. Hi all, having a right mare with my vss ECU is Honda 95 pnp g4+ The vss wont read on the ECU, I've tried everything I can possibly think of and cannot get it to work. The catch is it used to work!! What I've done is; Changed vss for brand new item, even tried a friends known working vss. Changed the plug for vss, tested it's got good 12v and earth. Changed the signal wire straight to ECU, literally everything I can think of! Tonight I've taken the vss out the gearbox and put it in a drill to rule out a problem in the gearbox, still nothing on the tablet, it doesn't even come "on" in runtime values. Then I took the signal wire out of ECU plug and used multimeter (12v from battery and the earth onto the signal wire) and turning the wheel this pulses 12v-0v-12v !! So why on earth it wont read on tablet is beyond me! I even tried putting it to another digital input, stock on Honda is a/c switch, which I haven't got so swapped this to lf wheel speed and it still doesn't read anything. Sorry if I've baffled on or bits and pieces dont make sense I'm just miffed as to why it wont work and I cant get my head around it. Any help be appreciated
  7. Gregconboy158

    B18C Link G4+

    Are you still using the dizzy or converted to k20 coil on plug?
  8. I've enabled advanced settings and set it to 0 but still does the same thing. I will take a picture at lunch Found one on my phone. I changed the 200 to 0 and still does same thing. Also as said it's like a brick wall, it's hard to explain but its not like you would usually have a rev limiter
  9. Tried to search to no avail. I've a Honda b series, k20 COP link g4+ 95 pnp ECU. Trouble I've got is the rev limiter is coming on about 2-300rpm below the set limiter, when this happens it comes up with "rpm limit activated" Not only that it's like you hit a brick wall, its not like your usual rev limiter. I've tried changing from fuel cut which it was set to originally to ignition cut and no difference. Anyone had this problem? Thanks,
  10. Hi all, got a Honda pnp ECU (b18) which I've just upgraded to k20 injectors on. Just wondering if anyone can help with the master fuel? Currently its stock 22ms from the basemap (untuned currently) and seems quite high. I dont know if my wideband is reading correctly but it seems to be real rich lol. How do I work out the master fuel? I've changed the dead times to recommended for k20 injectors but lost on the master fuel and if I need to change anything else. Thanks,
  11. Wondering if anyone's had this problem before. G4+ PnP civic ECU and I'm having problems with voltage. On idle itll read roughly 13.4-13.6 volts on pclink (haven't checked at battery) but when I turn fan, lights etc on it drops to 12.6v. I'm sure the alternator regulator is working because if you unplug the regulator plug it stops charging and stays at 12v without lights etc (haven't checked with lights on) Was wondering if there is something in the software that compensates for alternator load at all? I can get a log tomorrow if needed. I'm also going to try my friends hondata ECU to see what that reads
  12. Doh lol. thanks Adam to the rescue again! Will try that tomorrow and see how I get on!
  13. As title, I've tried searching and tried everything I can on laptop but cant get it to change from kph to mph. I've changed the settings on both metric and imperial to no avail. It's a PnP Honda civic 95 ECU, has VSS and is listed as "DI 4 LF Wheel Speed (kph)" I've tried changing it on properties but its grey'd out and cannot change the kph. Any help be great thanks,
  14. Thought that might be the case. Thanks Adam
  15. As title really, probably not possible but thought I'd ask incase it is, is it possible to have odometer display? I have a windows tablet as my dash display and it shows everything and more than what I need, was just wondering if it was possible to incorporate a odometer to it too! Thanks,
  16. Let us know how you get on installing a cam sensor. I give up with the idea and used the dizzy for the sensors in the end.
  17. All sorted, capacitor was round the wrong way, my bad lol. Put new one in right way and all is fixed and well, no more erratic readings. I will put the earths to sensor ground when I get a minute.
  18. Thanks for reply cj, I think I might potentially know what the problem is! I didn't realise (or look tbf) that the capacitor has to go s certain way +/- and I think it might be round the wrong way so going to look at that today and change out the capacitor if it is infact wrong and will report back. Shall I change to sensor ground then? On both capacitor and sender or just one?
  19. Anyone able to shed some light on this for me please. My fuel gauge stopped working a while ago after some welding on the car (this is what I put it down too) finally got round to redoing the wiring today and it seemed to work ok at first but then started acting erratically and if you move the wiring around the resistors and capacitor it will fluctuate between 0%-50%, sometimes not reading anything sometimes jumping up and down, sometimes just a lower reading. I have the capacitor and sender using earthed to chassis not sensor ground, if this makes a difference and it is wired per the diagram above
  20. A main problem is you've used ground for coils from the thermostat housing. Change this to one of the dizzy bolts or end cap bolt next to the dizzy. What are you using for crank and cam sensors too? I see no dizzy on there and also no cam sensor bracket/wiring As Adam has said too, you've got the ground in the wrong place. It should be on the threaded part next to where it is. You're doing nothing where it is right now because of the rubber.
  21. Thanks Adam I was using cal8. Will try it on either of them today and report back.
  22. Thanks for your reply Richard, I think I'll leave it as ANVOLT for now. Do you know why when I put the readings in of 0,50,100 it autocorrects to the nearest whole number? Example of mine is; 0.64v - 100% 1.96v - 50% 3.64v - 0% It will change it to 0.6v 2v 3.6v Anyway on stopping it doing this? Thanks, Greg
  23. I got it working using ANVOLT4 on my PnP ecu. What I was wondering was, can I use ANTEMP instead though? I've got 3 spare ANVOLT on the expansion loom which I've currently used all of and I need another! If I had known it had so little 96-98 civic PnP instead of the 95! As that has an extra 3 ANVOLT over my one. If it isn't possible to use the ANTEMP for it, is there any way of adding more ANVOLT at all or is that just not possible? Thanks,
  24. Thanks for your reply Simon, I have a copy of it yes but I've tried a few base maps from the link files and it does the same thing on each one, starting to wish I never went link and stayed hondata lol. In the runtimes an4 doesn't show up and issues but reading is 0.00v. An4 is my fuel gauge and the cal table is calibrated properly and it has the capacitors and resistors in the wiring as per Adam said to do in one of my previous posts and was all working fine. If I measure the wire from sender to expansion loom (an4 in wire) it will show 4.8 odd v I think (around that anyway) I'm unsure if something has gone wrong in the wiring as at empty it should only be 3.64v and full is 0.64v (before stopped working was reading 76% fuel so around 3/4 full.
  25. Gregconboy158

    Corrupt file

    Wondering if anyone can shed some light on this problem I'm having. Last week car started fine as it usual (Honda 95 PnP g4+) went to start it yesterday wouldn't start, then after a few tries a MASSIVE backfire. Thought I'd leave it for today and come back tomorrow (today) Tried again, nope still wouldn't start. Odd occasion it would start then stall straight away so thought I'll try 're upload the map. Same thing, nothing. After a while of checking stuff (Plugs soaking) still nothing I decided I'd last try to upload a cal from the link software and hey presto it started straight up with the previous trigger offset from my tune. Thought maybe just a weird fluke that something happened to the map so let it run up to temp then turned off, tried to start it straight away again and as before, wouldn't start just turned over!! So I do as before and RE UPLOAD a stock link cal and it starts straight up again! Anyone had this type of problem before? It's come out of nowhere and not sure what to do apart from contact where I got the ecu from and see what they say? Also to mention my AN4 (on expansion loom) has stopped working too! Even on the new cal file but AN5 and AN6 still work fine :S which are both on the expansion loom. Thanks in advance
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