Mcfly94

Thought it was wrong but its not. Ford uses Black for ground, green for signal I use green for signal ground and used black for TPS signal, i swapped them to match colours but wasnt even close. Put back to correct per required signal and it works with engine off, will start tomorrow and try again

I also noticed had a couple trigger errors, which im not sure would cause that?

Thanks Adam, I did some my own checks during week before taking some logs, this was a perfectly running car although some recent upgrades, for some background info upgrades were: - Roller Rockers stud mount 1.72 ratio upgrade to Jesel shaft rockers in 1.7 ratio (minimal change) - Injector upgrade from Bosch Modified 1250cc to Unmodified 1650cc (changed Injector data) - Add EMAP, EGTs, Turbo Speed, Crankcase PSI, Better resolution Coolant PSI sensor. - New engine harness in m22759, including upgrade of coil power wiring from 20G to 16G for IGN1A's - Turbo upgrade from S475 T6 1.32 96mm Turbine to S488 T6 1.32 101mm Turbine - Fresh Genuine Bosch 02 Sensor (old one sat around for a bit so didn't want to risk it), Fresh Spark Plugs gapped accordingly - Exhaust manifold gasket upgrade to Copper from old composite, with Ti Studs. - Upgrade MAP sensor from ViPec 2.5Bar to 4Bar Pre start I flushed out the fuel tank with fresh E85. Tonight I set the car to Trigger configuration and checked the Trigger offset with a timing light and confirmed its correct. I did notice the TPS seemed to be not operating properly (Falcon E series slotted) I have adjusted pre load on TPS and calibrated, also calibrated new MAP. Still no change with TPS calibration which I thought was the issue, once calibrated while engine off, the TPS% moves positively as I would expect, start the car and completely different, can crack throttle with it hardly changing and holding it in idle ignition. Two Logs attached, one general rough running, one while I entered trigger calibration and checked timing offset with a light. Also current Tune. I'm leaning towards a bad TPS sensor, it is second hand to me, maybe 5-7years old, not sure if its common for a TPS to fail? At this point I'm tempted to fit a variohm contactless TPS Would love to hear others thoughts Rough Running7.10.23.llg LTD Test Verify Trigger Offset with Light 7.10.23.llg LTD Tune 4.10.23.pclr

Hi guys, I've taken a log of my triggers while running. Ford Windsor V8 Ford VR crank sensor in the 36-1. Ford VR cam sensor. It appears okay to me. Car was previously running fine, made a new engine loom, car started okay, took a few revolutions. Idles okay but as soon as crack the throttle, it appears to be stuck in idle ignition and runs very poorly. I need to verify trigger offset but I didn't remove the cam sync so no reason it should be different. Trigger Scope Log 2023-09-30 4;25;13 am.llg

There you go I knew there was something going on, ive reverted to back to taking up the stream in its entirety, i will workout keypad function another way

From my experience, unless Link update the preconfigured DBC protocol for E888 you may have trouble writing a custom stream to write the compound CAN required to use the outputs. All inputs work, I'm using all inputs on my G4+ Thunder with pre config. I have tried to dissect the CAN to write custom streams and only take the TC over the bus but not having much luck being compound CAN.

Hi guys, so I've got a Link 8 way keypad working with the thunder for selecting a different boost tables, arming launch control and overriding a couple aux outputs (Electric Steer, Oil Fan, EWP) The aux outputs I'm having trouble because it calls for a calibration number when you set a condition as a DI State Being a Link keypad it does not have motorsport firmware on it, thus, I don't have the address for latching buttons. Is there anyway I can configure it to be latching on the ECU end? In addition I have a Motec e888 for TC only and I've disabled the generic DBC in the link and tried to bring in the TCs with custom streams so as to not bring over the DI's on the E888 and disturb the keypad input, I got the first channel working but with multiplexor protocol I think I've missed something with the rest. CAN 2 Steam 7 is the Motec E888 TC's, attached tune if someone can assist with the setup. If I can't get the ECU to interpret the keystates as a latching button would it be wise to add a Razor PDM for keypad control of functions in ECU or even something like a MicroPDM, then move its outputs into DI1-6 on the E888 and solve a couple things at once. LTD Tune 10.8.23.pclr

Thanks Adam, that makes sense totally went over my head, but a simple non issue

Hi guys Got a minor can issue that's arisen since the connection of my E888 to CANBUS Network. The Issue is on CAN2 I have the following devices: Thunder ECU Master CANV3 ECU Master UTC AEM CD5 CANBarra (3rd Part Aussie Ford A/C Integration Module) Motec E888 The V3 is on base ID 1600 and the Thunder is picking data on 1600 and 1602, I've had this working and reading no issue prior to E888 issue. This same V3 transmits all of its inputs to the AEM CD5 no issue. At the same time the ECU Master UTC has no problem with connection and Light Client is faultless in operation. Now I have added the Motec E888 on base ID 240 to now monitor EGTS but I noticed when I connect the E888 the ECU has a hissy fit reading the V3; to elaborate CAN AV1 flickers between a value every now and then and also the digital state inputs I'm broadcasting in the V3 flash their states rapidly. The addition of the E888 and its messing with the Link strangely enough doesn't affect the ability of the AEM dash to read the V3, so I'm wondering if some how I have the Link can setup wrong Disconnect the E888 and the V3 comes back fine in the ECU. I have changed the base ID of the ECU Master V3 so not as to interfere with Motec M1 UTC ID but no change is made, multiple ideas and same symptoms. I have physically measured the voltage of CAN HI and CAN LO; 2.6ish Volts and 2.3ish Volts respectively, also have 60ohms measurable resistance across the bus. LTD TUne 23.4.23.pclr

Can confirm it also works with G4+, An Volt Stream settings are a bit odd had to use a divider of 100 and offset of 10000 to get working with V3 board. ID 1600 is your analogue inputs on the board ID 1602 is digital inputs on the board ID 1603 is your outputs if your using them

I think last time we tried the Idle Ignition Speed Lockout the issue was made worse because Idle Ignition would kick in earlier and the jump from the main ignition table to idle ignition table goes from 35* to 15* and that 20* change made the stall even worse. I've slightly tweaked the main table so that it drops from about 36* to 27* then hits the Idle Ignition table at 15*; hopefully this works. Just still understanding it all, so wondered it if it was do with idle speed control. Ill have a look with the Idle Ignition Table aggressiveness and see if it improves stability at all. Thanks

Hi guys, I'm still chasing an issue on my tune where when its cold returning to idle coming to a stop the car will stall. I've tried heaps of things. One thing that did work was adding 6* more timing when cold in the Idle Ignition Table so that the transition from Main Ignition Table to the Idle Ignition Table was smoother and not resulting in a sharp retard of timing removing air from the cylinders and causing the stall? While this did work the extra 6* timing while idling stopped before take off is less than ideal and the idle is not as smooth. I've since adjusted the Idle Ignition Table back to this Its still currently in 3D as I may be changing the Y axis to Gear to add a couple more degrees to help with the additional load of engaging a drive gear. Nonetheless the car idles much nicer and targets idle rpm with a much lower error in open loop. I recently come across this thread on the forum which got me thinking further about my issue Where the user was also looking to implement more sophisticated strategies to combat return to idle speed dips, so it got me thinking that possibly I'm simply not flowing enough extra air through the IAC on the return to idle to prevent the Idle Speed dip and as a result the stall. I like the idea he discussed in his last post using the target trim table to add extra target idle when returning to a stop; I'm assuming in closed loop the ECU will command higher Duty Cycles to prop the idle up. While not the same I did this thinking its a bit more tailored to my application I based the X axis values on the fact that it takes just over 3 minutes for the car to warm up enough that the idle speed dip does not affect drivability or induce any stalling. So by 4 minutes of engine run time I don't need anything in play to prevent the stall. What I'm stuck on is the RPM trim values (yes I know these are added to base target idle rpm) My current speed lock out on Idle Air Control is 2kph; however I'm thinking of changing this to 20kph to get the Idle Air Control Valve active earlier to start adding air while I'm coming to a stop but not at the last minute just before I stop. At around 18kph the engine speed is around 2000rpm and then by around 5kmh engine speed is around 1500rpm, my thought process was that this table may help force the Idle Air Control to slowly return to 1000rpm cold idle rpm target rather being at 1500rpm at 5kmh then all of a sudden hitting 2kmh and the car seeing a 400/500 target error and pulling air instead of adding it on decel. I notice the user in the thread mentioned above discussed using a timer as the y-axis along with a timer to the table was only active on decel under 2000rpm, would speed not achieve the same thing. Here is a log file that provides example of the speed dip and stall. And also the new tune with the 3D target table mode active. Can anyone help setup the 3D target table to smoothen my transition (or slow) back to my cold target idle of 1000rpm, or any other strategies I could do to prevent the cold idle dip stall?

Like this> Wonder if ill be negatively impacting the tune without ECT as a factor in play

Thanks Adam definitely setup what I wanted, now I should be able to fine tune the gear step I did have the in gear duty cycle only about 4/5% increase, enough to stop the stall but not enough to retain a somewhat smooth idle, going to try a little more and see how it treats me.

Sweet I'll give it a look!