JMP

I've got a length of spark plug lead with a long plug-end on it which can fit down the plug tubes. The other end has a metal crimped over section on the conductor which I push up into the COP boot and then ziptie around the base of the boot so the plug lead stays seated in the COP against the spring. With that setup, I can then use a normal timing light which confirms when the coil is firing and makes it much easier to set the base timing/trigger offset. I have also had the coil out of the motor and fitted a plug into the end of it before then held the thread to the cam cover to confirm spark visually

Strange, if you've got the trigger signal and the coils wired correctly they should be firing. ECU internal voltage can be different than your voltage measured at the battery when you have voltage drop through the system contacts and wiring (EFI relay etc) This is the wiring for the Toyota coils: http://www.kaizengarage.com/images/toyota_coilpacks/CIMG2167_pinslabelled.jpg

The ECCS relay trigger was the main thing to watch out for from memory

Attached is some data I put together when I did a patch loom for a V88 to 33GTR back in 2009, this may be of use to you

will check out the 4D display and ask a couple of the Dev's at work, there's about 5 different Arduino projects on the go there between us and they're much better at this stuff than me

Why do you need two units?

If your fuel system tests out fine (injectors flowing as expected, correct fuel pressure), I'd be double checking your tune for any fuel trims that were overlooked. Also check that the voltage measures the same at the injector plugs and ECU socket. If the trims are all zero'd, tune the fuel table, log it and then monitor from there

you get the male and female superseal connectors from a bunch of different online retailers, eg: http://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/6437288-1/?qs=%2Fha2pyFadugsO3aYQvkzqyA73FIc0jqGKnNNCk9TnW7zM12b4OmC7w%3D%3D Just check the keyway layout for the different parts from their datasheets before ordering.

did a quick check on a stock ZZE122 this afternoon, the THWO output to the dash cluster had a frequency of 2.393Hz, period of 418mS and duty cycle went from 96% cold to 43% at operating temp. The vipec in the ZZE I've done only goes down to 10Hz for the GP PWM output so I'm going to give it a test next weekend and see what happens. Attached is a snipped from a 1hz service manual referencing the THWO output. I'm going to setup the table with 85% duty at 30deg, then linear decline to 45% at 80deg and extrapolate it from there. Will be good if it works

I doubt it would work given it doesn't have a trimming resistor

I was looking into this a bit more today and realised you can set one of the vipec outputs to a general purpose PWM signal. I'm putting a scope on a stock car tomorrow to measure the THWO output to the dash, but from memory it's a PWM signal with the duty cycle increasing with engine temp. If that's the case it will be possible to wire the output to the THWO pin in the stock loom, then set the output to General Purpose PWM, set the on condition to ECT > -50, then in the PWM 3d table set the load axis to ECT and put in the appropriate duty cycle to drive the gauge to where you want it. I'll confirm the frequency and duty cycle for various temperatures soon.

where do you have the lc1 and gauge grounded? it's really easy to get a ground offset between the LC1/Gauge and ECU, so you have to be very particular with the wiring. when you connect the laptop directly to the LC1 via serial, does the reading match that of the ECU?

I'd be replacing the wiring first, potentially with a shielded run. There's quite a few places around that sell the toyota/sumitomo terminals used in the speed sensor plug and AMP superseal pins so you don't need any solder joins in the loom.

Congrat's, glad to see you got it working

When I was testing I just used a V88 on the bench with power and ground connected, CAN data started flowing as soon as power was applied

Excellent to see Link's standalone CAN wideband coming. Have a couple of builds on the go I need to buy widebands for

if it's a new build I'd definitely be checking the compression as those stupid lifters are problematic

cars generally start easier rich than lean, try adding more fuel correction to cold start

does it work fine on the stock ECU? I did a SR recently where it was running really poorly, turned out it had lifters which wouldn't bleed down and were holding valves slightly open, verified with a compression test and then leakdown test.

what happens when you depin the TPS wire from the ECU header? Could be a fault in the loom Does the 5V Out (V) field in Runtime Values > ECU Status also read 10V?

it works with just the two CAN wires

http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/42173082/2JZ-GTE%20VVTi%20JZS161%20Aristo%20Engine%20Wiring All the info you need is on Wilbo's site

to test if the idle ignition is having an impact, I'd turn off ignition idle control. If it still plays up, I'd then set it to open-loop idle and tune the base position table. Once the base position table is right I'd then enable closed loop, make any fine adjustments as required, then enable ignition idle control for that last level of refinement.

no need to do anything special for the map sensor calibration, just select it from the interface and it's a very quick and easy operation. My understanding is that the MAP is compared to the onboard BAP with the engine off where they both should read pretty close to 100kpa depending on sea level

always do a MAP calibration and TPS calibration when you switch ECU's, I also do a trigger check to ensure the timing offset and delay don't need a tweak. I'd also open two copies of VTS side-by-side, open your current map in one and the map from the old ECU in the other. Then run through each setting screen one by one and ensure that all items are identical. You will likely find a new configuration item or two that have been introduced in the new firmware that need to be set correctly.