Fredrik Pettersson

Can we get some help on this ? The dual vanos uses the same trigger wheel design for both cams. Putting the Vvt settings to m52 preset allows me to control the exhaust cam(although at idle the position oscillates) The intake just keeps logging errors with either too many pulses or too few pulses, can't really remember So whatever settings the m52 preset has for the exhaust cam works. heres a pic of the exhaust trigger And heres one of the intake(as you can see they are basically thesame) on a side note; I have my 2nd trigger set up as cam pulse 1x , how do I know the engine runs fully sequential ? Before I had it set to none and I can't figure out if it's running fully or not

Add a 250rpm column to your fuel table , set the values for 0 and 250 rpm at 0 above 80% throttle. crank enrich etc shouldn't matter if base value is 0. I have it setup like this, not sure if it works though as I've never managed to flood the engine

You can use maf and map  maf for idle/Cruise and map for performance ,  dual fuel/ign tables and you are good

Aha I see boost by gear is effective and simple so it's Worth a shot let us know how it turns out

You have 2 options ; 1. Remove distributor and install coilpack to let the G4 decide timing 2. Don't use G4 ignition , you will have zero control of ignition but you won't have to change anything. peraonally I would go with option 1Â

Paul ; switches on the festbord sounds like a viable option , another option is to set up wheelspeed sensors and use %slip to limit rpm(dunno if it's usable for boost control , you would need dual boost maps with the second as overlay though so you can have %slip vs rpm vs map ) Hope I don't confuse  you , there are a lot of ways to do this

Speed is meant for wheels iirc(km/h) beware that just using rpm vs ds rpm will allow you to over boost the engine. personally I would set up the boost table to be as good as possible and then retard ignition based on di5 frequency. hope it helps

If the color of your G4 is red then you have the red box. aux 9&10 only exist on the silver box

Why are you going with the itb's? The m54 performs worse with them unless you do some serious headwork Do you have CAM sync working ? I was Talking to someone before WHO managed to get it working but I can't get it to sync as for the itbs vacuum you'd need a vacuum channel post tb connecting every runner , if this vacuum manifold for the BB does this then that is a good place for the map.

The lc-1 has one narrowband output and one wideband output I've got My lc1 Brown output(wideband) connected to AN Volt 3 (1:Map,2:Tps) and i've got a separerate AEM wideband gauge with it's own sensor. iirc the yellow wire is a narrowband signal and you cant use it as wideband. furtermore i dont think you should ground the lc1 to the ECU ground since it says in the manual to ground at the same point the ECU is grounded. The lc1 heats the lambda sensor through it's ground..

Do you use a boost controller ? If so you need to tweak it . if not then you should go over your wastegate setup

Stock ECU behaves just like link does, the difference is how it's setup. your tuner should be able to easily fix this by tweaking links functions(iat,ect,idle closed loop/open loop,ign idle target etc all play in) If you disable the afr target and set up idle without corrections and then enable corrections and tweak them as you add them you should be able to get it right. cheers // FredrikÂ

I Owe you bigtime Mike that did the trick. First time i tried it didnt want to connect so i got kind of sad but now all is well Thanks // FredrikÂ

So i tried updating my firmware today from 4.9.1 to 4.9.8 All Went well until the cycle Power phase , i cycled the Power once , still got the 'cycle Power'Â message, did it again and got message that cycle Power failed and ecu was running unknown code, making it 'skip main stage' and telling me to redo the firmware. Â Trying again ust freezes pc link so i rebooted the pc , unplugged USB and turned off the ignition. Â When i now open PCLink i ust get 'Searching for ECU....Connected....Disconnected' over and over. trying to get into the firmware updater just freezes PClink. Any help on this ? Â Thanks // Fredrik

Im running seq(360) on a 6cyl bmw m54 The multiplier runs really low which is my concern (0.17 i belive gives me the right tacho) But again this causes the rpms to not go below 1200rpm on the tacho. Â Running fully seq injection(720) might help but i cant figure it out how to do so since i just get trigger errors setting it up or no engine starts.

Hello Long time since i posted but im having a problem with the tacho output. I currently run it like this (to have tacho sweep) Engine cam sensor (1-1 per 720deg) to LINK Trigger 2 LINK Tacho output to stock ECU Stock ECU expects a 1-1 signal per 720deg and then sends the signal through CAN to the Tachometer The Problem is that the LINK is set to fire once per Ign event , is there any chance we could configure it to fire per revolution ? Im currently running it with a 0.17 multiplier which makes it work, kind of (rpms wont display below 1200rpm) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNCeIXXf0po (Engine off , gauge gets stuck at 2k during ceremony)

ID1000 = Bosch 1000cc I rather key in the numbers manually (every quality injector should come with a sheet) then trust a preset. It's great you americans are finally getting your hands on ethanol

So i've been trying to get my engine to sync to the 720degree engine cycle, the engine is a BMW M54. Setting up trigger #2(on intake cam , cam is controllable) i can either set it as Cam pulse x1 with a 620-690 degree offset but then i get 'Error too many pulses'. I assume i need Cam Level signal , but as soon as i do this the engine wont fire up , only cough and backfire, i've tried adjusting the injector timing from 20 to 600 degrees with no success. The trigger wheel looks like this(half missing/half tooth) :

Frankly i dont know how to set up a PWM to pulse with every other RPM. And yes i could share the stock sensor with the dme , but then i wouldn't have any keysweep function

So im using My link to send a tacho output to my stock dme(as it sends the rpm signal over can bus). When doing this i either need to simulate a 60-2 or a ½ signal(cam) , i wired it up to the cam sensor but since i get 6 signals for ever crank rev(i need 1 signal every other rev of the crank) i need to run a very low multiplier (0.17) and i suspect this is too low for the link to handle since my rpm gauge wont go below 1.2k rpm while driving. Other than that it works perfect , so i ask you link gods , is there any way you could add a function to select how many pulses you want to send the techo? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNCeIXXf0po  Cheers // Fredrik

Actually googling BMW S50 Firing order shows you it's 153624

1-5-3-6-2-4 Is what BMW's used for all their I6'es , dont think the Mgruppe would change that.

Yeah , they used to answer really quick on here , something must have happened. Motec is a nice choice aswell , abit more expensive though

Thank you Karim ! As to a basemap , is there any avaliable for a BMW Inline 6 that i can use and then tune of ? Thanks // Fredrik

I wrote a long reply but my internet died and all was lost. Anyway the Extreme only has support for 2 solenoids , i don't know if you can wire the rest as General Purpose PWM's though. Cheers // Fredrik