Cameron Moore

Hi Frank, I have just tried on the bench and the ISC-C should output a square wave with nothing connected. It will be between 12V and Ground at 180Hz. The duty cycle will depend on the values you have set for Idle hot and idle cold. It will not output a signal unless you have an RPM signal and your throttle is closed. If you don't have this possibilities could be: You're checking the wrong wire. The circuit could be faulty Your TPS is not setup correctly Your idle settings are wrong. Good Luck -Cameron

Hi Stevie, They are both power grounds and should be run separately to the block. Sensors should be grounded back to the base of these black wires near the ECU. Page 18 in the manual shows this well. Hope that helps. -Cameron

Hi Frank, I'm not sure why you're mentioning the ISC-O wire as that should not be used. I think the problem you are having is that the ISC-C just provides a ground, and this won't give you the square-wave signal that the ISC may be looking for. To counter this you can wire a 1k ohm resister to 'pull-up' the voltage when the ECU is not grounding the pin. This will go between the ISC-C wire and 12V and can be done at the ISC end or the ECU end. Once this is applied you should then see a 12V square wave signal and the duty cycle (time on vs time between pulses) should increase and decrease with idle control. Good luck -Cameron

Hi Craig, The ECU will use it's trigger inputs to measure RPM. You will then set an Auxiliary output (set to GP output) to ground one side of the solenoid (the other side should be connected to an ignition switched 12V supply). You can then choose what RPM the solenoid will switch on and off at. You can start by using the RPM that the factory switches it at, or do a dyno run with it on and compare to a run with it off. Then select the RPM range where the performance is better. -Cameron

Hi Phil, Looks like the bucking is happening when you're coming out of the fuel cut at 1600rpm. In your ignition table at 1500 it seems to be alternating between the 20 and 40 kpa zones, the 40 zone will create more power and increase the vacuum dropping it into the 20kpa zone where it makes less power and the vacuum drops away. It should probably be tuned on a dyno to hold it in those areas and get fueling and ignition correct. -Cameron

Hi Phil, Is the bucking occurring when you put your foot back on the throttle? (I can't see anything that would constitute as bucking while in overrun). The fact that it happens with or without the FC suggests it is some other issue like ignition timing. Another thing to check would be MAP delay, if the MAP hose is too long or has fuel blocking it, that can cause bucking. If you are using cheap silicon hose then it can collapse under hard vacuum as well. -Cameron

Hi Phil, Was that first log with the overrun cut on or off? -Cameron

Hi Ryan, Good idea to check your pressures. Might be worth getting your injectors flow tested to make sure they are all running correctly. -Cameron

Hi Scott, What it was probably doing was picking up the second widest slot as well as the widest slot, so effectively 2 syncs which would definitely cause problems. It is probably worth doing the ECCS test function to accurate measure your widest slot, if you're using the RB30 sensor it could be different again. -Cameron

Hi Phil, Overrun fuel cut is there to stop the bucking you experience when you turn it off. Any particular reason you've turned it off? It gives you engine braking, if you give it fuel it probably would try to accelerate downhill when you take your foot off the throttle etc. Looking at your log your injector pulse width is still dropping dramatically suggesting that the area of the fuel table you are going into under overrun is lacking the fuel to keep your AFR's where you want them. -Cameron

Hi Scott, Sounds like an issue with your CAS or CAS setup, what value do you have for your ECCS widest slot? Maybe post your PCL? Cheers -Cameron

Hi Jan, If it's a 2 wire push/pull we can't actually control it (but I haven't seen any like that before). It's probably just a standard solenoid, partially open for a permanent bleed (eg enough air for 600rpm, fully open 1200 etc). If that's the case then the only consideration is if it will flow enough air for the engine you are wanting to use it on. -Cameron

Hi Ryan, I have tried this on the bench and Overrun Fuel Cut does seems to turn off okay. Just because the numbers in the fuel table match does not mean you should get the same fuel delivery, one of the biggest differences is that if you are in vacuum, your fuel pressure regulator will drop the fuel pressure meaning the same pulse width on your injector will deliver less fuel. If you make a log of it using PCLink I'd be happy to have a look and see where the issue is coming from. When you say 'lean' do you mean full scale lean, or just leaner than it should be? -Cameron

Hi Phil, Yes, you're correct that's the window opening and closing. -Cameron

HI Phil, For antilag to work correctly you need air to flow through the engine when you've backed off the throttle, this air is used to keep the turbo spooling, and the antilag retards the timing so the air expands more when leaving the engine rather than in the engine. The rotational idle is there to stop the engine reving to 3000+ rpm with all the extra air bleeding through. In most cases the ISC doesn't flow enough air and that's why people crack the throttle open. What some people do in your case is use a solenoid that moves the throttle stop. They activate this when they turn antilag on for the track. This way the engine idles and runs normally on the road, and gains antilag on the track. Another thing you need to be aware of is with antilag keeping the engine under boost all the time, you might not be making vacuum, and if you have vacuum assisted brakes this can cause issues on the road. We always recommend that antilag be set-up and tuned by an experienced tuner, what area are you in? -Cameron

Hi Abd, Yes a value of 1 deg for the widest slot is a good sign that the 360 deg signal is connected to Trig 2 instead of Trig 1. If you've switched it you should be fine now. -Cameron

Hi Jean, Apologies for that, it used to be called reload, but that confused some people so we renamed it to 'Restore to factory settings' but it seems we forgot to update the instructions. I'll get someone to do that. -Cameron

Hi Matt, There have been a few 'visibility' issues on older PCLink versions which should now be corrected. As you say, the pin doesn't even exist on the G3. As all G3/G4 units use the same firmware, units with less outputs have the extra ones (like AnV11) hidden, where a Linkplus G3 has it available. Not only do the smaller versions not have the physical pin for the input, but it also lacks the supporting hardware (filter and buffers etc) on the board, making them cheaper to produce etc. -Cameron

Hi Todd, The tacho is not controlled by the factory ECU, so it's probably from the ignitor/coil as you say. -Cameron

Hi Frank, From those results you appear to not have a push-pull type. The ver7 solenoid http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac236/linkelectro/subaru_ISC.jpg has some 'smarts' inside it and you should just be able to wire it as per that picture, the 'To ECU' pin goes to ISC-C and ISC-O is not connected to anything. -Cameron

Hi Bob, What you have there is a 'G1 Linkplus V10'. This is covered by the following manual. http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/g1-engine-management-documentation/LinkPlus%20V14%20manual.pdf To connect to it you will need a handcontroller (we don't make them anymore) or a Serial Link for PC connection (available from your nearest dealer). "Plug and Play" would depend on how modified the car it previously ran was, if identical to yours it would be fine. With autos it depends what info the auto-box needs, some just need an rpm signal which we could handle, some are run completely by the factory ECU which we aren't able to emulate. In Victoria, AVO in Morabbin should be able to help you tune that ECU. -Cameron

Hi Ari, It seems you've got 'Trig2: V VTi' set to 'Inlet /LH'. Try setting this to 'Off' as you won't have VVTI on that engine. Let us know how that goes. --Cameron

Hi Jean, It seems you didn't read the G3 to G4 Upgrade instructions. 7. Connect to the ECU and perform a reload on your ECU, all data will be erased. · G3 ECUs have channels named Load Input. G4 ECUs have renamed these as AnVolt channels. This causes G3 AnVolt channel numbers to differ from G4 AnVolt channel numbers. For example Load1 becomes AnVolt1, Load2 becomes AnVolt2, Load3 becomes AnVolt3, AnVolt1 becomes AnVolt4, AnVolt2 becomes AnVolt5... etc. The reload should fix those inaccessible AnVolts, if it doesn't you can use the map attached and then copy your setting over the top. Hope that helps -Cameron

Hi Phil, Good to know you found the issue. Injector drives will work as Auxiliaries with the car not running (they are sometimes used to run fuel pumps/engine fans). But as the ECU just provides a ground it may be that power is not supplied to the relay by the factory circuitry unless the car is running. -Cameron

Hi Abd, What value did you get for your ECCS widest slot in step 13? -Cameron