tiago
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Posts posted by tiago
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Hi, I have a Subaru Sti that is having the engine rebuilt and while it's not done I am planning to use the Link G4+ that I already have, to run my other Impreza 1999 non-turbo.
I already have the connector to create a jumper harness and be able to use it as a plug-and-play unit.
I am trying to figure out the Link G4+ pinout, can someone help with it? I realized that the G4X manual was updated and now it includes all the pins. I need something similar for the G4+.
Subaru V5-6 WRX/STi - Link G4+ Pin Link ECU Function B134-1 Aux 1 Fuel Pump Relay B134-2 B134-3 B134-4 Aux – Ign 3 Fan Relay 1 B134-5 Aux 6 Idle Stepper Motor B134-6 Aux 5 Idle Stepper Motor B134-7 Ignition 1 Ignition 1 B134-8 B134-9 B134-10 B134-11 B134-12 B134-13 Aux – Ign 4 Fan Relay 2 B134-14 Aux 7 Idle Stepper Motor B134-15 Aux 8 Idle Stepper Motor B134-16 Ignition 2 Ignition 2 B134-17 B134-18 Injection 4 Injection 4 B134-19 Aux 2 Wastegate Solenoid B134-20 B134-21 Aux 1 Not Used B134-22 Aux 3 A/C Out B134-23 B134-24 B134-25 Injection 3 Injection 3 B134-26 B134-27 B134-28 Aux – Inj 5 CE Light B134-29 B134-30 B134-31 Injection 1 Injection 1 B134-32 Injection 2 Injection 2 B135-1 DI 2 Pow er Steer Signal B135-2 DI 1 Start Signal B135-3 B135-4 B135-5 B135-6 B135-7 B135-8 B135-9 B135-10 B135-11 DI 6 A/C In B135-12 B135-13 B135-14 Aux 4 Tacho B135-15 B135-16 B135-17 B135-18 B135-19 B135-20 B135-21 B135-22 B135-23 B135-24 B135-25 B135-26 DI 3 Vehicle Speed B135-27 B135-28 B135-29 B135-30 B135-31 B135-32 B136-1 An Volt 2 AFM Signal B136-2 B136-3 B136-4 B136-5 B136-6 B136-7 An Volt 1 Factory MAP Sensor B136-8 Aux - Inj 6 14V Main Relay B136-9 B136-10 B136-11 B136-12 B136-13 B136-14 B136-15 B136-16 B136-17 Ground B136-18 B136-19 An Temp 3 (V1.1 PCB ONLY) B136-20 An Volt 3 TPS (Main) B136-21 An Volt 4 Oxygen Sensor Signal B136-22 B136-23 B136-24 B136-25 DI 4 Ignition Sw itch B136-26 Knock 1 Knock sensor signal B136-27 B136-28 An Temp 1 ECT B136-29 B136-30 B136-31 B136-32 B136-33 -
Hey guys, after less than a year the o2 sensor that came with the AEM 40-4110 stopped to work properly. Doing some research I discovered that most likely it was because I had it wired on the ignition on and when the car is not running the sensor heater was always on and it could shorter the sensor lifetime. To avoid this problem on the future I found 2 options:
1) Using the Link Can that has the power to manager it;
2) Wiring a relay on a GP Output to power the sensor only after the engine is running;I ended picking the AEM X 30-0300 to use it over can.
The choice of the AEM X instead of the Link CAN is due the price (Link is almost 2 times more expensive in my region) + couple of weeks until it arrives here.I found a bunch of information about it but in many different posts, so decided to centralize here.
AEM X 30-0300 Wiring
Relay Wiring to Link Aux Output
GP Output Config
Questions:
1) Do I need to twist the CAN Wires from Link to AEM X 30-0300?
2) GP Output: Is the RPM > 1 condition the best strategy for this application? -
On 1/19/2020 at 9:39 AM, dx4picco said:
Is that possible to keep the ver 5-6 throttle body and change the ICV to a 3pin solenoid one? which one would work?
There's no way to use the 3 pins sensor with the V5-6 throttle body.
The best way to do it would be swapping the entire intake with throttle body, fuel rails, fuel injectors and everything else.
I just did it and it's not a simple job. I also changed the coils to the coil on wire instead of the coil pack.
Will require some rewiring.
Basically what I did:
On the ECU B134 connector, swap:
B134-14 to B134-4
B134-15 to B134-13
Config
Ign 3 and 4 => Ignition 3 and 4
Aux 7 => Fan Relay 1
Aux 8 => Fan Relay 2
Aux 5 => ISC
Wiring:
Ign 1, 2, 3 and 4 wired to the coils
ISC Signal to Aux 5 wire
throttle body map to the oem map wires
Beside that you will need a longer intercooler hose and some trim on the bottom part of the water reservoir to be able to attach on the same place. -
6 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Im not convinced. In your latest log the lambda seems to drift higher and higher as time goes on but the inj pulsewidth is quite stable. Im not sure if I would trust it personally but if you do then it looks like your fuel table needs a bit of work as the lambda is a long way off target.
I'm using the V7 base map.
For sure my fuel table needs work.Will try to drive to the shop and have an experienced tuner take a look on that.
Thanks for the help!
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On 2/25/2020 at 9:26 AM, remski2 said:
2nd thing.. you never leave the post start enrichment.
Log shows 5 mins your ECT peaks at 50F.
I get 160F around 5 min mark.
Seems like your ECT sensor is plugged in somewhere else.
Thanks @remski2 you were correct.
My ECT and TPS had a bad ground. Fixed it and now is way better.
Looking at the last log I noticed that the MAP is reading ~5psi at idle. Is it correct?
I'm asking because I changed the map from the 3bar Link to the OEM one.
@Adamw after a while the lambda started to work. Not sure if it could affect but the car was parked for several months.
After the engine warmup it looks like that the wideband was working properly.
The last log:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lyvn97d0x3ofuov/Log 2020-02-27 7%3B40%3B25 pm.llg?dl=0 -
On 2/20/2020 at 11:18 PM, Adamw said:
Can you attach your tune also. Does the idle speed drop to an acceptable RPM if you unplug the idle valve?
Hi Adamw, I noted that the ISC was set to be opened 100% at all time.
After adjusting it the idle is way better but now it's reading very lean when the rpm goes up. Tried to increase the master fuel but did not help.
Log
https://www.dropbox.com/s/80jup0dlbn83dai/Log 2020-02-23 6%3B28%3B20 pm.llg?dl=0 -
I did the tests and found that 2 cylinders was wrong.
Changed the wires and now it's way better. The idle is pretty high tho. Probably because of the new bigger injectors.
I played a little with the main fuel value but was not able to get a significant result.
Next goal is to make the car driveable to be able to drive to the dyno.
Last Log: (too big to attach it here)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yqacslelb48zcno/Log 2020-02-20 7%3B10%3B32 pm.llg?dl=0 -
On 2/17/2020 at 4:57 PM, Simon said:
Your trig 1 and 2 inputs need to be swapped over. The 4 way dip switch on the board does this. You just need to reverse the positions.
Thank you Simon, it worked!!!
The engine started but looks like some cylinder is not working properly. If I give some gas the rpm is not going up easily.
Since the coils wiring is new, what would be the best way to test if everything is working properly?
Can I check the ignition status from the logs? Or best way to confirm it is to removing the coils and checking for the spark. -
Hi all, just finish an intake swap on my 1999 Sti and I'm trying the first start.
I'm using the 2005 intake and the major differences are the ISC Solenoid, fuel injectors (sti top feed pink) and the individual coils.
Did a try today but no success.I'm seeing a log or Trigger Errors, not sure if it could be my problem or would be something else.
What I did was merge my current configuration with the Subaru V7 Base map. I thought that changing the fuel injector and coil configuration would be enough to start the engine with the new mods.
Any clue?
Log 2020-02-17 2;09;37 pm - 5.llg Subaru 99 Type RA - New Intake.pclr
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8 hours ago, Richard Hill said:
If it is a 3 wire ISCV then it might need 2 auxs. If this is the case, it will need aux 1 and 2 as they are the outputs which support master slave ISCV.
HTH,
Richard.
Based on the base map for the Subaru V7 it's using only one Aux for the ISC.
Did some research and looks like the 3 wires Subaru ISC work like a 2 wire valve.Take a look:
8 hours ago, neil brown said:Depends on what year
ver3-4 3 wire Iscv
ver 5-6 6 wire iscv
presume it has ver 5/6 inlet he would have went to newage set up with coil on plugs setup with later throttle bony with combined iscv
Correct, I'm using the newest model that has the throttle body combined with ISC and MAP.
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1 hour ago, cj said:
So the next question then is, with the old intake (that works with an OEM ECU), does the link still work? I'm guessing not given you test with power straight into the ECU, but you will need to fix that issue on the new intake before you connect up a fixed Link or you might break that too.
At a guess, you didnt have the ground from the left of the chassis (by the fuel lines) connected. On the older intakes it bolts through one of the intercooler mounts and if you dont have it connected, you get that dash staying on issue as its some important part of grounding the chassis.There is one on the right behind/above the air box which can either go to an intake bolt or to the top of the heads, depending on who last installed your engine.
Other thing to consider, is are you using your original wiring and connecting it to the new intake, or did your new intake come with all the wiring attached? That wiring loom contains 95% of the engine->ECU connections, and i'd imagine the pinouts are different between years.
At the time that I did the video the all the intake wires was disconnected (the 2 big connectors near the battery) it could explain the ground problem. I was more interested to test if the Link was ok and wanted to check all the wires with a multimeter before connect it again just to be safe.
I'm not using the original wiring. I am using the new wiring that comes with the new intake. I opened the new wiring and removed all unnecessary connectors/wires and matched (on the 2 big connectors) all the wires with my old one.
The new intake has a wiring for the map that my old one didn't that I will use. Also the TPS and idle control valve is different. The new ICV has 3 wires and the old one 6. So I will free up aux (5, 6, 7 and 8) by using the new ICV.Aux 5 - will be used on the new MAP
Aux 6 - For the ICV
Aux 7 and 8 for the Fan Relay 1 and 2And the Aux - Ign 3 and Ign 4 (that was used by the Fan Relay 1 and 2) will be used for the coils to be able to use Direct Spark.
As you said the pinouts is very different and that was my error (shame on me). I did a try using the new intake wires before check everything and on that moment that the fuse blown and the link stopped to work.
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7 hours ago, Stevieturbo said:
What exactly happened that caused the issue in the first place ?
Can you plug in a standard ecu, just to prove the car side of things is now healthy again ?
I'm doing an intake swap (intake, throttle body, fuel injection and coils) from a newest model and wired something wrong.
I wired a negative from the ecu to a positive. After that the fuse blown and everything stops to work.
I double checked all the new wires and now it's ok.
The car will not run with the oem ecu anymore unless I swap the intake back. -
12 hours ago, Adamw said:
As CJ says it is most likely a wiring problem based on the dash lights. Quickest way to confirm the ecu is ok is to remove it from the car and power it up on the bench with a couple of test leads. Easiest way to power it up is to find the big barrel shaped tvs diode near the main header, clip +12v to the leg on the striped end and clip ground onto the other end. You will see the led light come on if all ok.
The marks on the mosfets in your picture are just air bubbles or runs in the conformal coating.
Did the test powering the big diode as on the picture but there's no led on.
I think its dead
Thanks guys, I think now the last think to do is send it back to be repaired.
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Hey guys,
There's some way to check if the ecu is burned?Like a check with the multimeter?After a bad wiring (Subaru Sti 1999 V6) I burned a fuse (SBF n5 30A) and after that I am not able to connect to the link anymore.With all wires connected to the ECU, if I turn the key to on the rpm (on the dash) is not moving like before.After turn the key on and move back to off the dash lights start to blink like some energy was being sending (check the video link please).How can I confirm that it's burned (or something) before I send it back to for repair?Last, check the picture, is this little "dot" on the transistors some bad indicator? Is it normal?.jpg.f1434389bc9b963bceb729a81d3610dd.jpg)
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26 minutes ago, Simon said:
You have to use ign 1-4 for the coils if going individual
Move the engine fans over to the freed up Aux 5-8 drives
Do I need to wire ign 1-4 to the respective cylinders?
Like:
ign 1 to cylinder #1
Ign 2 to cylinder #2
Ign 2 to cylinder #3
Ign 2 to cylinder #4
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Hey guys, I decided to swap my intake manifold from a sti V6 to a V7 to get ride of the ISC stepper and also I removed the coil pack to use Direct Spark.
What would be the best approach to wire the coils?
Use the loom Ignition Drive 7 and 8 + the current Ignition Drive 1 and 2.
Or
Could I use Aux 7 and 8 for the coil since I'm not going to use it anymore?
Or better rewire the Engine Fan to use Ignition Drive 1, 2, 3 and 4 on the coils and move Aux 7 and 8 for the fans?Any other tip or advice on that?
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On 7/12/2019 at 12:58 AM, Adamw said:
The Ignition drives are only pulled up to about 6V when off so effectively you have 12V on one side of the LED and 6V on the other so some current will flow. A couple of options you could try:
Try connecting the +ve side of the LED to the ign drive and the -ve side to ground, then reverse the activation logic. The LED will then see 0V when "on" and 6V when "off", I think this will then work correctly.
Another option would be to leave the LED wired as it is now but add an extra pull up resistor to 12V (on the ecu side) so it has 12V on both sides when off.
The 3rd option would be to swap the ignition drive with one of the proper aux outputs which have 12V pull-ups. For instance you could move the fuel pump wire from aux 1 to ign 7 then use aux 1 for the LED.
Thanks @Adamw for the clarification.
The option 1 worked, but it was not bright as I was expecting.
So, I guess the option 2 will be more suitable since I don't wanna re-wire anything else.
Could you please guide me about the pull up resistor? I just need to add a resistor on the ECU side to transform the 6 to 12v right?
What would be the best value for the resistor? (tried to find it here but no success)
Thanks! -
I added a Led warning light for water temp and oil pressure but looks like the ground is “leaking”. Even when the aux is off the led stay on (but not at full power/light).
To wire the Led, the positive is wired on a random 12v and the negative to the link, loom Ign7 and Ign8.
I tested the led before using the 12v wire and grounding it at the chassi and worked fine.
Am I doing something wrong?
.thumb.jpeg.c53cd8b168beb602a9ca07ac2c0e72ca.jpeg)
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On 3/20/2019 at 5:15 PM, Adamw said:
Connect to the factory knock sensor wiring. Bosch 0 261 231 006 is a common wideband part number.
In my case (WRX 5-6) my factory knock has only one wire and the new bosh knock sensor has 2.
Should I rewire the bosh knock sensor to the extension loom to have the signal + ground or can I just use the factory connector plugging it to any pin or the new knock sensor?
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Also, what would be the correct model for the Bosch sensor?
Will this one be the correct for a Subaru (EJ20)?
Bosch 65018
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Hey guys, I'm looking for some advice about drive the car to the shop to get a tune.
First I need to drive 7km only using the downpipe to get my exhaust finished. Later more 35km to the shop to get a tune.Not sure if it will be safe and don't wanna take the risk.
The mods that I have is:
- Catless downpipe
- IAG AOS Competition
- Mac 3 ports boost solenoid
- Aftermarket air filter
- 3bar link map
Did a log and drove back and forward inside the garage and sometimes the AFR looks hi.
Could it bring me problems if I drive slow and not boosting?
Also after touch the throttle the idle status shows (Hold - RPM Lockout) and the RPM stay around 1500. I tried to solve it but I'm not too confident to do it myself and think will be not a problem drive like that right?
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On 1/10/2018 at 4:45 AM, TimmyD said:
Regarding your item 2 - When I start the engine (hot) the idle stay at 900 rpm but if I depress the accelerator it's going to 1500 and stay around this value...
Could you post a log file that includes the 'good idle' ie before you blip the throttle?
This might show what the cause is (maybe!)?
1. Take a look at the log.
I tried to figure out but no success.
Log 2018-01-12 12;18;27 am.llg
3. Lambda Problem
I wired it wrong, just changed to the correct AN input and started to work. -
15 minutes ago, ClintBHP said:
1. Your 'Engine Fan 2' does not seem to be set up on any inputs and is set to come on at 0 degrees so will always be on ? You have Engine Fan 1 and Engine Fan 3 set to Ignition Drive 3 & 4
2. Your MAP has the default Throttle Settings, you will need to perform a calibration before the throttle will work properly.
3. Your Lambda output seems to be stuck at ground, you will need to check the wiring, and if correct measure the output of the AEM with a voltmeter. What AEM part number do you have.
1. I tried to play with the fan (2 and 3) configuration but without success.
3. I tried to change the AEM ground from body to a random black wire from under the dash but no success to read values too. Thinking about getting a direct wire from the engine block, should I try it? My AEM model is 30-4110.
Will post an updated log and configuration today late. Thanks guys!
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Hey guys, just installed a G4+ on a stock Subaru 2000 Sti Type RA and I'm having some problem.
I'm not a professional but know the basic things and wanna learn deeply about that.1 - My Engine Fan 2 is always on. When I turn the key to on position it's turned on too.
2 - When I start the engine (hot) the idle stay at 900 rpm but if I depress the accelerator it's going to 1500 and stay around this value.
3 - Looks like my wideband O2 sensor is not working properly. I can not see the values changing and the Log shows it always at 0.686. I guess something is wrong with that. I'm using an AEM and used this post as reference to configure:
My AEM ground is on the body, not sure if is that the problem. Would be better plug it on the GND on XL Loom?
.jpg.f1434389bc9b963bceb729a81d3610dd.jpg)
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Pinout Help - Using a Subaru V5-6 WRX/STi to run a USDM Impreza 1999 RS
in G4+
Posted
Thank you for the replay @Adamw.
Checking my Link board, I can see printed on it V1.3 and a sticker showing PCB REV V1.5.
I am assuming I do have the 1.3 board.
Since I will not run the MAF plus a bunch of other oem stuff, I ended up with this configuration. The red rows are things I will not be using.
I will be adding IAT and MAP later, just trying to figure out the basic oem stuff first.
I have a couple of questions:
I also have this editable file, if you prefer take a look at the editable spreadsheet:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uAMqdqBd-K18KtJRfYD8YoncJ6ZWb2UfyDar15K4iGw/edit?usp=sharing