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BMW E46 M3 S54 Dual VANOS wiring

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BMW S54 Dual VANOS wiring

Hello

I am currently trying to control the S54 VANOS using a link ECU.

Wiring information for BMW VANOS solenoids is published in the PCLINK help file, but it seems to be slightly different from the actual S54 VANOS solenoid wiring.

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The Wiring diagram: Wiring Information > Output Wiring > Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoids > Specific VVT Applications > BMW VANOS Solenoids
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The wiring diagram shows the red cable from the inlet and exhaust cam retarded solenoids, but the actual S54 VANOS solenoid does not have a red cable. Cables of three colors, green, black and brown are connected.
Is this red cable connected to +++ S50 VANOS Solenoid +++?

The help file also states that “Pins 2 and 5 on the connector must be changed to be supplied with '12V key on' rather than ground as wired by the OEM”.
However, pins 2 and 5 of the solenoid are brown cables and are connected to Aux outputs 1 and 3 of the link ECU in the wiring diagram.

Can someone tell me the correct connection between the link ECU and the VANOS solenoid?

Regards,
Masap

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I think you are are mixing the S50 and S54 wiring info.  The picture at the top of the page is for the S50.

I dont know the colours of the factory wiring but the S54 Vanos solenoid should be wired as follows:

Pin 1  Inlet retard Aux 1

Pin 2  Ignition Switched +12V

Pin 3  Inlet advance Aux 2

Pin 4  Exhaust retard Aux 3

Pin 5  Ign Switched +12V

Pin 6  Exhaust advance Aux 4.

Diodes must be removed as per the help file.

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Hello !!
I'd like to install a S54 in my E36 and use a Link ECU.

I've been curious about this exact issue. Would you be so kind to point me to reference material so I can start researching how this is done?
I'm considering doing this project later this year, I plan to buy a crashed car and swap things over.

Once I have the stock engine running on the Link ECU, I'll pull the engine, then start building to the class rules.

Thanks
Chris

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Hi,

i am using a325 e45 dual vanos  engine and manual in a kit car,I have the full engine loom and throttle pedal loom plus ECU,what i don't have is the wiring diagram to connect ECU into main power source/loom,can anyone tell me how I make the ECU live

Thanks

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21 minutes ago, monstergarage62 said:

Hi,

i am using a325 e45 dual vanos  engine and manual in a kit car,I have the full engine loom and throttle pedal loom plus ECU,what i don't have is the wiring diagram to connect ECU into main power source/loom,can anyone tell me how I make the ECU live

Thanks

What ECU are you using?

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This forum is for Link ecu's, the wiring for your OEM ecu will not be relevant in any way.  If you want to put a Link in it we can help, if you want help for the BMW system then you will probably have more luck on a BMW forum.

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Hello,

 

When I have my wiring match the below listed I am having running/ idle issues. If the exhaust side is switched( pin 3 advanced, pin 4 retard) and the map is set to 0 the vehicle will idle and run. I feel like there is something simple I am missing but cannot find it. 

Pin 1  Inlet retard Aux 1

Pin 2  Ignition Switched +12V

Pin 3  Inlet advance Aux 2

Pin 4  Exhaust retard Aux 3

Pin 5  Ign Switched +12V

Pin 6  Exhaust advance Aux 4.

 

could someone also please show an example of there exhaust vvt map?

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Are the cam positions following the commanded angle?  You would be better to attach a log and the tune so we have something to give us some clues.

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on log 507 the wiring was reversed and the car was "derivable" ext vvt map everything was set to 0

on log 6,12 I wired correctly and imported a ext vvt map but had to set it at -30 to idle or run. I got some adjustments briefly until you should see it return to 0 in the log and the vehicle would no longer run. 

s54 fury fuel cut.pclr Log 2020-05-7 6;12;53 pm.llg Log 2020-05-7 5;07;52 pm.llg

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The offset on your exhaust cam is a bit odd, normally with the cam home (fully advanced) the offset is about 20-25deg, yours is 56 which is 30-35deg more retarded than what I would normally see.  Has this engine been apart?  Is it possible the exhaust cam sprocket is 2 teeth out?

I have only done a little bit of work on one of these engines locally and that ran fine with the exhaust cam at 0 under most conditions.  

Can you do a triggerscope at idle.

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This is what I am starting to wonder. what is odd to me though is with the exhaust wired in reverse. the offset set to 25* and the map on all 0. The car will idle and run fine, The exh lf solenoid is at 57.5% dc(which should be retard) and position reads -29* but there is no Err counter. 

So if I am thinking correctly the cam is being advanced at a 57% duty cycle and is still -29* from 0

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I think I would need to see the triggerscope to know if the cam is advanced or retarded.  50% DC means both solenoids closed, hold cam position.  Greater than 50% means advance (no matter which cam). Less than 50% means retard (no matter which cam).  So if "exh/LH solenoid" says 57.5%, then it is trying to advance the exhaust cam, the pressure bleed solenoid (aux 4) should be open. 

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I check cam timing last night and the exhaust was spot on. Intake might have been a few degrees off which would match up with the 104* reading. What is odd is even though I selected 6 on the cam angle test it still displayed 7? 

20200508_173550.jpg

20200508_170947.jpg

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Your exhaust cam is in the fully retarded position in that trigger scope.  If the Exhaust solenoid was showing positive duty cycle when that scope was taken, then the cam should have been fully advanced.  Is it possible you have the advance/retard solenoids wired in reverse?

FYI, when in the normal home position (fully advanced) the edge that I have highlighted in pink below would be somewhere around where I have drawn the green line (~2 teeth before the missing tooth area on crank).

GloeyG5.png

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When I received the vehicle all vanos was wired in reverse. After I corrected the intake it has operated correctly but when I wire the exhaust per the help files as well as this post the vehicle will not start or if it does it will not stay running.

When it is wired correctly I do see the cam position go to 0* as apposed to -30* on the log.  but I am not able to keep the vehicle running. In the previously attached logs I was able to get it to run wired correctly but I had to set the vvt table to -30.

In a nut shell the vehicle will only seem to run with the current configuration if the exhaust position is -30*

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So when you took that triggerscope above was the exhaust solenoid wired correctly or not?  Was it at idle or not?  If it was wired correctly and was idling below the VVT lockout then the advance/bleed solenoid will be open and the retard/pressure solenoid will be closed so it should be fully advanced.  Something is wired wrong or mechanically wrong if the cam goes full retard when the ecu is commanding the advance/bleed solenoid open.

These engines normally idle fine with exhaust cam at zero.  The last one I worked on liked the exhaust cam to be at zero until about 30% throttle.

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The previous scope the ex vvt was wired backwards. The car will not run if wired correctly. When wired correctly the position does move to 0 though

 

This is with the exhaust VVT (aux3/4) unplugged. I am still showing -30* and running ok. When I check timing the other day the spiral gear was all the was out on the exhaust side (not sure if this is correct) but the cam position was correct.  According to the help files the offset should be around 25 which is what mine is set to. everything then looks like it is indicating the cam is retarded 30*. Am I missing something when I am checking timing? its pretty straight forward, pin the crank and set the tool on the cam.

 

sorry for some of the poor post or communication. long weeks have been getting to me.

vvt test off.png

vvt test on.png

scope 4.jpg

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Yes from the triggerscope and the screenshots above it does look like the reported cam position of -30 is correct.  With cam at zero your triggerscope would look more like the one I drew on above.

So it sounds like when its wired correctly the ecu seems to be able to control it correctly. 

So I guess you need to find out why the engine doesnt like to run with the cam at zero like would normally be expected.  I dont know the internals of these engines well enough to know if there are any tricks that could result in the cam timing being wrong but the cam position sensor still showing correct - like a drive pin sheared or the triggerwheel lose or something.  You might be able to look at google images for a quick eyeball compare of the physical position or your lobes at TDC compared to others. 

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quick update,

 I found the exhaust vanos unit seals where completely shot. After rebuilding the vanos unit the cam angle test gave me an offset of 12*.

With everything wired correctly the vehicle was running but under more of a vacuum than the previous fuel map was scaled for. With a few adjustments and increase in fueling the vehicle is now running with a cam position of 0*, wired correctly.

Thank you for your help and information! now its time to start re-tuning!!

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