NotJustToast Posted December 13, 2019 Report Share Posted December 13, 2019 Hey guys, just got my 3sge beams engine running in my corolla with the Link g4+ monsoon and a harness built by Panic Wire. I'm having some issues with my Link Can-Lambda unit though. There was originally an OBD plug with the power, ground, can H, & can L wires I needed for the 02 in the Panic ECU harness. So I cut the plug out and soldered a new extension to the 4-way deutsch lambda plug. I originally had the wires mixed up due to the wire colors being different than the link pin diagram. Panic uses the universal can-obd wire colors. It is now wired with 12v to the power and 2.4v for both can H & can L. He also said it should be fine that I connect straight to those 4 wires and do not need a relay or capacitor. Now the issue, in the "runtime values" the CAN tab shows all green/ok but in the ECU STATUS the lambda 1 error displays 26 battery under voltage, then 33 open circut APE-IPE, and 16 heated too long. The status goes back and forth from diagnostic to calibration and the temperature back and forth from 32f to 750f or so. AFR always reads 10.08. Voltage is around 13.5v. I also setup the can setting to the link ecu specifications on the site. I will attach a log file showing the info and could use some help with this. Should I wire it differently, was the unit damaged by having the pins mixed up at first, or are there some settings I should change? Any insight would be most appreciated and thanks for reading. lambda error.llg beams.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 13, 2019 Report Share Posted December 13, 2019 Error 16 & 33 are the common errors that pop up when the power supply is either weak or has a lot of inductive noise. The addition of the Error 26 makes me think in this case it is probably more a current supply issue than a noise issue. Make sure that the 12V supply/ground is decent sized wires (18AWG+) and they come from a relay that is preferably connected direct to the battery. If the power supply looks like it is ok size wise then it may be getting upset from some other inductively noisy item connected to the same circuit, in that case you can either add the capacitor as per the quick start guide or move it to a cleaner supply such as direct to the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotJustToast Posted December 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2019 Thanks. I used 18 awg for all 4 wires so that should be fine. I will try wiring the power to the battery distribution block with a relay and the 12v power I'm using now for the 12v switched. Let you guys know how it goes tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotJustToast Posted December 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2019 On 12/12/2019 at 10:55 PM, Adamw said: Error 16 & 33 are the common errors that pop up when the power supply is either weak or has a lot of inductive noise. The addition of the Error 26 makes me think in this case it is probably more a current supply issue than a noise issue. Make sure that the 12V supply/ground is decent sized wires (18AWG+) and they come from a relay that is preferably connected direct to the battery. If the power supply looks like it is ok size wise then it may be getting upset from some other inductively noisy item connected to the same circuit, in that case you can either add the capacitor as per the quick start guide or move it to a cleaner supply such as direct to the battery. Alright, I got a little busy with this holiday stuff but was able to rewire the lambda with the relay. Took it on a 1.5 hour round trip and the Lambda seems to be wired properly but still not working. In the CAN status everything is green/ok. The ecu status tab shows lambda 1 status ok, lambda 1 error ok, lambda 1 temp F 1438, but only displays a 10.1 AFR. Now when I first started it up and drove it the error 26 low voltage was present but after a restart it did not show any errors. What should I check next or has the unit been damaged from my original incorrect wiring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 18, 2019 Report Share Posted December 18, 2019 Can you give us a new log and map again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotJustToast Posted December 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2019 15 hours ago, Adamw said: Can you give us a new log and map again. Alright Adamw, when I first started the car cold today the lambda status was off and the CAN 1 status showed the acknowledge error, error passive, and bus warning error. I then turned the motor off and turned the key to accessories and power cycled the 02 by unplugging the 4-way deutsch lambda plug. The Can 1 status now showed all ok after plugging it back in. Then I warmed the car up, shut it off, and recorded these 2 different logged starts. The first one has the 33 open circuit APE-IPE and the 16 heated too long errors but still operatin ok. The second one just has the 26 battery under voltage and operating ok. Both display the same afr that does not change. Thanks for all your input so far! lambda error 11-18.llg lambda error2 11-18.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo Style Posted December 19, 2019 Report Share Posted December 19, 2019 (edited) It is necessary to turn off lambda 1 of AN3 Edited December 19, 2019 by Neo Style Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotJustToast Posted December 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2019 1 hour ago, Neo Style said: It is necessary to turn off lambda 1 of AN3 Please give me some more details about "turning off lambda 1 of an3". I would guess that if I turned off lambda 1 of an3, the afr would not show a value...right? Or do you suggest to turn it off then back on? Or move lambda 1 to a different analog volt number? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 19, 2019 Report Share Posted December 19, 2019 No analog input should be set to "Lambda 1" since you have Lambda 1 being transmitted into the ECU via CAN. If you have nothing connected to AN3 then it should be set to off. If you do have some other analog device connected to AN3 then you can set it to Lambda 2 instead. It still appears there are a few errors related to power supply but let us know how it works with AN3 turned off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotJustToast Posted December 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2019 That did it! I went into the an3 settings and it was set to lambda 1. Turned it off and then started the car. I'm now getting a constant afr/lambda readings on my pclink gauge now. Very awesome and thank you both for the help. Now time for some quick tune driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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