Basic steps Tricks

[Chipset]

Hi i want to ask the experts about the basic steps - tricks for the proper tune . My car is a Silvia s14 (sr20det) and i have all rdy made it to nice point where most of the map is good but because the whole tune made by me alone on the road , driving - logging ---> fix the tune and repeat i manage to make my tune perfect only on those places-spots on map that im usually while driving out. What i mean is that my afrs are rock solid under constant coast and wot which is easy but are so unstable ( lean rich ) in places that i cant hold long the engine on the road ( almost full vacuum etc ) So i decide to go to a dyno and make let say my map (s) in 500 rpm steps until i reach 0.5 bar boost and then complete my 0.5 ++ map by logic (so that i don't have to stress my car too much on the dyno) . What i want to ask is what most of you do when you are on a dyno and more precise how do you handle the correction maps like IAT correction. As we all know on the dyno the temperatures are much more higher than on the road. Do i have to temporary disable IAT corrections and tune on the dyno in small steps ( let the car cool down and restart ) or do i have to tune using those correction maps ? Thank you very much for every answer that i may get

[Dynotech NZ]

You must tune with IAT corrections enabled!! The std IAT settings work well in most cases

[Darryn Green]

Hi there,

 

Im not sure where you are located but this may be of some use to you, I did the last course and I learnt alot

http://www.speedtechnz.com/Training/EFI+Tuning+Stage+1.html

 

I have done alot of road tuning on rally cars etc and you should be able to tune all the map you will use on the road providing youre brakes are up to the task! I use a innovate wideband kit for logging, you can set it up to log so you end up with a table the same as the fuel map but with the afr in each cell, so just one run throught the map holding in each cell for a couple of seconds using the brake and accelerator to let the afr stabalise and be logged, then just calculate what you have vs what you want and change the fuel number to suit, after a few runs you will have it sorted, ignition map really needs to be done on the dyno but can be done on the road providing you have a knockblock or similar,

 

as for ya car getting too hot on the dyno it isnt really a problem as each run doesnt take that long and it puts no more stress on ya car than tuning on the road

hope some of that helps!

Darryn

[Top Tune NZ]

my trick was to spend 200k to buy the dyno and charge for my expertise lol a good tuner  will have it sorted fully in less than 4hrs on the dyno