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Nice tip Ducie54. I was pulling the 12v+ from a spare "Power supply to ECU (from Battery)" in the factory loom. The heavy gauge wire showed a good 12v source when ignition was on but as you suggested, under wideband heater load it dropped voltage. Wired it directly into the fusebox and it works a treat. Heats to temperature in 5 seconds odd, giving believable AFR changes with a bit of butane blown past the sensor. I'm a bit surprised that the Link status Lambda 1 Error = OK even if the voltage is low. I tested with the 12v disconnected and it will still show "OK" as the status which is a bit misleading. Good to know the symptoms and how to troubleshoot em. Thanks for your help.

Sourced 2 of those above sockets and a plug. Used one of the sockets at the ECU and made an extension lead to get to the sensor. All looks good and buzzes-out well. Should I see heater temperature and Lambda in PCLink without the engine running? Internal Lambda 1 - Sensor Control = ON, Run When Stalled = Yes Lambda 1 Error - OK Lambda 1 Status - Calibration Lambda 1 Temp (C) - 0-2 It stays like that for 20 seconds then changes to: Lambda 1 Error - 16 Heated Too Long Lambda 1 Status - Diagnostics Lambda 1 Temp (C) - 0-2 It makes sense that after some time of not getting to temperature it would turn the heating off but was expecting that I would see some heating in that first 20 seconds with the ignition on. Is there a way of testing this before engine start? Log 2018-09-8 3;05;17 pm.llg

Bingo. As you all know, intermittent faults can be a nightmare. Happily found this one though so am posing the punchline in case someone else finds this thread with a search. Carefully soldering and heat-shrinking all the 86 pins on the 3 factory connectors I managed to dribble a solder spatter into the middle of the plug (doh!) It was small enough not to notice, big enough to cause a 70 ohm "short" intermittently so it got past my previous conductivity testing. I'm just glad I hadn't filled it with epoxy yet! Thanks heaps Adam for the help in isolating my oops from the ECU. Andy.

Good news - that was a simple test that worked. ECU now shows "5V Out (V) 5.00" and I can also measure 5V+ at that pin (A32). Now to go through the wiring again to see what I missed last time.

Thanks Adam, I'll test that tonight when I get back. yeah, the superseal connectors are good for removing a pin, that's about the only thing I didn't think of in my frustration. So for future reference (and I'll make a test loom) what was the minimum wiring needed to fire-up the Fury?

I'm wiring up a Fury and all was going well (see: before.jpg) and next morning, without any changes and nothing touched I turned the ECU back on and it looked like this (see: after.jpg). Faults are: [10:33:03 AM] ECU Fault Code 74: Analog 5V Supply Error [10:33:01 AM] ECU Fault Code 73: Aux 9/10 Supply Error [10:32:59 AM] ECU Fault Code 47: An Temp 2 below Error Low value [10:32:57 AM] ECU Fault Code 44: An Temp 1 below Error Low value [10:32:54 AM] ECU Fault Code 35: An Volt 9 below Error Low value [10:32:54 AM] ECU Fault Code 32: An Volt 8 below Error Low value [10:32:52 AM] ECU Fault Code 11: An Volt 1 below Error Low value So it seems that Fault 74 is causing all the sensors to error which makes sense. It also seems that Fault 74 is because 5V is shorted to ground. I removed the sensors one by one (no difference) and checked the wiring (no problems found). Then I removed the Link A&B connectors from the ECU to see if there was anything connected to ground (Link A 25,34 and Link B 25,34 are the only pins earthed and they were meant to be) So I can't find any problems in the wiring and am starting to wonder if the ECU has a problem with the 5V. What is the minimum wiring needed to run the ECU to test the ECU 5V channel? Link A5 (14V+) Link A25,34 (Ground) ...and then test the 5V+ on Link A32?

Thanks Adam, I had a feeling/distant memory there was something else going on in the connector but couldn't find it. So just extend the wires from the B plug on the ECU and add one of these to the end of it would be okay?

I need to extend the Bosch LSU 4.9 wiring to reach the Link Fury. Is there any reason I can't just remove the Bosch connector (ie: nothing "clever" in the plug?) and then use my own 6 pin plug/sockets. (I searched a lot of posts before posting but didn't find anything)