ayjayef

While I have large camshafts I think my MAP looks pretty stable. At which point would it look unstable (mostly at idle?) and how much change are we talking about? Attached is a log of idle, 4000rpm load, and idle again. MAP seems to be following TPS and would have guessed I shouldn't need BAP/MAP crossover? log20181116-4k-b-load-fuel-tune.llg

Makes sense, I'll do that. It's already non-linear in the tiny openings and as you said, not much changes after 30% I have some old ramp runs done on this engine with the factory ECU so I'll use those to build the direction. Ta, great tip that increase is proportional to torque. I should be able to guess the peak torque area values and then fill-in the blanks. I'll spend a bit of time getting that to make sense. Yes, and this one has a bigger supercharger in it. Currently set to: Load=BAP/MAP Xover. I'll change it. Current Fuel Equation Mode = traditional. Current Open Loop Lambda Table = off The Help Browser for Open Loop Lambda Table shows "Can't Reach this page error" so I had left it off. Can't find it in the search function of the help file either. I'll turn it on. Currently set to: MGP Thanks for the guidance Adam.

anyone got an opinion?

Spent the day on the dyno and got some good load numbers in the Fuel Table. I'm not sure I "trust" the 1500 column as it looks too fat and the dyno cavitated a lot at everything under 2000rpm The 6 cells in 0%-2.5% TPS and 1000-2000rpm is the idle window, intentionally leaner than the rest of the table. I'll be back at the dyno to do some pulls into the higher rev ranges but it would be good to have something sensible in there so I'm only tweaking AFR's instead of running a super lean plasma cutter. So questions are: 1: Under 6000 rpm - do I highlight a few known good cells and extrapolate left to fill-in the missing areas I couldn't load tune? 2: Higher than 6000 rpm - extrapoate right or should I make some guesses in the 14000-15000 columns and interpolate between them and the known good? Interested to hear people's thoughts. Andy. 2017 Kawasaki H2-014.pclr

Good to hear I'm not the only one ever to be confused with that. Even knowing to imagine another wave in the missing teeth gap makes my brain hurt. I can see it sometimes. That fixed it! Was 245deg and now -119deg offset (after a 4deg timing light adjustment). Trigger scope during idle looks good and NO TRIGGER ERRORS! Starts easy now, timing is steady, idle is good. Now we can actually start tuning. Thanks for your patience and odd hours troubleshooting! Log 2018-11-12 9;11;38 pm-idle.llg Trigger Scope Log 2018-11-12 9;08;33 pm-idle.llg

okay, so not a win (yet) grounded both the triggers shielding to Link A7 and swapped the polarity of cam trigger 2 Can't even start it now. Voltages on the "cranking" trigger scope attached here are really low so I reverted the arming threshold to the original numbers which might still be too high for this low a signal? Is trigger 1 the right polarity? It looks the wrong way around on both these logs too but it depends if the first drop low is the right signal (i'm getting confused!) Trigger Scope Log 2018-11-11 8;36;09 pm-cranking.llg

Good one. thanks heaps Adam and Steve.

I totally missed that help page, perfectly clear now. (it's an amazingly great help file) Bike will rev to 14000 odd so in the sample above the 5000,6000,7000 with the same values will extrapolate to the same value through the whole rev range. Is there a need to expand that table to cover the higher RPM's? (or do I wait to see trigger errors higher before guesstimating?)

Yes, not connected to anything. Connect to ECU? Do you mean ground/earth it to the chassis or connect it to Link A7 "shield/Gnd" where these two sensor grounds terminate?

Wrong polarity? It's the same as Kawasaki already had but I'll change it and see. Yes, trigger scope was at idle. What sort of bump are you thinking? It's currently 0.75V at that RPM for both trigger 1 and 2.

So... it appears that most of my rough idle grief is trigger errors. They were only intermittent but on last 1/4 of the attached log they are pretty constant at one a second or more. I tried to catch one using the trigger scope but don't think I did. It's attached here anyway. I'm using double shielded (braided and foil) 2 core microphone wire for both the crank and the cam sensors direct to the ECU (not through the factory loom) so I would hope it's not noise. The shielded wire is near full length except for a couple of inches at the sensors and about 6 inches from the Link A plug. Not a lot of choice where they run but there is nothing really near them. Questions: Can I tell if its the crank or cam sensor or are both lumped together in the "trigger 1 error counter"? (I can't find trigger 2 error to log) Do I need to ground the shielding at one end, both ends or not needed? (currently not grounded) Can I find more info on what the errors are? 2017 Kawasaki H2-008.pclr Log 2018-11-10 7;32;31 pm.llg Trigger Scope Log 2018-11-10 7;32;04 pm.llg

I can't help with Kiwi4 but I've played around with quite a few ODB2 bluetooth devices in the past including the Kiwi3. The gotcha with the Kiwi3 is that it used "low energy bluetooth" which isn't compatible with everything (which is why some of the other threads talk about working on this device but not that). Seems someone in their wisdom took a working bluetooth spec and split it into a few different versions that don't work with each other. Cheap ebay Chinese ODB-II devices are hit and miss and I've had a really good one that worked till it randomly stopped. Don't know where on the planet you are but in AU/NZ the Jaycar ones work well on everything I've tried them on without lag. https://www.jaycar.com.au/obd-ii-engine-code-reader-with-bluetooth-technology/p/PP2145 ...and they have a good return policy if for some reason it doesn't work on your setup. They also sell a wireless one that I've not tried but it might suit your setup better if you are using a external GPS or another device on bluetooth at hte same time. A bit off topic but Race Chrono is a killer app for ODB-II bluetooth. Race track video with odb-ii data overlay, lots of tracks in there or you can mark-out your own. You will get best results using a higher frequency external GPS (10hz) as phones typically use a 1Hz GPS.

That makes sense, ta. Bingo! Yes, I had to near double his crank enrichment numbers to get it cold started. Now I know that's some sort of "normal" I'll be less worried about how much fuel I dump in there. Thanks Adam.

Hi Adam, my urge to get some comparable numbers in the main fuel table was to see what the crack enrichment actually was as it's a percentage of that table. Pre-crank prime (because I'm using "Key-On") seems less useful to me as turning the key off and on disconnects the PCLink and induces additional lag reconnecting before starting the engine. Maybe I need to look at triggering pre-crank prime using the starter switch? Trickier to get to in loom but might make sense. Crank Enrichment @ 70C was set high and still wouldn't work. At what point do I hydraulic a motor adding too much fuel? Heatsoak should be okay, IAT was around 20C in the plenum but throttle bodies, valves, head etc would be higher when ECT is 70C Is there a rule of thumb with E85 vs petrol volumes during prime and enrichment?

If I had a WRX there are plenty of base map files in the PCLink software which are useful to other owners. I don't own a WRX so wanted to compare his map (same bike, similar setup) as I'm having trouble starting the bike and can get it running by randomly dumping lots of fuel in the Crank Enrichment table (similar to pouring fuel in the air cleaner of a hard to start car). It now starts nearly reliably at ECT 20C with 140% crank enrichment and starts at 40C-50C with 120% but restarting when it's hotter than that is unlikely.

Okay, so I have someone else's fuel table (similar setup but not the same) and want to compare. My Master fuel is set to 4ms (running E85) His is set to 10ms (running pump) If I multiply his Fuel Table by 2.5 (for the 2.5 times difference in master fuel) and then multiply by 1.35 (for 35% E85 difference) Should the numbers compare? Adding to my confusion, I have larger secondary injectors which are set to 63.9% in the Sec Injection Staging Table @ 40% TPS and I have 1.770 Sec/Pri Ratio in the staged injection where he runs the same injectors top and bottom) so is 50/50 and 1/1. Does that change the my fuel numbers before the Sec Injection Staging comes in? I'm struggling to get fuel numbers that make sense.

--- EDIT --- Getting it to idle now! Zeroed the ISC Base Position table and just tweaked the zero APS row of the E-Throttle 1 Target table. Still lots of work to be done but it's heading in the right direction.

Yeah, it's E85 (prob should have mentioned that). The high number in the master fuel was just me adding a pile of fuel to a petrol base map to get a starting point. Now I understand why the idle was high then leaning out it will be easier to make adjustments and add things like the enrichment to the log to see what's going on. Great tips!

Hi CJ, I'll adjust the ignition table, that makes sense. I had planned on multiplying the fuel table to get a better table resolution, thanks for confirming I should. Bingo! - Post Start Enrichment was the bit that I didn't understand. I thought something was adding fuel for a short amount of time but didn't know where to start looking and everywhere I looked wasn't doing anything. Makes way more sense now I know what I'm looking for. I had seen (somewhere) a table/image of the startup process but can't find it now. Thanks heaps for the reply.

Fired the bike up, was good to hear it run again. Starts okay from cold, goes to a higher then normal idle and then after 6 seconds the revs start to climb from 1800 to 3000 then 6 seconds later it noses over and stalls. This is a Fury running an internal wideband (which is working) and CLLambda is set at 50C. (so no logged CLLambda adjustments) I was tempted to lower the CLL ECT lockout so it auto adjusts but I suspect I should be fixing the issue instead of hiding it. Can someone please make a suggestion of where to start tweaking?

(red faced) - Yeah, that would do it! Coils didn't come with any info, google wan't much help but I found a picture of connectors. Dumb mistake. (still red faced) Thanks Adam.

Hey all, I'm going around in circles and I'm sure someone here can help me make some sense. Trying to test a Nissan R35 smart coil on a G4+ Fury. I can hook a dumb coil up and get a tiny spark using the PCLink ignition test (no igniter) so I know the Fury trigger and the wiring from the ECU is okay but I can't for the life of me get a test spark on the smart coil. Picture below of the coil, ground and power are being run direct from the battery (using awg18 wire), white runs to Link-A10 (Ign4) and there is a alligator clip connected to the ground electrode and engine ground (not obvious in my crappy picture) The pulse on the white wire, is 10Hz as the test should be. Any ideas why it's not working? Andy.

Good stuff, that clears it up. Thanks!

Matey, I'm not sure about anything... I've got to open my wallet to check what my name is most days! I was working off the factory boost gauge that shows MAP in the plenum and it never goes under 100%. Backing off, the vacuum opens the wastegate and the plenum is at ambient pressure (I guess). Once the wastegate is closed (ie: back on the throttle) the boost is always positive (ie: idle is 101% on the factory gauge) so I'm assuming I'm never under 100Kpa The Link 4 bar sensor is 20Kpa-400Kpa (I think I read that somewhere)? So is 20Kpa okay but 50Kpa too high? Andy.

Found this thread while researching the same sensor. Can you please explain why 50-400Kpa is no good for a petrol engine MAP? I'm looking for a similar one for a supercharged engine that's always positive pressure so should not be under 100Kpa absolute. I'm confused!