Dualxeon64
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Posts posted by Dualxeon64
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Would the pins for these 2 wires be 2 of the 3 that went to the old iacv?
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I have a Ford throttle body eith a 2 wire idle control valve. The stock was a 3 wire and I could not find anything on how to change to a 2 wire. Was hoping to delete or that it would not be needed since the factory iacv delete with my factory ecu did not cause issues. I live in a hot climate which is why I deleted in the past.
Is there any documentation on changing to 2 wire from 3 wire?
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Here is a log that i could get to upload here. I have a better log but it was to big to upload at 1900Kbs
backfire then shutoffLog 2021-07-1 9;55;11 am.7z MR2 FLEX TUNE rev2.pclr
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While driving when I push the clutch in the rpm will drop to around 50rpm and sometimes stall. Is there a way to prevent rpm level from going to low?
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On 4/24/2021 at 3:06 AM, Adamw said:
Tha MAP sensor looks wrong to me, it drops to 9kpa in some areas which I would say is almost impossible for a 30year old engine. Are you sure it is a Link 5 bar map sensor fitted as per your settings?
Warm-up enrichment isnt even active in your log so that is irrelevant, although I agreee with essb00, it is a bit odd to have it based on MAP.
Replacing the map sensor fixed this issue. Thanks for all your help
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33 minutes ago, essb00 said:
Your lambda is oscillating (going too lean) because of the warm up enrichment table being based on MAP... Try changing the Y axis of your warm up enrichment table to TPS instead.
Also your post start decay time table values seem to long. Try 0 second on all so that cold start would transition immediately to warm up enrichment.
...Also try increasing your master fuel a little bit.No affect actually seemed to make it worse as it would start then die right away.
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When I first start my mr2 the idle will go up and down and then stall repeatedly until the temp reaches around 110F then it will just go up and down until around 130F and then it will slowly smooth out. The cold start i normally will start the car after it dies about 6 or 8 times before it will stay running.
I am including a log file and the tune please let me know what i have wrong. if nothing then that will help me in checking other mechanical or sensor related.
LinkEcu g4 st185
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2 hours ago, Adamw said:
Are you on ethanol or petrol?
I suspect a smooth idle at 900RPM with 272 cams and 2200cc injectors might be asking a bit much if running petrol. Ethanol might get there.
But Im a bit suspicious of either your wideband or Injectors too.
I am running e85. I expected some lope maybe bounce 50rpm up or down from the center. So 100 span but the current bounce is far more. I'll take my injectors for flow and leak test and see what the results are.
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6 hours ago, Adamw said:
Your lambda is pegged at max rich 0.68 Lambda, so that would be its even richer than displayed - it is not going to idle well like that. What happens if you lean it out to something more normal? Also your manifold vacuum is only 68kpa, does it have big cams or is the cam timing out or something?
Yes it has big cams. Brian crowder 272s.
When I try to lean it out it still stays pegged even tried adjusting fuel pressure. Only changes if I raise the rpm above 2k the it leans out. This leads me to possible injector issues.
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47 minutes ago, Adamw said:
So what is the actual problem? You said the idle bounces up/down but it is a flat line in this log +/-50RPM.
Yes it will be plus or minus 50 then it will drop 100 or 200 then come back up and go up plus 100 or 200. Cannot get it to be consistent. At this point there is no sensor or wire I have not replaced or tested. I can run a longer log if that helps. My tuner says with the current idle it is untenable.
54 minutes ago, Adamw said:So what is the actual problem? You said the idle bounces up/down but it is a flat line in this log +/-50RPM.
Here is longer log file, I can clearly hear the idle be consistent then jump and come back or drop and come back.
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7 hours ago, Adamw said:
Your MAP sensor isnt working in that log, so that would be the first thing to fix. The lambda sensor isnt working either but that is not going to influence idle - just will make tuning difficult.
Here is a picture of the injector information and I included the log as well.
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Sorry wrong log here is one from right now
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I have a linkecu g+4 st185 on a 1991 toyota mr2. I have been trying for over a week now to sort this issue. I have tested my injectors to make sure they are working. I have checked and confirmed stable spark, checked wiring to injectors all seems to be right. I have even tried using only one pump then the other pump to see if its a fuel pump issue. So this is either an issue with an ecu setting or maybe my injectors are not being consistent. Any help to figuring this out would be awesome. I am including my current tune which is not complete because im stuck at the idle issue. I am including a trigger capture it wont let me attach the log says it exceeds file size.
Here is the log file
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19 hours ago, Adamw said:
Were
10 hours ago, Dualxeon64 said:No click with on off, on low frequency. The new solenoid arrives today I'll test with the new one and update the results.
Update new solenoid arrived and I got it connected and it is working. Must be something wrong with the other one. Its brand new I guess shipped faulty. I'll talk to the vendor.
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9 hours ago, Adamw said:
Were you using a low frequency such as 10Hz when testing the solenoid? If you just do test On/Off (not PWM) do you hear the solenoid click?
No click with on off, on low frequency. The new solenoid arrives today I'll test with the new one and update the results.
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1 hour ago, Adamw said:
Yes, the auxes are pulled up to 12V, so it will be 12V when off and gnd when on.
Actually just rethinking my reply above, since I dont know what sort of test light you have, Im going to change my advice. Connect one side of the test light to +12V, connect other side to Aux 3/pin 8. Test light will be off when aux 3 is set to off, and glow when set to test ON.
Okay so the test worked on it glowed and off it was it was set to off. When set to pwm it flickered so maybe the solenoid is bad?
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4 minutes ago, Adamw said:
I would suggest the next step is put a test light on pin 8, it should light up when Aux 3 is set to off, and turn off when aux 3 is set to "Test (ON)".
I will try that.
Should there be power at pin 8 aux3? Right now it shows 12v
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3 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Yes pin 8 is Aux 3. So if it is connected to aux 3 and you set it to test PWM and set the frequency to 10Hz, you dont hear it clicking?
No clicking just silence. I thought it might be a faulty solenoid and ordered one just in case but decided to bench test and it seems to function correctly so now I'm just lost.
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On 9/11/2020 at 9:32 PM, Adamw said:
I would probably set the frequency to 25Hz in the boost control settings, but apart from that it will just be tuning.
I have not been able to get this solenoid to work. I benched tested it and it opens and closes like it should. I have 12v to 1 wire and the other wire to pin 8 as the book says to do. I tried putting it in test pwm and nothing. I do note that pin 8 also has 12v to it. For the 91 toyota mr2 st185 is pin 8 correct?
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So I have the power connected and the other wire to aux 3 on the ecu pin by what is provided but it shows that the boost solenoid is off. Is pin 8 the correct pin?
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Is there anything on the ecu I need to change?
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I have a 3 port 2 wire solenoid and I am trying to sort the wiring for this.
I have 1 wire to pin 8 for aux3
The other wire does it go to power or to a ground? Or does it go to a di expansion port?
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23 hours ago, Vaughan said:
if it 5.56 between the ECU pins but 11V from chassis to ECU Pins then bad ground, if 5.56 from chassis to ECU pins as well as between then the fuse, relay or power wiring.
The main ground for the engine goes from the gearbox to the chassis beside the side gearbox mount
That shouldn't be getting hot, a short in the engine loom could cause that though. I have had an mr2 loom fray, break and short out in the past.
The ECU power is also used to power the fuel pump, Boost VSV, TVIS VSV, ISC Valve, EGR VSV (if present) and O2 sensor (if it is a 4 wire one). The Check connector +B pin is also supplied by the EFI Main relay.
Alright I found the broken wiring. The 2 power wires go into one just under the fuse box in the bay. They where corroded and when I split the harness they separated. Got that fixed and yay my car starts right up..
Thank you guys for all your help on this.
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Just now, Vaughan said:
that sounds like a abd ground, bad relay or blown fuse, I would start with the EFI Main Relay
So the 15amp fuse is good. I did note that the efi fuse was super hot to the touch. When i removed it to stop power to the ecu.
Rpm drops to zero
in G4+
Posted
Okay I'll try that. Once I make this change will I need to adjust anything else on the map?