zwhitebread

So here is a picture from an oscilloscope. It’s taking a readying from the RH inlet sensor. Let me know if you need/want anything specific 2021-02-11-14-52-32.pdf Here is the LH inlet. Would would the rh inlet go to 10 volts but it the LH? 2021-02-11-15-12-12.pdf

Is it possible that it is filtering issues?

So I tested the car and I am still getting trigger errors. I only got errors on the RH inlet sensor. I can upload a short log if needed. Is there anything else I can try?

So I changed the Trig 2 and DI3 to Rising and did the Cam angle test. I haven't had a chance to test drive it yet, but it seems to start really hard now. Once it is running it is fine, it just takes alot of cranking to get it to start. Any idea what would cause this?

Will I need to set the base timing again if I change trig 2 from falling to rising?

Ok. I just updated the firmware. It seems to do it only under load. Here is a trigger scope for 3k Trigger Scope Log 2021-02-3 3k.llg

The trigger scope is at idle Trigger Scope 2021-02-3.llg ZachW _EZ36_sti_Test 02-03-2021.pclr

I have been having an issue where my ecu is receiving extra cam pulses. Its on a link fury G4+ running a Subaru EZ36. I have replaced the sensors and i am still having the problem. I have shielded wiring running from the link to the sensor. It seems to mainly happen on the RH inlet sensor but occasionally happens on the LH inlet sensor. I have attached a short log that has an example of what is happening. Let me know if there is anything I can try or that I should look for to get this problem resolved. Thanks 2-3-2021 test.llg

Where would be the best place to find dwell and dead times for a subaru EZ36 engine? THanks,

Ok. I will get one ordered. In the meantime I have a separate question. I am getting these errors from the Can 2 status. It is transmitting to a dash2pro. Everything on the dash appears to be working. Any idea what could cause this? the weird part is if i go to the can setup, change nothing and hit apply the errors go away and dont come back.

The car itself has been raced a lot but this install is relatively new. It has been raced 2 times with the current setup. (it’s a rally car and the last race was dusty, probably why it looks so used). The sensor had worked previously but I have been having issues with random cuts since the current setup was done. In previous logs it always had the AFR but when I looked at this log it didn’t read at all. Do you think that the sensor itself could be the problem? Or any other specifics that I should be looking for? Or is there any other information that you need? thanks

Ok. I made up a PDF document with pictures hopefully it is clear enough. Let me know if its not clear or you need/want anything specifically that I missed. Its to big to attach so here is the link to it in dropbox. Let me know if that does work for you. https://www.dropbox.com/s/759sn5ko5qzumka/O2 sensor wiring.pdf?dl=0 Thanks!

So the resistance was 93 ohms. I found that one of the female pins was a little loose fitting. I fixed that and checked the rest of the pins and the are all fine. I also double checked the wiring and everything has continuity from the O2 sensor to the pins on the B plug to the ECU and all are wired to the correct pins. Now i am getting three errors. It starts with error 44 RE over voltage. Then it shows error 2 internal controller error. Then it shows error 51 cant read switch on. Any insights on these issues?

The lambda sensor itself is a link wide band sensor that is wired directly into the internal lambda controller using a a link wiring loom. So yes 5 wires coming from the ecu and 6 going into the sensor with the 6th being 12v.

I am getting a lambda 1 error. The Error is number 35 which says "open Circuit RComp Invalid - Open circuit on senor calibration resistor." Its on a link Fury. The software is up to date. I double checked all the wiring and everything appears to be connected and wired correctly. Is this going to be a sensor problem or an internal ecu problem? Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Zach

I ended up changing the trigger 1 and trigger 2 filtering from 2 to 1. I have not had zero trigger or cam errors since I did that.

Well there was no noticeable cuts in the test that i did. Although before my last race i did a bunch of testing and never had any problems until I got there so im still a little worried about it. I uploaded a short log of a pull that i did and i noticed that the LH intake had some errors when it hit the RPM limiter. There was also a couple of Trig 1 errors. Is this a normal? If not any ideas on what some issue could be? The other question with this is my RPM limit is supposed to be set to 6900 and in this log the rpm limiter actives at 6450. The limit control range is set to 50 so why would it kick in so early? thanks 3-5-2020 test 2.llg Zachs EZ36 - boosted tuning.pclr

So I wasn't convince that the issue wasn't a stupid wiring issue because I didn't wire the car myself and I don't trust the people who wired it, so i finally rewired the entire car. Here are a couple trigger scopes that i took after this. I have not had a chance to take the car out and test and see if it is still misfiring. Do these trigger scopes look better than previous ones? 2020 rewire 3k.llg 2020 rewire 5k.llg 2020 rewire idle.llg

And if i switch it on trigger 2 should i also be switching it on the other cam position sensors? or leave them as falling?

Would there be anything else that would change or need to be changed when this setting is switched? or will everything else function as before (vvt target tables, ect)

So you are saying maybe try changing from falling edge to rising edge?

OK. Thanks for verifying. That is how they are wired.

Something I notice in the wiring section is that under the trigger section it has the Cam potion sensor wired with no 12v, but when I got into the VVT section in output wiring it has one of the pins on the cam position sensor wired to 12V. I currently have it wired so that the cam position sensor has 12v to one input. Can anyone verify which would be correct?

OK. I uploaded a 2k and a 5k. Trigger Scope 5k.llg Trigger Scope 2k.llg

I uploaded the wrong file for the cal file. This is the correct one. This should fix most of the issues with the cams. The exhaust cam is supposed to be locked at one position and the inlet table has changed. This car is a race car as far as the idle goes and Im not sure if the tuner changed what the previous tuner had for the ignition idle. As far as the cam position errors and high rpms, I noticed those, but i cant figure out the cause. The crank position sensor is using the Trigger one wire from the Link universal wiring loom which im assuming is shielded, but I also followed the wiring back and it appears that the cable had be cut and re-spliced (or at least thats what im assuming as there is shrink wrap over one spot). Maybe thats the issue? Is there anything else that i should be checking? The one other thing I noticed was that the arming threshold (uploaded below). looking at trigger scopes that i took and reading the trigger arming section i believe it should be more like 1k - 2.5v, 2k - 3.0v, 3k+ - 3.5v. Could this be the difference? My knowledge on this stuff is fairly limited so im not sure how much difference the trigger arming voltages can make. Zachs EZ36 - boosted tuning.pclr