don17
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Posts posted by don17
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6 minutes ago, Vaughan said:
How accurate is the Lambda reading compared to the gauge? Seems very rich everywhere.
Also the ECT Ignition trim is advancing the ignition angle not retarding it (positive values not negative).
So the so the lambda is richer than gauage, I don't think I have the gauage ground wire to and actual sensor ground it is grounded to body. The O2 sensor sits at top of down pipe. The ECT ignition timing might be advancing because it was harder to start when my IACV was playing up, is it possible reaching max ignition?
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When cols starting, hard acceleration/ full throttle the car is hesitant and bogs down, possible fuel related. Fine once about 60º+ can't seem to pin point any help appricated log attached.
SUPRALINK
2JZGE-T SINGLE TURBO
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On 11/13/2023 at 5:28 AM, Adamw said:
Do you have a log from when it is cold?, it is 85C in that log. The lambda is way richer than target, not sure if there is something wrong with the lambda or it really is that rich but it certainly wont drive well if it is actually that bad.
Your accel fuel settings also look a bit out of place to me, you have no accel fuel at all in that log. Usually the deadband will be 0.2-0.6% on a G4+, and cold correction will usually be much higher.
This is a copy of my log, any help would be appreciated
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1 minute ago, Vaughan said:
As far as I'm aware it is a hardware limitation on the G4+ ECUs
Now worries I appricate all the help thanks,
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21 minutes ago, Vaughan said:
That is a basemap(.pclr) file not a log (.llg) file, you made the same comment earlier.
The Multi of 0.83 I provided earlier was based on your other thread where you said you were doing 120 when it said 100.
DI 1 has a calibration value of 200 so 10Hz input is about 18kph and from memory G4+ PWM outputs have a minimum frequency of 10Hz so that would explain why it is jumping to ~20kph immediately.
no worries, i appricate the help. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/hbwp6zkaxa14u4m19abhi/start-up.llg?rlkey=ulbqou1w22x4so1ds4t7nh2e6&dl=0
sorry this is my log, is there anything i can do with the minimum frequency to stop it jumping up so fast? its not a big deal tho
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54 minutes ago, Vaughan said:
Help manual explains what each of them do, just single click on one of them and press F1
no worries, I do have a bit of a look but sometimes unsure where to start. I changed some settings
offset to 0
multi to 0.98
max frequency to 400hz
the speedo moves now and speed is pretty acurate but the need response seems abit slow?
also, when i take off the needle jumps to about 20km/hr almost straight away then will start to move accurately as speed is increased, any idea what to check?
new log file
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3 hours ago, Vaughan said:
Shouldn't multi be set to 0.8333, offset to 0Hz and max freq to 4000Hz for now until you know how far it should actually move?
I really don't know what these values should be I'll try that today tho and get back to you
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On 3/20/2023 at 7:13 AM, 0x33 said:
JZA80 speed signal from factory goes from the Speed sensor -> Dash -> Odometer -> ECU
The odometer changes to signal from one type to another before sending to the various ECU's on the car including the engine ECU.
If your dash speedo works, then investigate the speed signal wiring between odometer and the Link ECU.
Most JZA80 speedos always read incorrectly due to wheel changes etc. So normally when doing Link ECU install I change the wiring for speed signal to:
Speed Sensor -> Link ECU -> Dash -> Odometer -> Other non engine ECU's.Doing it this way you can calibrate the speed signal incoming to Link to be accurate, then output a calibrated signal to Dash to get speedo accurate whilst keeping the factory ODO reading accurately and other body ECU's happy (Assuming your dash wiring is stock).
On passengerside footwell plug (RHD)
Cut Pin 2.Run the plug side of Pin 2 to a spare aux output on Link ECU and set as Speedo Out
Run the loom side of Pin 2 to DI1 (PinA2) on ECU header and calibrate as GP Speed or Wheel speed input
Pull up needs be enabled with factory wiring and with this modified setup above.
I have a similar problem, my speedo was working fine, but i coudn't adjusted the speed through the G4 software. when trabeling 100km/hr speedo in car was showing 120km/hr, its out because of tyre change. So I've tired wirng up the speedo as per this post linked, using a aux input and digital but dosen't seem to work, when i start moving the speedo will move up to about 10km/hr and stay there until coming to a stop? on the G4 software AUX for speedo becomes green when moving, then turns of when stopped. anymore help would be great.
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On 10/31/2023 at 2:34 AM, koracing said:
Are you still needing help? I would try Aux1-8 outputs to drive the speedometer as they should float high (~12v) when the output is inactive so pulse between 12v and ground.
yes, still after some help. So ive tired wirng up the speedo as per this post linked, using a aux input and digital but dosen't seem to work, when i start moving the speedo will move up to about 10km/hr and stay there until coming to a stop? on the G4 software AUX for speedo becomes green when moving, then turns of when stopped. anymore help would be great
this is my log file https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/z9axyr7mvv1ey4b3jz2z3/newspeedo.pclr?rlkey=y5y9f5kbiwiga20bo2odyj49n&dl=0
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having issues with hesitation when trying to accelerate hard after changing gears when cold, or depressing the pedal fully. usually fine around 50 degrees celcius, feels like a fueling issue/cut, maybe over fueling? any help much appreciated. log attached
2JZGE-T jza80
log file
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/db9io8ka1zklos53jpukb/log-1.llg?rlkey=oqxszdia7wtqb70mtku1xtyxv&dl=0
map file
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/5u0lsth5zf3h8fvqqs0wp/map1.pclr?rlkey=kja0pti0i65bqfkaljutuz9d4&dl=0
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On 11/9/2023 at 2:09 AM, koracing said:
Providing a log with it fully warm may help - but your idle ignition control table looked pretty conservative as far as how aggressively it changed timing to keep the idle on target. You can try this tune where I've modified that table and the idle igntion rpm lockout. Your 3D idle base table doesn't change much with your y-axis so not sure what the goal there was.
What IACV are you using - the oem 6 pin connector stepper motor?
tried your map and its fixed the issue. thanks so much!
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5 hours ago, koracing said:
Providing a log with it fully warm may help - but your idle ignition control table looked pretty conservative as far as how aggressively it changed timing to keep the idle on target. You can try this tune where I've modified that table and the idle igntion rpm lockout. Your 3D idle base table doesn't change much with your y-axis so not sure what the goal there was.
What IACV are you using - the oem 6 pin connector stepper motor?
Okay I'll try your modified map thanks, I wanted to see if it was IAT making the idle change as it got hotter, the IACV is aftermarket 2 wire
With the idle table could you post a example image or what you mean. I'm a little unclear
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On 10/31/2023 at 9:57 PM, remski2 said:
Post your log as well.
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10 hours ago, koracing said:
Are you still needing help? I would try Aux1-8 outputs to drive the speedometer as they should float high (~12v) when the output is inactive so pulse between 12v and ground.
Okay I'll try this thanks,
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Still haven't figured this out just yet,
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cant seem to figure out why my idle jumps around, rpm target is 990rpm, after letting off throttle, ususually falls slowly to about 1100rpm, stay there for a random amount of time them falls to 990rpm. Can be sitting there with no throttle movment and just up randomly to 1100rpm. Supra link, throttle cable, iacv
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Hi guys thanks for the replies, so I was only getting 11.6v at the main relay input and battery was reading 12.6v, looks like some wiring between the main relay output and a fuse had cracked solder and slightly melted. I cut and re wired, all fixed. Thanks for the replies
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10 hours ago, Adamw said:
Does the CAN gauge read differently from what is displayed in PC Link?
No same reading as ecu
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I am having the same issue on my supralink ecu, was there any fix ?
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as of a few days ago my link ecu can gauge isnt reading properly, the voltage seems like the most noticeable incorrect reading but not sure if the other readings are. voltage on G4 software says 11.7v but at the battery it says 12.6. I have a few CAN errors achknowledge error, bit recessive error, error passive, bus warning.
this post above, is almost exactly what is happening with mine, i thought i had changed some fuel settings because it was running very rich
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On 8/7/2023 at 7:57 PM, Adamw said:
I think this is idle ignition kicking in and out since the speed lockout is 20kmh. Drop it down to about 10kmh.
There is a dip at the beginning of the log but its hard to see what caused it. The throttle and idle valve doesnt move. Maybe you started to drag the clutch without touching the throttle? Try the changes in green below so it doesnt disable idle ignition as soon as you start to load it.
The dropp at ideal is fixed, only thing remaining is the irratic deceleration around 1800-1100rpm, seems to get worse after those idle adjustments
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15 hours ago, Adamw said:
I think this is idle ignition kicking in and out since the speed lockout is 20kmh. Drop it down to about 10kmh.
There is a dip at the beginning of the log but its hard to see what caused it. The throttle and idle valve doesnt move. Maybe you started to drag the clutch without touching the throttle? Try the changes in green below so it doesnt disable idle ignition as soon as you start to load it.
ill try these changes and see how it drives over the next week, thanks
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it says the file size is too large, is there another way it can be sent to you?
Cold Start hesitations
in G4+
Posted
Okay if I post my map would it be possible to make some tweaks?
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/99zr9qtqpodz6r46ezmz9/newspeedo1.pclr?rlkey=u1h8pssq16fhe5567y4xitzhe&dl=0