Reemen

So i have installed a BTI gauge and hooked it up via CAN port. There is 2 more wires for traction control and boost control that i am going to connect to an analog input each. I was just wondering how i set it up to control the boost and traction. What should i select the AN volt as? Any help would be appriciated http://www.btigauges.com/link--vipec.html

@driftninja Hi again, so i have installed the valve and it works okay. I was just wondering if you ever had any problems with it staying open everytime you press the throttle? Everytime i press the throttle when driving the valve opens, but if im above approx 2000rpm it shuts immidiatly, but if im below it stays open until i reach 2000rpm. Its really annoying

The problem is that the valve is staying open, which is making the car act like im holding the throttle in while its closed. Hard for me to explain, but its acting kinda like a cruise control. So you think that its not a setting thats causing it rather the vakuum not being correct? Because i cant drive with it like this. You can see in the log that i have 0% throttle position, but the RPM is rising until i push the clutch in, then the RPM's increase to around 2400 rpms. Thats when the valve closes, and rpms start falling again.

Hello I have installed the Ford IAC adapter kit on my 2jz-GTE and are having some problems with it. The main problem being that every time i press in the throttle, below approx 2200rpm, the IAC valve opens up and stays open. I cant find any settings in the ECU where there is a limit on 2200 where it should close. When it reaches approx 2200rpm the valve closes, and as long as i stay above said RPM it acts like it should. Anyone know the solution? Altso on cold starts the car goes straigt to well above 2000rpm and stays there for quite a while, and i cant seem to get it lower. Any help would be greatly appriciated isc stuck.llg New 95 oktane.pclr

aaah okay, so i cant use AUX for a switch.. bummer.. No i want it as a momentary switch so that as soon as i let go of the button it deactivates.

So i tried mounting a basic momentary switch to control my antilag. But the switch doesnt register when i press it. I mounted one side of the switch to AUX 5 and the other side to chassi ground. Is there anything i have to do in the ECU, or is it something i have done wrong with the wiring? The switch i have installed. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Normally-Open-Closed-Mini-Momentary-Push-Button-Switch-SPST-PBS-110-3A-125V/283142842411?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=583548705604&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 Link G4+ (supralink) What should i select the switch as in Aux 5 settings?

That would be great! i copied your settings that you posted above here as a base point. Its going to be 1-2 weeks before i can install it though.

That was a fast reply That would be awsome! I'm looking forward to installing it. I'm tired of having to sit on the throttle for like 10 minutes to get the engine warm before it manages to idle by itself @driftninja

Sorry for bringing up an old thread, but im about to install the PHR kit soon and was wondering what settings you ended up using, and how well it works? Any tips while installing? Thank you

So my car is chopping really badly sometimes and I dont know why. It seems like it gets into some sort of cycle and it just gets worse and worse until i either push more on the gas or press the clutch in. Anyone mind taking a look at the log and see if they can find the reason? hakking 1 gir.llg 95oktan.pclr

You were completely right.. I took out the idle valve and it turns out the previous owner had blocked it off with an aluminium plate. So i removed that and put it back together and tried starting the engine. It immediately revd above 4000rpm so i shut the engine off again. I tried putting the minimum clamp and adjusted the base idle table to above 500, but the car did the same when i startet it again. So i took the idle valve out again, to see if it mooved when i turned the ignition, but i didnt. But when i look at the idle valve now that its out of the car it looks completely closed. I cant blow any air through the valve, so i dont understand why it revs high. So i dont now if i should just block it off again and live with it like that or if its just me that dont understand how it works. coldstart idle valve deblocked.llg

So i didnt pull out the idle valve because my power steering reservoir was in the way. But i did try to manually increase my idle valve on the throttle body just to see how the car would react. And i did a complete log from cold to hot. The car started easily and didnt die out, but the rpm is all over the place, espessially when the ECT reaches 40 degrees. Thats when the idle valve starts mooving, so maybe thats a sign that its working? Would you mind looking over the log and see if you can find anything unusual? I had to screw the idle valve on the throttle body back down because the car wouldn't idle below 1500rpm after it was hot, so it didnt solve any issues. coldstart full.llg

I tried setting it to min clamp 25 and attached another log, didnt seem to help anything. How do i open the throttle stop? coldstart minclamp25.llg

I think i did, but here is a new log where its definetly been off. coldstart 4.llg

Thank you for the reply Adam So now i have changed the hold power to 10 sec, and attached a new log for you. The car managed to stay alive at around 500rpm quite a while this time, but i wont go any higher without me using the throttle. Still runs really rich, so i quess i have to take quite abit away from the start up/warm up enrichments? coldstart3.llg

Thank you The car idles fine when its warm. The AFR is stable around 14,7. But how do i raise the RPMs during startup? Without me helping on the throttle it bearly goes above 500 before dying out again. Is this all because of the fuel table?

Try limiting the ignition at a higher degree, like 12 degrees. And take the limit control range down to like 50 rpm This is my settings

Thank you for the reply, The lambda sensor just wasnt heated up enough to start showing data. I attached another log with the lamda showing value. It runs really rich coldstart2.llg

anyone?

Hello Im new to this forum, and i was wondering if anybody could help me with coldstarting my 2jz. I attached a Log file and my Map. My tuning knowledge is on the basic level, so please bear with me. So what im struggeling with is getting my car above 4-500 rpm on startup. The problem is only when the car is cold. The idle is fine when its warm. I tried playing around with the post start enrichment and warm up enrichment but no matter what i do i cant seem to get it above 500rpm without using the gas pedal. Thank you in advance! I got Bosch 2000cc injectors and 264 cams coldstart.llg 95oktan børge fikset.pclr