Reemen
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Posts posted by Reemen
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@driftninja
Hi again, so i have installed the valve and it works okay.
I was just wondering if you ever had any problems with it staying open everytime you press the throttle?
Everytime i press the throttle when driving the valve opens, but if im above approx 2000rpm it shuts immidiatly, but if im below it stays open until i reach 2000rpm.
Its really annoying
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36 minutes ago, Adamw said:
I dont see what you are talking about. The ECU is sending a constant 29%DC in your log which is exactly the value that you have commanded in the base position table for 90°C.
Also be aware most of those Ford idle valves are vacuum assisted so it is important that they are mounted with the correct port to vacuum (early and late valves swapped direction), and the engine needs to make a reasonable level of vacuum for them to function properly.
The problem is that the valve is staying open, which is making the car act like im holding the throttle in while its closed. Hard for me to explain, but its acting kinda like a cruise control.
So you think that its not a setting thats causing it rather the vakuum not being correct?
Because i cant drive with it like this.
You can see in the log that i have 0% throttle position, but the RPM is rising until i push the clutch in, then the RPM's increase to around 2400 rpms. Thats when the valve closes, and rpms start falling again. -
Hello
I have installed the Ford IAC adapter kit on my 2jz-GTE and are having some problems with it.
The main problem being that every time i press in the throttle, below approx 2200rpm, the IAC valve opens up and stays open.
I cant find any settings in the ECU where there is a limit on 2200 where it should close.
When it reaches approx 2200rpm the valve closes, and as long as i stay above said RPM it acts like it should.Anyone know the solution?
Altso on cold starts the car goes straigt to well above 2000rpm and stays there for quite a while, and i cant seem to get it lower.
Any help would be greatly appriciated -
1 minute ago, dx4picco said:
first you want to wire in your switch to a DI (digital input) and not an AUX which is a output.
Furthermore, your link seems to be a push button and not a switch, meaning your DI will turn off as soon as you release the button, and that may not be optimal in your case.
you would rather want a switch that has 2 positions, on and off
aaah okay, so i cant use AUX for a switch.. bummer..
No i want it as a momentary switch so that as soon as i let go of the button it deactivates. -
So i tried mounting a basic momentary switch to control my antilag. But the switch doesnt register when i press it.
I mounted one side of the switch to AUX 5 and the other side to chassi ground.
Is there anything i have to do in the ECU, or is it something i have done wrong with the wiring?
The switch i have installed.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Normally-Open-Closed-Mini-Momentary-Push-Button-Switch-SPST-PBS-110-3A-125V/283142842411?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=583548705604&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Link G4+ (supralink)
What should i select the switch as in Aux 5 settings? -
1 hour ago, driftninja said:
@Reemen ya this works flawlessly. Will high idle at startup to what ever you want, then it will adjust with AC, PS, and cooling fans. Simple. If I cannot find the info saved I can walk you through it too.
That would be great! i copied your settings that you posted above here as a base point. Its going to be 1-2 weeks before i can install it though.
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2 minutes ago, driftninja said:
I’ll see if I can get you the info you need this evening. My car is not local at the moment but I think I saved a snip in my computer. The valve works awesome. I would use it over and over. You only need lik 2 wires out of that OEM harness and it frees up like 3 outputs. Not hard to dial in the idle table either.
That was a fast reply
That would be awsome!
I'm looking forward to installing it. I'm tired of having to sit on the throttle for like 10 minutes to get the engine warm before it manages to idle by itself
@driftninja -
On 6/18/2018 at 6:35 AM, driftninja said:
Excellent thank you. That value makes a huge difference. Internet list everything from 100Hz to 350Hz, hard to get a definitive answer on the Ford valves. I started at the 200Hz per the Link Open loop help file, worked my way up to 300Hz and back down to 153Hz. Ill try 120Hz. Very sensitive idle but getting close i think. Pretty much just spending hrs adjusting the Base Table but will report back with working settings once achieved.
Sorry for bringing up an old thread, but im about to install the PHR kit soon and was wondering what settings you ended up using, and how well it works?
Any tips while installing?
Thank you -
So my car is chopping really badly sometimes and I dont know why.
It seems like it gets into some sort of cycle and it just gets worse and worse until i either push more on the gas or press the clutch in.
Anyone mind taking a look at the log and see if they can find the reason? -
18 hours ago, Adamw said:
From that log I would say the idle valve is not working at all. Most likely is has either failed electrically or is gummed up. The test I suggested earlier will confirm.
You were completely right.. I took out the idle valve and it turns out the previous owner had blocked it off with an aluminium plate.
So i removed that and put it back together and tried starting the engine. It immediately revd above 4000rpm so i shut the engine off again.
I tried putting the minimum clamp and adjusted the base idle table to above 500, but the car did the same when i startet it again.
So i took the idle valve out again, to see if it mooved when i turned the ignition, but i didnt.
But when i look at the idle valve now that its out of the car it looks completely closed. I cant blow any air through the valve, so i dont understand why it revs high.
So i dont now if i should just block it off again and live with it like that or if its just me that dont understand how it works. -
21 hours ago, Adamw said:
I just had another thought. I cant remember how difficult the 2J idle valve is to get at, but if it is not too bad could you pull the motor out, and then with it still plugged in switch the ign on/off to check it is actually moving. When you turn ign off it should wind all the way in, then back out a little. Also check the mating half of the valve body is reasonably clean so it is not jamming.
So i didnt pull out the idle valve because my power steering reservoir was in the way. But i did try to manually increase my idle valve on the throttle body just to see how the car would react.
And i did a complete log from cold to hot. The car started easily and didnt die out, but the rpm is all over the place, espessially when the ECT reaches 40 degrees. Thats when the idle valve starts mooving, so maybe thats a sign that its working?
Would you mind looking over the log and see if you can find anything unusual?
I had to screw the idle valve on the throttle body back down because the car wouldn't idle below 1500rpm after it was hot, so it didnt solve any issues. -
28 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Ok, It's odd that the valve needs to be open so far, usually these engines are at around 150 steps for a cold start yours is at 50 and still appears to need a lot less. So you can try dropping the min clamp to about 25 to see if that helps, I dont like going much lower than that as it will bottom out and lose position. If that doesnt help I think you are going to have to open the throttle stop a little to allow the idle valve to work in a more normal position.
I tried setting it to min clamp 25 and attached another log, didnt seem to help anything.
How do i open the throttle stop? -
20 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Still doesn't look right. Did you turn the ecu off for 10 secs after making that change?
I think i did, but here is a new log where its definetly been off.
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11 hours ago, Adamw said:
There are several problems with your idle setup. The main one being that the keep alive time is set to zero so the idle valve cannot reset after the engine is turned off. So next time you start the engine the ecu has no idea where the idle valve position is so it cant move it to the correct position.
So set the ECU hold power/keep alive time to 10 seconds. Your idle base position table will then probably need some re-tuning. Do us another cold start log after changing the keep alive time (ignition needs to be turned off for 10 seconds before restarting after changing this setting).
Thank you for the reply Adam
So now i have changed the hold power to 10 sec, and attached a new log for you.
The car managed to stay alive at around 500rpm quite a while this time, but i wont go any higher without me using the throttle.
Still runs really rich, so i quess i have to take quite abit away from the start up/warm up enrichments? -
4 minutes ago, remski2 said:
Get the car to normal operating temperature and adjust your main fuel table so the AFRs are 14 - 14.7 during idle. (make sure all fuel corrections are done)
F12 will show you if there are any trims that are on.
Then smooth the fuel table back around that area.
Next day start the engine and now you can play with your Warm Up Enrichment.
At start I have my engine running 13.8 - 14.
Adjust your warm up enrichment so it reaches your idle AFRs, once ECT reaches your operating temps. (158 F in your case)
HP Academy and Evans Performance Academy are a great resource if you want to learn more.
Thank you
The car idles fine when its warm. The AFR is stable around 14,7.
But how do i raise the RPMs during startup?
Without me helping on the throttle it bearly goes above 500 before dying out again.
Is this all because of the fuel table? -
Try limiting the ignition at a higher degree, like 12 degrees. And take the limit control range down to like 50 rpm
This is my settings
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Thank you for the reply,
The lambda sensor just wasnt heated up enough to start showing data. I attached another log with the lamda showing value. It runs really rich -
anyone?
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Hello
Im new to this forum, and i was wondering if anybody could help me with coldstarting my 2jz.
I attached a Log file and my Map.
My tuning knowledge is on the basic level, so please bear with me.
So what im struggeling with is getting my car above 4-500 rpm on startup.
The problem is only when the car is cold. The idle is fine when its warm.
I tried playing around with the post start enrichment and warm up enrichment but no matter what i do i cant seem to get it above 500rpm without using the gas pedal.
Thank you in advance!
I got Bosch 2000cc injectors and 264 cams
Help setting up boost and trac on BTI gauge
in G4+
Posted
So i have installed a BTI gauge and hooked it up via CAN port.
There is 2 more wires for traction control and boost control that i am going to connect to an analog input each.
I was just wondering how i set it up to control the boost and traction. What should i select the AN volt as?
Any help would be appriciated
http://www.btigauges.com/link--vipec.html