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Dave Kriedeman

Dealer
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Posts posted by Dave Kriedeman

  1. Hi Ducie54,

    I use these same solid state relays to drive AUX injectors also.

    The pins 3 and 4 need to be changed .

    3 -  should also be a 12 volt ignition switched supply.

    4 -  should be an auxiliary output set to PWM

    As for the fuel pump power input back to the ECU , No you can not as the inputs are only designed to run 0 - 5 volt only.

    Regards

    Dave.

  2. Hi Neil,

    so you want to know how to make the high boost become active when you move the switch forward.

    Going by your diagram and definition  of how you want it to work.

    The dual switch setup you are showing the following will happen,

    Switch forward the IGN O/P 4 will become active when it meets the requirements that you wish it to activate.
    With the switch off in the middle position the boost table would be low boost or boost setting one.

    With the switch set to high boost DI 1 will activate boost table 2 HIGH BOOST.

    Regards

    Dave.

    DI_1_HIGH_BOOST_SETUP.thumb.gif.bf4ee699

     

  3. Hi issis,

    funny, you were typing another response as I was answering you and your post contains everything I was asking for.

    So I looked at your sync sensor (distributor) I can not determine  if it is mag reluctor 2 wire or Hall effect 3 wire.

    I assume it has only one tooth in the distributor.

    On ""A"" connector pin A6 is a 8 volt supply, this is normally used as the power supply for HALL EFFECT TRIGGERS not 12 volt at say pin A5 or IGNITION although the pigtail shown states 12volts positive,it will work from the 8 volt output.

    Regards

    Dave.

     

  4. Hi TeamJHR,

    That little beast looks like heaps of fun and being powered by did I read correct dual GSXR 1100 ENGINES.

    Unreal that would be so much fun to drive and I would imagine the acceleration would be insane.

    Well done Team.

    Regards

    Dave.

  5. Hi mi16chris,

    I haven't looked at your files but it is just a known, that when air temps rise the air is less dense and you require less fuel.

    You state you have no IAT sensor, then you can not apply any heat soak or reverse cold air corrections to your tune.

    You said cruising your tune was good, but then you left the engine running at your friends house without driving air flow, the latent heat build up in the engine bay and components would go through the roof.

    So with heat soaked inlet manifolds etc the air is less dense but your ecu is still applying the same amount of fuel, hence for the rich mixtures.

    Now if you look at it from the opposite perspective in winter the air is cooler and more dense.

    This means you will require more fuel and you will find your AFR will trend LEAN.

    Your call but I advise fitting a TPS sensor so you can employ throttle enrichment settings, for smooth responsive acceleration, also the ability to use TPS input settings to activate Auxillaries etc.

    I also obviously strongly recommend the fitment of an IAT also.

    Your choice what you decide to do as it is your car, but the precision of your ECU will never function at it's true potential without setting it up properly.

    Regards

    Dave.

     

  6. Hi issis,

    what settings are you using under your triggers.

    Please put up settings for IGNITION MAIN, TRIGGER1 , TRIGGER 2 and CALIBRATE TRIGGERS.

    Also press F12 or R for runtime values ,

    Go to the TRIGGERS and LIMITS,

    Crank the engine,

    You should see a GREEN YES for TRIGGER 1

    You should see a GREEN YES for TRIGGER 2

    You should see TRIGGER ERRORS 0

    You should see a realistic cranking RPM of 125 - 250 rpm.

    Please check and report back.

    If your i88 is new enough you should also have on-board TRIGGER SCOPE, Under the ECU CONTROLS TAB at the top of the page, once open the TRIGGER SCOPE is at the bottom.

    Crank the engine and hit the CAPTURE BUTTON, Keep cranking until you see (HOPEFULLY) TRIGGER 1 and 2 Patterns on the screen.

    Hit the SAVE AS BUTTON and save the file as TRIGGER CAPTURE 1.

    Post it up on here or email it to me [email protected]

    Regards

    Dave.

  7. Hi JosA,

    Sorry I am unwell and going for surgery in  2weeks I have been sleeping a lot.

    Do you mean you have lost the actual key for the car or ???

    Regards

    Dave.

  8. Hi Davidv,

    I have never had to play with something like you are trying to achieve, however I just wanted to make sure that as well as your ideas  that you knew about the following settings in the software also.

    The driven wheel setting can obviously be derived via an electronic speedo transducer or mechanical to electronic transducer to help with a more accurate input as far as the speedo is concerned.

    Regards

    Dave,

    SPEEDO_TACHO.thumb.gif.1bd0278cad888d2cb

  9. Hi gijsje,

    what ecu are you using , plug in or standalone.

    Standalone you can use the second plug on the face , plug in use the onboard or tuning lead but you cannot have a tuning lead connected at the same time as the RS 232 device, either way.

    Regards

    Dave.

    LINK_COMMS_PORT_PINOUTS..thumb.gif.c6dd0

     

  10. Hi Rob W ,

    ALL INPUT SENSOR GROUNDS MUST GO TO SENSOR GROUND..

    Also just be careful that some AFR meters such as PLX and Innovate don't have a sensor ground,

    These style gauges only have an analogue volt output positive, They then have a power circuit which is POSITIVE and NEGATIVE .

    The negative must not be connected to sensor ground.

    Ground this wire close to the ECU ground, (NOT SENSOR GROUND).

    Regards

    Dave.

  11. Hi JosA,

     Can you please resend the files, I spotted that in the JUNK EMAIL box and I trashed it with my Virus protection, sorry.

    Hi JosA , it is all good, I have it again now, no need to resend.

    Regards

    Dave.

  12. Hi TeamJHR,

    Yes you will require ignition modules if you have dumb coils.

    You can use 2 x double output (dual channel) ignition modules.

    You don't need to run one per coil.

    If you can find COP (coil on plug smart coils , coils with inbuilt ignitors)  use them.

    You also have the option to run a 4 channel CDI.

    Is the engine going to have forced induction if so you need a MAP sensor to suit your boost level.

    You will need ECT sensor and an Inlet air temp sensor, if your engine is already fitted with these you can use the OEM sensors.

    Obviously you will require a TPS which should also be standard fitment on the engine already.

    May I suggest seriously fitting 4 x EGT (PYRO) sensors, this will give very accurate tuning data and also employ trimming strategies and engine protection strategies before the engine has a catastrophic failure.

    You may also wish to run oil pressure and fuel pressure sensors.

    If you want any help setting the system up and creating base files etc I can help out.

    Just email me at [email protected]

    Regards

    Dave.

  13. Hi Brendon,

    20 " of vacuum at idle is perfect, even at 1800 rpm it is still indicating to me there is enough restriction to flow to generate a good vacuum signal.

    So does this actually have an idle speed device or does it just have DBW.

    In my previous instructions I disabled idle ignition timing table and that way the engine runs on the main table.

    What is the idling ignition timing value from the main ignition table.

    Does your DBW throttle body have a physical idle blade stop screw or bypass adjuster

    Some ford DBW have a plastic bypass adjuster, just wondering if yours has anything like this.

    What is the AFR value at the high idle speed.

    Brendon with all of the idle control settings set at 0 etc like previously mentioned , put 0 in the DBW target table in the 0 to 10% FPS Y axis and all rpm sites in the x axis does the engine still fast idle and have a lo9ok at how much throttle blade is open.

    Regards

    Dave.

     

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