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Dave Kriedeman

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Posts posted by Dave Kriedeman

  1. Lambda to AFR

    in G4+

    Posted

    Hi Rob,

    did you go into the OPTIONS tab and then down to UNITS and select AFR in both Metric and Imperial settings.

    Otherwise pressing the U key will change the value from Lambda to AFR but will also change any other metricated values to imperial such as MAP will become PSI etc.

    So it is best done under the OPTIONS tab.

    You will also need to right click on the gauge and hit properties, go to manual selection and change the values from 0.068 MIN and  1.3 max to you corresponding AFR values for your gauge say MIN = 10  AFR  and   MAX= 22 AFR

    Regards

    Dave.

  2. Sequential & direct spark wiring question

    in G4+

    Posted

    Hi Felix,

    you must go down to the Triggers tab.

    Once you have setup Trigger 1 and 2 correctly and stored to the ECU by pressing F4,

    You must,

    Go to the Calibrate tab below trigger 1 and 2.

    Click on the set Base Timing tab and this will unlock your Trigger calibration mode.

    Set your desired TRIGGER TEST POINT DEPENDANT on your harmonic balancer or flywheel where ever it is located.

    If you only have 1 mark this is normally TDC or 0 degrees.

    But if you have multiple marks they may graduate in 5or 10 degree increments (confirm marks before starting).

    Next step is to turn off the fuel in the Fuel Main Tab from sequential or your chosen way and set to OFF/NONE.

    Or alternatively disconnect your injectors, crank the engine with a timing light.

    You need to see the light fire and have the timing mark line up to what ever you have set your reference timing to , say 10 degrees BTDC.

    If the timing marks don't line up simply adjust the Trigger Offset Value until they do.

    These numbers can end up positive or negative.

    Regards

    Dave.

  4. Rb26 trigger wireing

    in Link G4

    Posted · Edited by Dave Kriedeman

    Hi Rbmadhead,

    FIRSTLY NOT A DOUBLE POST, AS I WAS TYPING MY REPLY SIMON ANSWERED YOU ALSO.

    So you are referring to resigning the factory CAS and using standalone crank trigger and cam sensor.

    The choice of triggers is up to you.

    Mag reluctor type sensors are easier to wire (2 wires) one wire the positive goes to Trigger 1 ECU PIN A8 if it is the crank trigger and the other to sensor ground / shielded ECU PIN A 7

    The same for the CAM sensor.

    Positive goes to ECU PIN A9 and negative to ECU PIN A7.

    If you choose HALL EFFECT SENSORS such as GT101's then the positive to the sensor should come from ECU PIN A6 8volt output.

    This wire will be BLK/RED = 8 VOLT PIN A6

    BLK/WH = TRIGGER SIGNAL = ECU PIN A8 if crank , ECU PIN A9 if CAM.

    BLK = SENSOR GROUND = ECU PIN A7

    I personally prefer MAGNETIC RELUCTOR TYPE SENSORS.

    So that is just the sensor side.

    Then you have trigger wheels and cam trigger lug to worry about.

    Has your CAS died or are you simply wanting more accurate trigger inputs.

    You also have the option of removing the 360 x1 and 6 x 60 trigger disc and fitting a 6 x 60 and single sync chopper disc for the factory CAS for high rpm use.

    Google RB 26 CRANK TRIGGER KITS, I am sure there are a few around and one is made by a Harmonic balancer company Ross or the likes.

    Regards

    Dave.

    Simon,

    you answered while I was typing, ha ha, what are you doing up early.

    The lil man didn't sleep again I take it.

    Regards

    Dave :)

     

  5. Sequential & direct spark wiring question

    in G4+

    Posted · Edited by Dave Kriedeman

    Hi Felix,

    I have had a quick look at your PCL file.

    I have noticed that the TRIGGER CALIBRATION you have no trigger offset it is set to 0 degrees and your set ignition timing is set to 0 also.

    Have you actually done a TRIGGER CALIBRATION, where you lock the timing to a timing value you wish to check at, the ecu will lock the timing to say 10 deg BTDC and you need to adjust the TRIGGER OFFSET until you achieve the desired timing value, 10 degrees in our example.

    You then need to set the IGNITION DELAY value also, adjust the number until the timing value stays locked on your preset value say 10 deg BTDC, if the timing value changes when you rev the engine you need to adjust the delay value until it no longer moves.

    Running sequential fuel and ignition should work, with your setup and have no need to change the wiring etc, just setup and calibrate the triggers properly.

    Did you also, calibrate the DBW and MAP sensor.

    Regards

    Dave.

  7. wiring link atom to honda obd1.

    in G4+

    Posted

    Hi tao,

    that is much better.

    Thank you, I will be able to help out now.

    Can you also list what outputs you wish to use.

    What inputs do you wish to use.

    If you do have a LINK G4+ ATOM there is no onboard  MAP sensor so an external unit will be required if you want MAP.

    The ATOM is limited with INPUTS and OUTPUTS.

    Regards

    Dave.

  9. Sequential & direct spark wiring question

    in G4+

    Posted

    Hi Felix,

    can you please post your PCL file for analysis.

    Looking at the scope capture if these are from your engine then the triggers 1 and 2 are working.

    In runtime values F12 or R key under TRIGGERS do you see TRIGGER 1 GREEN -YES and TRIGGER 2 GREEN - YES and Finally do you see RPM.

    Did you calibrate the TRIGGERS and adjust the TRIGGER OFFSET TO GET THE AIM TIMING VALUE YOU SELECTED.

    Regards

    Dave.

  11. Gear indication

    in G4+

    Posted

    Hi dmacnz,

    Yes , there sure is.

    Right click on screen select what type of gauge you want.

    Then go to the CHASSIS and BODY TAB.

    Select TRANSMISSION and then gear.

    Attached screen shot plus I added a couple more gauges.

    Regards

    Dave.GEAR_STATUS.thumb.gif.a34e12d5b9d6dae699

  14. Sequential & direct spark wiring question

    in G4+

    Posted · Edited by Dave Kriedeman

    Hi Felix,

    I am a little confused.

    What ECU are you using and how many cylinders is your engine.

    If you have enough injector outputs to suit the number of cylinders/injectors then wire the injectors separately, (INDIVIDUALLY, SEQUENTIAL).

    Then set the Ignition to WASTED SPARK and pair off your coils.

    DO YOU HAVE A TRIGGER 2 ISSUE, WHY are you doing this change, so I can understand, sorry

    Regards

    Dave.

  15. Cruise control setup

    in G4+

    Posted · Edited by Dave Kriedeman

    Hi Finbimmer,

    Does the DBW work nice and smooth, responsive and controllable when just driving normally without cruise control on.

    If so, I would suggest setting up a secondary E THROTTLE TARGET TABLE with less aggressive throttle % settings in the table.

    You could activate this off the same Digital Input as you use for the Cruise Control ENABLE.

    When this is turned on it uses Table 2 with less throttle blade movement than the Main E THROTTLE target Table 1.

    I would suggest you use the same PID settings as the MAIN E THROTTLE SETUP if it works nicely in normal mode.

    Then try the example have added below, play with the E THROTTLE TABLE 2 VALUES TO SUIT YOUR LIKING.

    Adjust the PID values under the Cruise Control PID settings to achieve smooth operation.

    Regards

    Dave.CRUISE_CONTROL_E_THROTTLE_2_TABLE..thumb

  20. KMS CAN Display on V Series

    in ViPEC V Series

    Posted · Edited by Dave Kriedeman

    Thanks david. There's absolutely no way to make the KMS can unit work on my existing v44 top board? Happy to pay for labour to make it work. 

    Hi mate,

    as Simon has stated it is not a modification issue with the V series it is due to the newer processor used in the i SERIES and G4+ that allows for this to work.

    I have done a lot of MoTeC SDL, ADL and CDL dashes with V SERIES with CAN BUS.

    Now these DASHES are cheaper and showing up second hand for sale , due to the release of the new C SERIES MoTeC dashes.

    There is also the DASH 2 PRO option sold by LINKRaceTech_DASH_2_PRO.thumb.jpg.8699b8a058

    These are very well priced and a nice unit.

    Regards

    Dave.

     

  21. KMS CAN Display on V Series

    in ViPEC V Series

    Posted

    Hi everybody,

    just making you all aware I can also carry out the CAN BUS modifications on the LINK and ViPEC series ECU's.

    I have done a lot of them now.

    Or you can send to Ray Hall or direct to LINK.

    Remember this is only required on units with a serial number less than 10 000.

    Regards

    Dave.

  24. Racepak IQ3 and G4+ Problems

    in G4+

    Posted · Edited by Dave Kriedeman

    Hi Peter,

    are you still referring to the dash issue.

    And or the quick tune not working.

    If you are still having issues with QUICK TUNE let me know and I will log in and check what is happening

    If you can send me your dash configuration file I can look into it more deeply for you.

    I see the dash can except 20 parameters from the ECU, it also shows the stream ID's etc, so I am not sure if these need to be programmed into the ECU CAN, I would believe so as the Racepak is not setup as a predefined selectable dash config.

    If this is the case I am prepared to write the stream and help you get this thing going.

    Please send your dash config file for Racepak software to [email protected]

    Regards

    Dave.

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