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Dave Kriedeman

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Posts posted by Dave Kriedeman

  2. Traction Control Activation

    in Vi-PEC i Series

    Posted · Edited by Dave Kriedeman
    added information

    TRACTION_CONTROL_DI_OFF.thumb.gif.de9c09Hi llabmik2,

    If you setup Traction control and tune it, there is an option under DIGITAL INPUTS for Traction Control OFF switch.

    So with it setup the TC is always active same as factory vehicle setups.

    You then select a DI to turn it off.

    Regards Dave

     

     

  3. V88 injector scale?

    in ViPEC V Series

    Posted

    Hi Flemo,

    you will need to add all of the injector data as in regards to injector dead times etc, are the old injectors low impedance with resistors or high impedance, if high impedance the drivers can be left alone.

    Decrease the fuel master by the % increase the new injectors are over original size.

    This will putt you in the ballpark, however there maybe spray pattern differences between your old and new injectors that make for small hesitations etc.

    You may need to use the trim % under the Fuel setup tab below the master and set it slightly richer or leaner based on the AFR.

    Regards

    Dave.

  4. Link G3 with external map sensor, how?

    in Link G2 G3

    Posted

    Hi gtir,

    I think that whom ever you spoke with has misunderstood your question.

    I believe that they must be thinking your asking about upgrading just the G4 firmware.

    What you need to in fact ask them is the following.

    You have a G3 and you wish to purchase a G4+ upgrade enable  password.

    This is definitely not free, from then on all of your standard firmware updates are free same as your G3 platform was.

    Recontact your dealer and ask as  I have written.

    If you still have issue please contact Link in New Zealand.

    Regards

    Dave.

  7. Toyota 2jzgte electric throttle

    in G4+

    Posted

    Hi Muzzytt,

    These DBW setups are very similar to the Nissan TB 48 DBW , where you actually have to carry out the sensor calibration by hand to a degree unfortunately.

    You obviously need to be very careful when doing this.

    The problem is the fact that the cable moves only so far to trigger the input to the factory ecu and then the factory ecu takes over throttle control, NORMALLY.

    The stock ECU accounts for all of this as the engineers have programmed for it.

    However we as tuners must replicate for this.

    There are a couple of ways to do this.

    One is to disconnect the positive wire only to the DBW motor.

    Proceed with the FPS Calibration by moving the throttle cable itself, take note of where it stops effecting the throttle blade itself, then continue to open the throttle blade physically to approx. 90 - 95 % , I never go to full horizontal plane open as this could trend towards a mechanical seizure of the blade.

    Then close the Throttle blade to the Throttle stop screw, press F4 and save to the ECU , that is your FPS done.

    Now the same is required for the TPS, the problem here is you must fully drive the throttle blade open and closed physically by hand at the rate at which the software wants to see the changes.

    This can be tricky.

    The second option which I do is keep the DBW motor powered after the FPS calibration has been physically done at the throttle body.

    When the ECU goes into calibration mode and shuts the blade, I push the blade to the throttle stop position until the screen says that it will track for full throttle, when this prompt comes up I push the top of the throttle blade to 90 -95% position.

    While doing this procedure, which by the way, don't try this at home kids,

     I keep my finger favouring the centre of the throttle blade but on the bottom side of the shaft to close the blade and then the top side of the shaft to open the blade.

    This minimises the chances of loosing a finger, well hurting it bad anyway.

    Sometimes this may take a couple of goes until you get it right, but unfortunately that is all you can do if you wish to retain this setup.

    Let me know how you go, also, DON'T FORGET TO HOOK POWER BACK UP to the DBW MOTOR or you will HATE ME, ha ha.

    Regards

    Dave.

     

  8. Some trigger issues

    in Vi-PEC i Series

    Posted

    Hi Sutkale,

    great result after so much heart ache for you.

    Sometimes things are just what they are, I have had issues with trigger wheels because of the metal they were made from etc.

    It is very frustrating at times and almost always leads the owner,mechanic or tuner being suspect about the ECU.

    Then when the ECU is tested and gets the thumbs up, it's OK., the circle of despair starts again.

    I have had trigger errors from loose timing chains and belts, trigger discs just touching pick up sensors , air gap issues you name it.

    Well done anyway, you have nailed it, with the advice of Simon recommending a tooth count change.

    Regards

    Dave.

  9. Thermocouple sensor EGT K Type in v44 pnp

    in ViPEC V Series

    Posted

    Hi ,

    there are many brands available.

    However you are best buying a new kit that comes with another thermocouple that is calibrated to work with the amplifier.

    If you just want a cheap generalised unit with fairly good data output for the ECU , I used PLX Devices on some jobs.

    If you wish for a more accurate unit please contact me via PM.

    Regards

    Dave.

  12. Toyota 2jzgte electric throttle

    in G4+

    Posted · Edited by Dave Kriedeman
    added information

    TOYOTA_DBW.thumb.gif.76fcba78657621708e6Hi Muzzytt,

    it still appears as though your FPS SUB and MAIN are back to front.

    Your foot pedal sub seems to always have a higher voltage.

    Right click on your AN VOLT 6,7,8,9 select properties and rescale to 5 volts, not that it really matters.

    Does your DBW setup look the same as my attached picture, or does it have an actual DBW pedal and no cable.

    A value of 60 as a derivative gain seems very high also.

    Regards

    Dave.

  16. RB25DET TO IDLE TO TUNERS

    in ViPEC V Series

    Posted

    Hi,

    yes you need to fill out the dead time values correctly,

    You running fuel pressure dead time values end up very close to 50 PSI, so use the 50 psi data row I have supplied at the top of the V series FORUM Titled Injector Dynamics Dead Times.

    You are Welcome.

    Keep us informed if you have any further problems.

    I will post up a dwell table to suit your coils soon.

    Regards

    Dave.

  19. Leaving the tuning cable in full time - interference?

    in Link G4

    Posted

    Hi Heteractis,

    You just use your tuning cable supplied with your ECU.

    If your tablet has a mini USB socket you just need to buy an normal USB to mini USB adaptor.

    You also have the option of setting up the OBD2 if you have a G4+ and running a KIWI WIFI for i SERIES products such as iPHONES, iPADS etc.

    Or KIWI BLUE TOOTH for ANDROID devices.

    Regards

    Dave.

  21. RB25DET TO IDLE TO TUNERS

    in ViPEC V Series

    Posted

    Hi Carl,

    Did you calibrate the TRIGGER OFFSET and carry out a WIDEST SLOT TEST.

    What AFR are you seeing.

    Did you load the correct injector dead time data into the software.

    The WIDEBAND being connected will not effect it.

    There are a lot of steps to getting the engine up and running correct before being able to drive it.

    You say you have ID 1000 cc injectors , What fuel pressure are you running.

    50 as your  MASTER maybe acceptable for it to fire straight up however, once fired you also have AFTER START ENRICHMENT,WARMUP ENRICHMENT ETC ETC ETC.

    You also need to calibrate the TPS and MAP sensor,

    Try to get the engine running at around 13.5:1 for a base line figure to POSSIBLY get it on the trailer.

    Regards

    Dave.

     

  25. G4+ evo 123 plug in help

    in G4+

    Posted · Edited by Dave Kriedeman
    added information

    Hi Peterfook,

    well I have had a look at your file and have found a bunch of things wrong.

    You seriously have to recheck the FUEL MAIN table and tune it correctly.

    The values in the table do not correlate to anything sensible as far as fuel requirements for that engine.

    The step in values used from 140 Kpa through to 200 Kpa are massive

    Statistics show you have actually run the injectors out to 149.2%.

    You need to check your fuel pressure and flow, fill out the injector dead time chart if the values are not for your exact injector.

    You can leave the Injector Short Pulse Adder at 0, but I would try to source your Minimum Effective Pulse rate which normally would be in the region of 1.5 to 2 ms.

    You have 0, however this wont effect your issue, these are just some pointers.

    Your dwell table also appears to be running very high values, this will saturate the coil for to long and when finally discharged will have a similar effect to a degree (pun intended) retarded timing.

    Does your vehicle actually run FUEL  PUMP CONTROL, I have personally not had much to do with EVO's, if it doesn't I would be turning the XOVER function of the Fuel Pump off.

    What boost controller are you using,it is a lot better to control boost via the ECU but this is your choice.

    However standalone or Bleed valve boost control independent to the ECU are effective but nowhere as accurate or controllable as if controlled via the ECU.

    Your Ignition Main table is scary.

    The values being used are far to retarded and will create massive EGT's, these values will also cause boost pressure increase at those points.

    Sorry to say but this Engine requires a full retune.

    I am not putting your tuner down, he may not be familiar with this system enough.

    I would love to see a log file from this vehicle with AFR /LAMBDA added in the log.

    The combination of a Fuel main table being off the scale and a very retarded Ignition table will result in a very unhappy engine indeed.

    If your tuner would like some  information or help, he can contact me at [email protected]

    Regards

    Dave.

     

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