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Dave Kriedeman

Dealer
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Posts posted by Dave Kriedeman

  1. Hi mate,

    you have a few options.

    1. Go into the settings of the laptop and set it up so that the top row of buttons works as per F1 F2 F3 F4 F10 F12 ETC

    2. Press the FN KEY and the F? key you wish to use

    3. Do your file saving and save to ECU via the mouse and the settings under ECU control tab 3rd in from left.

    4, Press CTRL + S to store to ECU.

    Regards

    Dave.

  2. Hi minir15,

    see what you can do about checking and logging fuel pressure fuel.

    Also are you able to borrow a second wideband unit from a friend etc and connect to a spare analogue volt input and data log it also as wideband 2, just to compare both widebands do the same thing.

    This will rule out possible sensor or controller errors.

    Remember wideband sensor don't last for ever especially in an overly rich condition.

    I am simply giving you some pointers here.

    I actually own 4 wideband units , but I do a lot of tuning, it is very good to have a second meter to compare against.

    Regards

    Dave.

  3. Hi,

    to understand exactly what is going on is to use the PC LOGGER, set to 40 Hz.

    Select all parameters to be logged.

    Do a couple of pulls with the engine at normal running temp.

    After you have done a pull on normal fuel and then on Meth.

    Go through the data logs , but you need to go through all the logged parameters and select all FUEL and IGNITION CORRECTIONS, as well as the basics such as RPM, MAP,TPS, etc etc.

    Look for any added % enrichment or timing changes that may contribute to this issue.

    Regards

    Dave.

  4. Hi Kristian,

    does your fuel tank contain a swirl pot and the main feed from the tank to the Bosch 044 is supplied from there.

    Is your 044 gravity fed, these pumps do not like having to suck, pump should be mounted lower than the tank outlet.

    Is the pump noisy at all.

    Fuel pressure dropping under load, high power or heavy acceleration is normally a good indication of lack of flow.

    The fuel lines and everything seem to be definitely up to the job, but the pump location is critical here .

    Also it may seem silly, but just double check you do infact have an 044 not an 040 which i have had a few shocked customers with.

    Also try removing the fuel filler cap and recheck incase the tank is not venting.

    Also in regards to the pressure oscillation, as you are firing 3 x 2 , you may require a pulsation dampener.

    Regards

    Dave.

  5. you can do that to in the vipec software :mrgreen:

    Hi ,

    yes I know, I have created hundreds of custom page setups for customers and myself.

    however the colour ranges etc are different in LINK software .

    The undo short changes back arrow is right there you don't have to go looking for it etc

    Gauge setup and appearance is a lot nicer.

    Just my opinion.

    As for the 5.4 FW upgrade being LINK G4+ as stated this software has been able to used with ViPEC ECU's for some time now.

    5.4 is an upgrade for G4+ and i SERIES users only,

    The main features of the G4+ 5.4 is for the new G4+ FURY ECU. :D

    Regards

    Dave.

  6. Hi everyone,

    I do not work for ViPEC, I just help out where I can.

    Using LINK G4+ software on ViPEC has been a working option for quite some time now.

    As for firmware and software branding, naming etc I am unsure and not at liberty to comment on this matter.

    I was simply advising you that the new 5.4 has fixes and is stable and can be used on your ViPEC.

    I personally prefer the LINK software as if you are into setting up custom pages and gauges etc as much as I am the colour options etc are far better.

    At the end of the day both brands are made by the same company.

    They are all great.

    Regards

    Dave.

  7. Hi Gojira,

    I have down loaded the PCL file you have supplied.

    Your ECU is running OLD 5.3.1 FIRMWARE, you should be using 5.4 , bugs have been fixed since 5.3.1

    This I would say is why you are seeing these faults and that poor Ashley is trying to work out why these issues exist.

    Also when he bench tests,things he tests work.

    THE FOLLOWING IS A FRIENDLY NOTE TO EVERYONE IN CAPITAL LETTERS TO BE NOTICED,

    A NOTE TO EVERYONE PLEASE KEEP YOUR FIRMWARE UPTO DATE.

    PLEASE READ THE UPDATE NOTES FIXES AND NEW FEATURES, SOME NEW FEATURES ""MUST"" BE DISABLED OR ZEROED OUT TO MAKE INACTIVE OR CAN HAVE DRAMATIC EFFECTS ON YOUR TUNE.

    UNLESS YOU ARE HAPPY WITH EVERYTHING IN YOUR SETUP AND HAVE NO ISSUES, THEN UPDATE.

    Regards

    Dave.

    post-1099-14345021616_thumb.gif

  8. Hi,

    Simon is normally snowed under with emails, infact they don't even let him out for toilet breaks these days.

    If you open the software for your ECU, go to the top right of the page and select HELP tab.

    Then select PLUG IN ECI INSTALLATION MANUAL,

    then select your ECU.

    If you require more info please advise.

    Regards

    Dave.

  9. Hi Josey,

    remember to switch the E THROTTLE mode back to ON not Calibrate.

    Then press F4 SAVE TO ECU and F2 save to file name.

    One other common thing to check is that the actual E THROTTLE TABLE has FP set as the Y axis.

    If the Y axis is not set to FP% then the DBW will not work.

    Regards

    Dave.

  10. Hi Josey,

    sorry for delayed reply I have not been to well.

    In your last post you state that the blade is now stuck in the WOT position is this correct.

    The TPS DEAD BAND set at 5% will instruct the ECU not to try to move the throttle blade unless it falls outside 5% range of 100%

    I normally set this to 0% as it helps me when setting up my PID's helps stop oscillating.

    As for the setting being stuck on 100%, I would shut down the ECU, switch ignition off, disconnect laptop, hook everything else back up and start the DBW calibration over.

    Set the dead band to 0.1 -0.5 % and start over

    Regards

    Dave.

  11. Hi Max,

    with the laptop hooked up and VTS open can you hold the throttle at say a constant 3% and start the engine , if not try a constant 5%.

    A lot of these types of starting issues are to do with closed throttle air bypass being insufficient.

    We need to rule this out.

    Also have a look at your plugs if they are black and sooted they will induce starting issues.

    If you think you have flooded the engine while trying to start, hold the throttle WIDE OPEN (FULL) throttle and crank, this will shut the engine down and can also help the engine start in some conditions.

    Regards

    Dave.

  12. Hi ,

    most of the time the fix for this is to spend a lot of time and adjust the PID's until you achieve the correct levels.

    However a throttle blade angle of 95% or greater has been proven to not have much influence on final power production.

    You could always settle 97%.

    I never try to force a DBW throttle blade to a full 100% open as I would rather avoid a physical mechanical lock up by having the blade jam physically at WOT.

    Also make sure nothing is physically stopping the blade from opening more such as throttle body gasket etc, I sometimes must move the blade by hand very carefully to my WOT position to make sure it will actually reach the position I require.

    Also make sure the motor has a good solid 12 volts and it is not mechanically worn.

    Regards

    Dave.

  13. Hi Smelly,

    when you right click on the mixture map and select properties you need to add conditioning filters.

    You will see on the lower section it has these filter set ups, so you select the different parameters you wish to use to get the relevant info you want.

    For example I use TPS as a conditioner with an movement < 5% to disregard the data so the AFR on decal fuel cut can be ignored with other conditions setup also.

    Regards

    Dave.

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