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Dave Kriedeman

Dealer
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Posts posted by Dave Kriedeman

  1. Hi,

    I now know this system.

    Unfortunately when I get to see it , it has the Japanese supplied lock out kit or the butterfly removed.

    The Nissan TB48 also uses this very similar setup.

    This is normally found on auto trans cars as torque limiting or crude traction control devices.

    You will need to hook up the clutch control wires as described and i personally would use the AUX 8 E THROTTLE RELAY definately , just in case anything abnormal happens, the DBW will shut down to base factory air gap.

    Regards

    Dave.

  2. Hi Jason,

    I will have a look into this for you, never done a 2JZ DBW as yet.

    The AUX 8 relay is there for as a safety feature, if anything falls outside the parameters and values of control the ECU shuts off the relay.

    The DBW throttle blade then sits at default air gap, this ensures no wide open throttle jams etc.

    I will try to get back to you with a response asap.

    I am a bit back logged with much work at present.

    One other question, are you using this same type of DBW assembly as it states in the HELP FILE this is for 3S-GTE and 1UZ-FE not 2JZ etc.

    Regards

    Dave.

  3. Hi Kristian,

    can you please do another log of the issue happening, use PC logging at 40 Hz , and LOG ALL PARAMETERS and repost, I don't have all the parameters I wish to look at in the RAR log file you have loaded.

    Can you also supply the PCL file.

    Regards

    Dave.

  4. Hi ,

    please find below a more suitable main ignition table starting table value.

    I have also modified the Launch control ignition table and fuel table to try to reduce your EGT's please advise how this goes.

    Remember the ignition main table values are a starting point, proper adjustment of the ignition table values can only be achieved correctly using a dyno and detonation detection equipment.

    However you are using a 102 RON fuel, but also a relatively high compression ratio, so it should be safe and conservative in the higher boost levels.

    However this once again must be tuned correctly.

    Regards

    Dave.

    Fiesta timing changes _DAVE_1.pcl

  5. Hi,

    you are correct, that is not a very good looking ignition curve.

    You need a timing light and also some form of audio type knock monitor.

    You will need to start with a good basic ignition table to start with.

    Please supply engine specs/details for me and what grade fuel you are using, I will create a safe starting ignition table for you.

    As for the engine getting hot quickly, that could be just about anything, from bad thermostat to blockage in radiator, too much ignition retard etc, etc.

    Regards

    Dave.

  6. Hi Essexstu,

    unfortunately this feature does not exist in the older V series ECU's.

    The i SERIES does have this ability from FW version 5.2.2 onwards, depending on what FUEL MODEL EQUATION you use.

    You could however go to the FUEL MAIN page and decrease the MASTER FUEL TRIM % to get you in the ball park for the injector size change.

    Regards

    Dave.

  7. Hi mldc,

    getting back to your Launch Control,

    I would be taking advancing the timing to say -20 degrees and 0 the launch fuel table to start with, then slowly introduce more fuel to help after burn and boost production.

    If you desired boost level is not achieved , try retarding the timing in 5 degree increments, then each time add fuel.

    Regards

    Dave.

  8. Hi mldc,

    as for the smoke after starting, you will require a WIDEBAND meter to correct the cold start, post start and warm up enrichment multipliers.

    As long as the main fuel table is tuned correctly with all cold start multipliers inactive (so engine running temp ) the AFR /Lambda values are correct, then you can start to adjust the cold start values once the engine has cooled back down to ambient temps.

    Regards

    Dave.

  9. Hi,

    Sorry for the delayed replies, I am very busy at present.

    The Launch control fuel table looks to be set far different to what I would, I normally add fuel to help with after burn and cooling.

    He is also commanding an extreme amount of retard upto -50 degrees.

    This combination of subtracting fuel and upto 50 degrees ignition retard will cause extreme exhaust temps.

    He has subtracted fuel from the main table while the Launch Control is active, this will cause high EGT's.

    I can not answer why he has done so.

    I would 0 this table completely to start with and then add fuel to the areas of operation.

    Once again this is not something that can really be setup correctly over a forum, you should take to the tune r and voice your concerns or see another experienced tuner.

    Regards

    Dave.

  10. Hi mldc,

    Tuning for anti lag requires a very good understanding of how this system works and is considered an advanced feature, to be setup and tuned by an experienced tuner.

    Advancing the ignition timing will have the most beneficial effect on the exhaust temps.

    Adding fuel can be a double edged sword, the extra fuel can either cool the exhaust temp to a degree , but at the same time can also add to the exhaust temp due to the after burn effect of the fuel mixture igniting on the way out due to high exhaust temps.

    I would add more timing to the retard value with Anti Lag active, advance until the boost level you require is just achieved, then add some fuel.

    Setting how much fuel is very hard to get correct as you can not use AFR accurately to test, this must be done by reading plugs or reading EGT only.

    As for your logs, I always data log with the laptop.

    Sounds like your internal logger is full.

    Are you use Software/Firmware version 4.10

    Regards

    Dave

  11. Hi Turbodude,

    Sounds as though your Analogue volt input default value is in action.

    Have you tried to do a TPS recalibration.

    You will also need to go to the tab called FAULT SETTINGS at the bottom of the ANALOGUE INPUTS TAB.

    Go to your Analogue volt input and set the Low warning value to 0.05v and the High warning voltage to 4.95 volts, set your default setting anything you wish but a value of 10 - 15 % should be sufficient.

    Very important you do a TPS calibration.

    Report back to us with the outcome.

    Regards

    Dave.

  12. Hi James,

    Does the switch only ever read 0 and 50 %.

    After you carry out a TPS calibration does it read from 0 - 100% at all or always 0 - 50 %.

    Either your not doing the TPS calibration correctly or the TPS connector is fitted to the idle switch side of the TPS SWITCH itself.

    The Skyline TPS has 2 connectors on it, on is a variable potentiometer and the other is an Idle input switch used for Auto trans kick-down etc.

    Can you hit the F12 key go to Analogue Volt Input page and check the TP MAIN VOLTAGE from closed throttle to open throttle.

    You should see under 1 volt at closed and something between 4.2 - 5.00 volts at WOT.

    I have installed a lot of PNP's to Skylines and never seen this issue.

    Also if you read the issues page in the Skyline PNP Manual it mentions sometimes striking issues with Auto trans TPS input requiring 12 volts instead of 5 volts.

    Let us know what you find.

    Regards

    Dave.

  13. Hi Muz,

    put simply the VVT tables MUST be tuned on the dyno.

    Much like ignition timing there is no golden rule to what settings to use.

    Tell the tuner to advance blocks of VVT cells say 4 at a time in a square to see what difference it makes to the torque output from the engine,

    Simple, similar to ignition timing, advance and retard to find maximum torque, you will reach a point where the gains are marginal.

    If the engine is boosted I use MAP for most Y axis settings on tables.

    Upto the tuner himself what he wishes to use and why.

    Regards

    Dave.

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