Camal
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Posts posted by Camal
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Ok thanks for everything again,much appreciation
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I did that test and yes 12v on pin 5 with ecu unplugged and ignition on
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Ok ,so I got to do a test on the aux ,it is number 4 to be exact, a voltmeter test was done ...my findings were; set to test on it had .5v set to gp PWM with switch condition being ignition 0 it tested 5.49 v I'll do a test with the aux off and see what voltage I get however still no power up blue light, but I can connect to ecu fine and start vehicle@Adamw
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16 minutes ago, Camal said:
Ok thanks will test the aux...but definitely no blue light ...it powers up because I would hear the fuel pump and the motorcycle will start and run but no blue light on the ecu box at all
And no fault codes either
Just now, Camal said:And no fault codes either
And I can connect to the ecu and make adjustments
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Ok thanks will test the aux...but definitely no blue light ...it powers up because I would hear the fuel pump and the motorcycle will start and run but no blue light on the ecu box at all
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Anyone can assist thanks ,not because ofn that it was sent to @Adamw
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good day , so my last quote was with finding out how to do a temp gauge drive via an aux out, I got through with it and it was a success to some extent. Two things I want to draw to your attention, 1) my blue ecu light does not come on at all again, 2) the aux #4 thats what I used, does not always output to the gauge , sometimes I get a reading when engine is cold , other times nothing even when hot it's the same no output, ive adjusted my DC% table for it as for it to give a close reading to the software reading of the temp, at one time I switched it to do tach out and it will function for a few minutes then stop. I remembered when you initially was helping to get it started some functions would not work per application. However it started and drove , question is do you think I may be having possible hardware failure, if not what can I do to confirm. Any suggestions will do.
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Water temp
in G4+
Thanks much again
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Water temp
in G4+
Hey @Adamw I thank you for all assistance so far the machine is working fine, the gear outputs has been all calibrated and functioning , I just got one last question to ask... I am using a universal dash that has a 1 wire input to receive water temp signal , however the sensor the link uses has two , is there a output that will allow my dash to see water temps from the link ecu. If so plz expand on it thanks.
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On 3/11/2021 at 5:54 PM, Adamw said:
You would need 6 aux outputs to do that, do you have 6 spare?
Yes I do have 6 spares
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Hey guys how can I output gear position to a 6 wire digital gauge using the link g4+ extreme each wire is labeled per gear
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@Adamw season greetings to you and yours, not sure if you are of different beliefs or not but just giving my greetings, ...wanted to give a headsup on the WR250X Motorcycle update, you were correct with regards to the dwell i had to set it to 5ms instead of 3ms and the set up now that the engine seems to like is direct spark.instead of wastedspark., the bike starts fine when cold...ummm little extra cranking maybe needed when the engine is hot or half way hot to restart if i shut it off.................... i presenty installed an lc2 for afrs and found out she idles at 9.5 afr which is rich to me but what i need your assistance with is to explain when does the enrichment tables become active and howdoes that work/correspond with the mainfuel table. the only issue i have with it now is that while idling when it reaches operating temp it will slowly start dropping rpm ,then run more rich then stall. and i have no clue whats causing that, however thanks again for all your advise and assistance in advance
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@Adamw How are you , how is your health etc , just an update on things as i promised, i got to take the bike for a test ride but the log stopped at some point i have inserted my resent cal file and and idle log and test run log , only issue im having now is alot of cranking at cold start and at hot starts its not really starting if i roll start at hot it will start but cranking doesnt cut it , eventually my battery will run flat , one more thing at full rpm the engine like it cuts off and back on , not sure what that is ( almost like flat spots in the max rpm), so if you can kindly please take a look and give me a follow up on anything that seems not right or off. that will be greatly appreciated thanks
idle log 516 12-8-2020.llg rpm log 12-8-2020.llg recent cal , december.pclr
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Just now, Adamw said:
Sorry had some surgery this morning so my head is still a bit hazy from the sedation, but have you checked the base timing now with the engine running? Have you tried adjusting the master fuel up and down while running to see if it runs any cleaner when you move in one direction? You have 0deg in your ignition table so not many engines will be happy at that, try 10 or 15 at idle, ramping to 30 by about 3000 as a starting point.
ok hope all went well with your surgery , well no rush ill do the adjustments and play around with some figures as the hardest part is finished ill send you a log and cal on the final tune to ride and you can give your feedback....thanks
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Ok ,@adamw guess you have not seen those files as yet or they probably don't make much sense but nevertheless I was adamant to still work at it ( as I did with the car) so I decided to do some research of my own with regard to how this bike trigger would work , now what I found out is that the dwell even tho I set it at 3 ms it was still registering 1 on the log parameter, second the trig offset according to theory should be 285dgre....yet all the start up logs I sent it was firing on the exhaust stroke , so I decide to remove degrees by lessening the tooth count and eventually I got the bike doing way better on cranks to start and the catch's were closer and consistent until it stayed on but only @WOT this was happening at 198degr offset so I then looked at my settings and made a switch on the dwell from ms to dutycyle and it fired right I was able to rev ,but i cant idle it will only stay on at 25% throttle, please advise if possible what can be done here regarding idle,so the settings so far are : single cylinder, 2 stroke,direct spark,duty cycle ,dwell @3.0ms 198dgr timing offset,0 on ign angle ,master fuel at 5ms sequential fuel mode. So just some final assistance with idle and I can send a cal that can me noted incase there is another person that may need your Assistance
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good day adam , i did as you asked i will send you a log and cal file of the present set up , i can smell combustion , i am seeing puffs of smoke at some point in attempts at starting, no backfires , trig errors still, basically.... the engine still trying to catch to run but doesnt really hold it to stay running, im actually considering putting in a wideband lc1 for afr confirmation, but to do this il lhave to drill the manifold, let me know what you think.bike cal that has bike coughin to start.pclr
Log 2020-11-28 6;37;28 pm attemp 2 @283deg offset.llg Log 2020-11-28 6;47;54 pm attempt 4.llg
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Just now, Adamw said:
You dont have barely any fuel going in still. You master fuel is still only set to 2. Most likely it will need to be somewhere around 10-20. Also your fuel table just has a flat 7 in it. Typical fuel table numbers would be more like 30-100. Import the fuel table I have attached below. will be a closer starting point.
And, as I have said earlier in your other post you need to increase the dwell, the MSD's dont work reliably with 1.0ms at low speeds. 2.0 would be the bare minimum I would use.
The trigger errors are most likely due to the ecu having trouble detecting the missing tooth at uneven cranking speeds. It will probably improve as the tune gets better.
Can you try changing the engine type to 2 stroke. Leave ignition as direct and fuel as sequential. This in theory will give you the same as 4 stroke with wasted spark(which seems to be a problem), so it will spark every TDC and give more reliable start up. You will get twice as much fuel so master will need to be half of whatever it needs in 4 stroke mode (probably something like 5-10ms is my guess).
ok thanks for that info ,i actually did increase the dwell on the ignition to 3 which is max but on my log parameters it kept saying one , not until i changed it to duty cycle is when i saw like 14 and more ms dwell in my cranking log
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Just now, Camal said:
n that recent log starter fluid is also used ,i however noticed that i still have a ton of trig errors the only setting that doesnt give trigger errors are direct spark ignition and sequential fuel mode ,all other settings give trig errors ....please if you can give some clarification there would be much appreciated
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bike cal that has bike coughin to start.pclr
Just now, Camal said:give me a few min ill send the log
Just now, Camal said:Just now, Adamw said:Can you attach your most recent tune. And a log of it cranking again.
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14 hours ago, Adamw said:
An engine needs fuel, spark and compression to run. You said when it wont run the timing light still flashes, so that mostly eliminates spark as the problem. We can assume it has compression and is mechanically sound as you say it runs sometimes so we can cross that one off the list for now. So, the most obvious factor left is fuel. We can see in the log the ecu is commanding the injectors to fire, but this doesnt always mean there is fuel getting in to the combustion chamber. The commanded PW is very short in your log which is why I asked you to increase the master, not sure if you done that. I dont know what the injector size or the fuel pressure is in these bikes so I cant even guess how much PW it needs. But, there could also be any number of other fuel related problems that wont show in the log - for instance there may be no fuel pressure, or low voltage at the injectors, etc... The reason I asked you to do a test with starter fluid is it will quickly prove if it is a fuel problem or not and that gives you a direction to head based on the result of that test. The plugs being wet does not mean there is enough fuel for combustion - it just means there is no combustion.
Awesome !.....now I'm more a happy camper with explanations being sent from what you saw in the cal file and log ,ok progressing when I increase master fuel because I too thought fueling was an issue ,there was no combustion happening but the strong smell of fuel was evident with every exhaust stroke exiting the exhaust
4 hours ago, Monsterbishi said:This would be my thought, if it's sparking, the timing is set and has fuel I'd pick it's trying to fire 360 degrees out of phase.
I'd hazard it's one of the most common things that folk do...
That is correct , but what is confusing which bought me to this point is that it will not do this all the time and (2) on a random crank it will stumble on and fall out , this will happen two, three times and won't happen again ,not even the backfire , and another time a few stumbles and then a massive backfire .
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12 hours ago, Ducie54 said:
What was the out come in regards to the trigger pattern.
I made it known to support ,that I have a 12-1 tooth setup , because it has 11 actual tooth and 1 missing and my understanding was the software won't accept odd numbers ,but I wasn't given a confirmation that the trig pattern was good and accepted and everything looks good there. But the reason for sending the trig at the time was because I stated that I wasn't getting engine speed ,however I later corrected that statement along with others eg. My map was reading wrong ,( because the wire wasn't properly crimp) and I had some settings that were not changed from a different cal file . So as I made corrections to what support said to do ,I would have expected a request for a second cal / log file ,as to verify I did what was asked and that everything looks good ,
After that request wasn't made I assumed that support was trying to recreate my situation , so to try and assist on my ends I sent ,two pics of what my trig setup looks like and what I did so far and what the bike engine is doing in accordance to what was put in the config file , " the bike would crank and combust a few times then halt from doing it ., The reason I did all that was because I was trying to be as transparent as possible with the vehicle at hand as I know because it doesn't have a cam sync makes it a bit more challenging to get things spot on , the reason for my rant is at one point I felt like I was a minority and it even made me more upset when support said to me I was incompetent in following instructions ( as tho I'm a child) over this period it's only one person showed interest in assisting over such a large forum probably that's how it's setup (idk). But anyways support responded again and I'm going to work at this again ,I like the ecu don't get me wrong ,I purchase it and I wired into my 4 cyl corolla 4agte 16/16 and I got it to run and boost etc etc , however I wanted to try it on my supermoto as that came with a burnt ecu .
4 hours ago, Adamw said:An engine needs fuel, spark and compression to run. You said when it wont run the timing light still flashes, so that mostly eliminates spark as the problem. We can assume it has compression and is mechanically sound as you say it runs sometimes so we can cross that one off the list for now. So, the most obvious factor left is fuel. We can see in the log the ecu is commanding the injectors to fire, but this doesnt always mean there is fuel getting in to the combustion chamber. The commanded PW is very short in your log which is why I asked you to increase the master, not sure if you done that. I dont know what the injector size or the fuel pressure is in these bikes so I cant even guess how much PW it needs. But, there could also be any number of other fuel related problems that wont show in the log - for instance there may be no fuel pressure, or low voltage at the injectors, etc... The reason I asked you to do a test with starter fluid is it will quickly prove if it is a fuel problem or not and that gives you a direction to head based on the result of that test. The plugs being wet does not mean there is enough fuel for combustion - it just means there is no combustion.
Ok so today I did two things I just went and cranked the bike ,it bumped up twice to start and backfired then stopped I did the starter fluid it bumped up more and a massive backfire with flames shooting out of the exhaust
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Breaking up issue
in G4+
Posted
Does anyone know what generally causes a engine breakup at 50 to 100% throttle