Agret

Hi, sorry for the slow reply. 

I cant remember the wiring exactly, but it wasnt too hard to trace the wire colours back to the plugs on the motor to tell which ones were sensor ground or whatever. The factory engine/loom splices the grounds for the cam and crank sensor together to one wire.

 
Sorry I dont really have any other pics. It's just a plug cut out from a factory ECU, then wires soldered onto the pins and heat shrink over the top. 

Then at the other end, just crimping on the terminals that plug into the link ECU. 
Since the last update, I got a torsen LSD installed.

Ported the head, built an airbox setup, and tested some trumpet lengths. 

Also printed a new adapter that flips the throttles the other way up, so it just looks a bit tidier. 




Then took it to the drags, ran a 14.7 @ 95.5 mph with a 2.5 60 foot

Then took it to the dyno, managed to pick up another 6 horsepower by running it leaner and some other minor tweaks. 

So 141 wheel horsepower @ 7700rpm, pretty happy with that! Still has the factory exhaust which is awful, and I think the high exhaust pressure has been causing my wideband to read incorrectly. 

As my indicated 12.8:1 AFR on my canbus wideband was in reality around 11:1 at the tail pipe with the dyno's wideband.

So it picked up power as soon as we started leaning it out.



So I'm looking forward to heading back to the drags again shortly.
 
 

A friend loaned me some drag slicks to try.
So last night at the drags.
Suuuper busy, but it was really awesome to see a big crowd at the drags, lots of spectators too. Was a cool atmosphere.
So first run, set the hoosiers to around 20psi which is very high, but wanted to start out conservative.
Ran a 14.092 @ 100.21 mph with a 2.33 60ft.
Super happy with that!
I was convinced at this point that I'd get a 13 tonight.
Second run we dropped the pressures a bit, launch wasnt so good and I ran a 14.1 with a higher 60ft.
At this point I figured I'd probably cursed myself saying I'll get a 13.
Looking at the logs of both runs, the motor was bogging a bit when I was trying to roll into the throttle and clutch.
So third run, set a launch limiter at 5500rpm. Full throttle sitting on line, dump the clutch.
And crap. No wheel hop no big spinning, just felt like stretching out and releasing a rubber band.
It felt so much faster than my first run, I crossed the line realizing it must be a 13. Absolutely stoked beyond belief
Get my time slip and was blown away
13.83 @ 99.6 mph with a 2.1 60ft

Here's the video for it
 

I've made a few changes lately. 

Firstly I converted to an e-throttle ITB setup from a BMW S1000RR. 
This, by some luck had a port spacing almost exactly identical and right size for a 1NZ motor.
It also means I've got cruise control connected up, which works awesomely.

I'm now running some slightly shorter runners that have given some gains in the 6000-9000rpm region at expense of some midrange. Good for drags. 

I also went to a 13" wheel setup, so a 205/70/13 M&H dot rated bias ply tyre for the front. Then some skinny alloys with 155s on the back. 

Car weight is now around 790kg.



So I went to the drags again, and it ran great! 

I ran a 13.49 @ 99.5 mph. 

Had a 2.09 60ft so that could still probably improve a bit. But on the whole, was real happy with it. 
I was using a new shift light setup that I wasnt quite used to, so ended up buzzing the limiter a little more than ideal. 
I'm looking forward to getting out there again and experimenting some more with tyre pressures and launch rpm to find what's good. 
On the whole though, the car's been great.

Here's a video of the 13.4 run:
 

Also, because this is a weird/unusual engine and car combo. Especially for drags.
Some gentlemen from the Moving Our World youtube channel came along to film a night of racing. 
So they put together this really cool video, which is a nice keepsake for a successful night with a new PB.
 
Some interesting slow motion footage of the run where I was launching at 7500rpm with only 7psi in the fronts.
Still heaps of wheel spin, but it's amazing how a proper drag tyre will just keep propelling you forward anyway.
 
 
 

The CAN port is inside the ECU case.  Probably best to use the Haltech cables since our devices use a different pinout to theirs.  You will need a HT-130048 to connect to the ecu, and probably one of the extension cables such as HT-130025.  You will need to open up the ecu case and file a groove for the cable to pass through.