Jump to content

r33lew

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    53

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by r33lew

  1. R33 GTR - how to read speed through ECU with no dash.

    in G4x

    Posted

    Yeah 

    12 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    You can likely wire the sensor direct to a DI, it will depend how much voltage the sensor can generate but I expect it would be ok.  

    Yeah, so ive found that it is just a 2 wire sensor, one for sensor ground and one for DI, the bit im left with, is how will i configure this in the ECU?

     

    Thanks for your respons Adam

  4. Fluctuating AFR - closed loop doesnt seem to correct

    in G4x

    Posted

    10 hours ago, Adamw said:

    Ok, I had a quick look at your tune.  Some of the problem is due to a mistake in your deadtime table, the rest of it is just due to the CLL being set up to use the basic "stoich mode" with the lowest gain possible - it means it is very slow to react to changes.  You could try increasing that gain - around 5 would be more typical, but changing to the auto mode would give much better control.  

    It seems that possibly the fuel tune is quite a long way off too.  In that last log the CLL is pulling 17% fuel out at the end and the lambda is still 15% richer than target.  

    KD3HrHs.png

    Thanks adam, ive got a good log now with the afr changing. This is with CLL turned off the whole time.

    I pulled over 3 times, the first and last time the afr was on target but the second time was off. Sometimes it goes rich, sometimes lean.

    So with the dead times... when my car was mapped it was overcharging at like 16v.. once i fixed this my tuner said hell amend my dead times.. im guessing he just adjusted the 13v value.

    So as you suggested dead times, i read them along with battery votage and my afr/target.. they all seem to marry up, almost like when my car is charging .1v lower it sits at a different afr.. ill attach a screenshot below and a link to my log.

    So grateful for your time adam!

    https://easyupload.io/ii8z88

    LINK ABOVE

    20220914_211702.jpg

  5. Fluctuating AFR - closed loop doesnt seem to correct

    in G4x

    Posted

    36 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    Can you attach a copy of your tune.  CLL is trying to work, you can see it is pullng 13% fuel out at the beginning of the log and is down to -17% at the end of it.  But lambda hasnt changed much so it suggests there is something else going on - possibly minimum PW clamp or something.  

    Ill send you a direct message adam. Thanks for looking.

  7. Fluctuating AFR - closed loop doesnt seem to correct

    in G4x

    Posted

    On 9/2/2022 at 10:11 PM, Adamw said:

    I wouldnt suggest any changes until you have something that shows us the problem occurring.  The "CL Lambda Status 1" as shown above will be the first thing to look at when you think there is a problem, this will tell you the reason it is disabled or if it has reached the clamps etc.  

    sorry for the late delay, only just managed to get out, here is a short log of the car idling when i pulled over, ide say it was idling for 20 seconds before i logged and stayed like this.

    ccl not working.llgx

  9. Fluctuating AFR - closed loop doesnt seem to correct

    in G4x

    Posted

    So, my car is an R33 GTR RB26

    It made 620 on a hub dyno, has tomei type b drop in cams, single turbo ect. Its running a standard intake plenum with aac and iac still fitted.

    Im using a G4x with a motec lsu (lambda to can) 

    When i first got my car back i was surprised with how lumpy and rough it idled. Ive got a tablet with pclink constantly on display, when i switched over to 'lambda' layout it was floating about 12 afr and target was 14.6 at 80°.

    After a visit back to my guy who mapped it, it was discovered CLL wasnt switched on. But before switching it back on, the afr seemed to keep returning after being corrected manually, and then occasionly fly up to 17s..

    We figured this is an issue with my car not the map.

    So cll was switched back on with +/-20% correction 

    But after returning home it seems its bahaving the same, now whilst it sits at say 13 afr ive tried switching cll on / off and no difference is made.. 

     

    Ill pop a link for two logs, one is where i start the car from cold and let it idle up to 80° and one is me switching cll off then on.

    https://easyupload.io/m/d39955

  10. R33 GTR wont idle.. looking for suggestions.

    in Engine Tuning

    Posted

    12 hours ago, Adamw said:

    You only have between 1 & 3mS and less than 0.9% duty cycle showing in your log so there should be very little fuel going in, certainly a long way off flooding anyhow.  Unless the injectors are much bigger than you think or they are leaking.  Have you confirmed there is still 12V on the injectors when cranking?  

    I have there is at least 11v once the engine kicks into life, there is a dip in voltage as you can see from the logs when i first turn the key, but its traight back up to 11+ afterwards.

    I think its 'flooding' due to the fuel getting sent in, is not getting burnt, which would make me suspect a spak issue or ign timing, but having checked both. Im not sure.

    I did try cranking the master fuel up to around 8ms and the symptoms got worse.

    Out of interest, roughly what duty cycle and ms would you ecpect to see on idle, on this application?

  11. R33 GTR wont idle.. looking for suggestions.

    in Engine Tuning

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Adamw said:

    How old is the fuel? 

    Have you tried increasing fuel - try the master up around 8ms.  

    Nothing much else looks out of place,  I would also possibly try temporarily turning accel fuel off just to eliminate flooding from that.   

    Ive tried turning the fuel up. It just gets worse until it wont fire at all, and the tank was emptied and filled with fresh super fuel.

    I tried 0ing all my accel, cold start and anything that can effect my fuel table. I then adjusted my fuel table but still got the same result. Either not enough to start it, straight to too much to get a flood syptom

  12. R33 GTR wont idle.. looking for suggestions.

    in Engine Tuning

    Posted

    15 hours ago, Confused said:

    Attach a copy of your tune, plus a log from the PC with every parameter of what you can get it to do, even if it's just turning ignition on, starting the log, and starting out and it running for those couple of seconds.

    The fact that it does run at all means that fundamentally stuff is ok.

    yeah, to hear the car actually burst into life initially, gives me some hope for a simply fix!

     

    Nissan Skyline R33 GTR - Base map ADAM.pclx PC Datalog.llgx Trigger scope.llgx

  13. R33 GTR wont idle.. looking for suggestions.

    in Engine Tuning

    Posted

    This write up is going to be a little lengthy, but i really want to explain what ive done so far in depth, in hope for some help / suggestion to where i could even look! 

    Nissan Skyline GTR R33

    Forged ect, prp 12-1 trigger R35 coils Link G4x ecu.

    I bought the car with a spun shell. The car still idled fine, and i drove it from the flatbed to my garage.

    Ive rebuilt the engine, forged, cams, head work, single turbo, uprated fuel system, ect... the usual.

    Ive slowly pieced it all together over the last couple of years when funds allowed.

    Upon start up, i had a couple of issues with trigger (polarity) which quickly got sorted, i also clipped my cam sensor with the pick up and caused some damage. I checked them with a trigger scope and all seemed fine. But after weeks of not being able to start the car, i changed it anyway... an interesting find was that although fitting it back to (visually the same position) i then went from -62 offset to -92 offset.

    I then seen it a trigger scope the cam and crank were clashing, so i moved sensor position probably only 10 degrees or so and now there nowhere near each other.. but when i reset my timing expecting it to be out, i got -92 again.

    At this point my car will now start up for about 1-2 seconds, it hits around 800 rpm and dies, then every attempted start after this is less and less succesfull, until after about 4 times it wont fire at all.... at this point if i switch the injectors off, the car fires into life for 2 seconds and dies, i can then switch them back on, and repeat... this to me says too much fuel to spark

    Ive checked and changed every spark plug. Ive done the standard ignition test available on the ecu, ive also removed one spark plug at a time, earthed it and watched a good spark right through the 2 seconds of running.

    Ive measure my 12v+ for the coil pack harness, it drops to like late 9s at initial crank but as soon as it fires its straight up to 11.7ish. Ive check the wire locations on the wiring specialists coil harness. Also check for any resistance and got none.

    My ignition timing, i've checked many times, with 2 different guns. I lock my timing to 0 and select an offset that brings my tdc mark on my ati balancer up to the timing mark on the cover. I have also done a test where i left all my spark plugs in, and fired the car up (for 2 seconds) and kept an eye on timing, it stayed where the map is telling it the whole time (around 11 degrees) 

    These is effecting all cylinders as the plugs are going black evenly.

    Ive checked all the injectors are switching in the right order, the resistor pack has been bypassed (soldered) with no resistance as i have ASNU 1050s.

    Im getting good fuel pressure the whole time, 43 psi ish.

    Ive used a map which adamw has looked over and said should start it. Ive tried reducing my fuel slowly to the point it wont start and it just wont idle. If i the fuel just rights sometimes it will fluctuate between 400-800rpm for 5 or 6 seconds, any throttle at this point just kills it.

    My TPS and map sensor have been calibrated and read okay.

    Ive tried different timing offsets in steps of 10 and it just gets worse each way.

    Im just left scratching my head as to why the car wont run. Ive never had to take my car somwhere to be diagnosed ever, but ive got this booked in with a skyline specialist in a couple of weeks.

    I just thought i would put this out there and see what people think, or can suggest, other than BURN IT!

     

  17. Link CAN Lambda - not reading AFR

    in G4x

    Posted

    11 minutes ago, Ducie54 said:

    I can remote login to help get idling latter tonight if your free. 

    Using team viewer.

    Man im really grateful for that, but its the middle of the nighy here all ready. Where are you based?

    2 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    I have just made a couple of small changes to the map, but it is not bad now it is back to traditional.  Master fuel will likely need a tweak to make it happy. 

    Please check your MAP sensor calibration after loading, it was reading half what it should be when you last saved that map - assuming it come from the car?  

     

    NissanSkylineR33GTR-Basemap V1.1.pclx 436.75 kB · 0 downloads

    Thanks adam, very grateful!

    I will fix what ive found and store this map file.

    The map file has never left my laptop so is yet to be reading a map figure, but i will re-calibrate my TPS and MAP as a precaution anyway.

    Hopefully i can report back with some good news!

    14 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    I have just made a couple of small changes to the map, but it is not bad now it is back to traditional.  Master fuel will likely need a tweak to make it happy. 

    Please check your MAP sensor calibration after loading, it was reading half what it should be when you last saved that map - assuming it come from the car?  

     

    NissanSkylineR33GTR-Basemap V1.1.pclx 436.75 kB · 0 downloads

    Also, when im tweeking 'master fuel' would you start from the set 5ms and go up in increments of 1ms? And just find where it is happier?

  23. R33 GTR - where does Link ECU take 'battery voltage' from?

    in G4x

    Posted

    11 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    Yes, pin 45 in R32's and R33's is already overloaded in stock form and usually significantly less than bat voltage.  50 is sensor ground so not ideal to connect a high current device to that.  

    Okay, I've tried to wire my can lambda module to them. D***head. I wonder if this could be either the cause to my lambda errors or my running issues. Fingers crossed.. I will wire up a relay as you suggest directly from the battery and try to listen to your manuals a bit more!

     

    Thank you!

×
×
  • Create New...