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Anfurnyy

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Everything posted by Anfurnyy

  1. Thank you both, I will get it rewired for ground switching and go from there
  2. Having issues with my Auxillary outputs working to control my fans, and secondary fuel pump. I'm using Aux 5-8 (previously the ISC outputs to the throttle body) to control 2 fans that are powered via relay. All The outputs are configured as: Fan 1 & 2 Polarity: High Drive High Using Hella 40amp sealed relays for fans and a 35amp micro relay for the fuel pump. I verified: the relays are getting 12+v (13.5v measured) on from battery source on pin 30 Getting 12.25v from the output from ECU on pin 86 when set to "Test On" Verified good ground continuity (.2ohms) at the fan ground AND relay ground. Pin 87 on the relay never outputs the 12+v from the battery at the connector for the fans. If I run the switched 12v directly to battery source it activates and the fan turns on. Is it possible that the ISC motors output can push enough to activate the relays? Would I instead have to configure it as low so it pulls the relay to ground?
  3. Oh I guess I didn't know they provide temp as well. It's just a GM ethanol sensor not a link brand sensor so I'm not sure if that still holds true? It is wired into 12v. Its utilizing a speed density conversion harness from the MAF harness, for power ground and input to the ECU. I'll just wire it Into a DI, just seemed a bit more simple.
  4. Planning on using flex fuel in my PNP Grv4 G4+ and i recently found out the ethanol sensor is required to be wired into a DI not an Analog input that it already is. I also read that the Clutch switch needs to be wired into a DI also in order to use Launch Control Are both of these true and does this ECU use the clutch switch? I couldnt find anything for it as an input or pinout in the Pinouts in the content section in PC link but i just wanted to check to make sure so im not swapping stuff out for no reason. Thanks!
  5. Turned it off and made sure that the ECU had 12v. lambda 1 status shows "ok" now but says it's disabled. I'm assuming that due to some warmup enrichment settings? I tried another ground location for testing continuity and ground is showing .2 ohm now off the ground pin at the lambda module.
  6. Here is my Tune file Lambda troubleshooting.pclr
  7. I did a quick look at the tune and it does look line I had An4 set to lambda 1 as well. I'm assuming I just forgot to change it from the oem o2. Working on fixing the ground. However if I test the bus ground at the CanGauge harness I get very low resistance. So the harness SEEMS to have good ground there but further into the engine bay it's much worse?
  8. I did some more testing and the Can H and Can L are both only putting out 2.6v. I also found my Lambda is putting out code 26 for low battery voltage, and says it's disabled. I'm assuming that's probably the whole reason why but figured I'd share that here.
  9. ive got a PNP vr4link G4+ im using in my 1g dsm. I have a Can Lambda module and a CanGauge that im trying to use. I have the Can setup configured for both the Gauge and the Lambda Module exactly like the instructions say and the Gauge is working fine, showing all my other sensors however the Lambda keeps flashing back and forth from 0.0 to 1.52 quickly and randomly. HERE is a video of what its doing. The car does not run currently, im just trying to get everything configured before the first start. This is all done with key on, engine off. Off the battery with a charger on it, getting 12v (Link also sees this) - Verified the CANbus is getting 12v power to both Gauge and Lambda - Verified that the Jumper in the back of the Gauge was removed since its not at the end of the Bus - They both are connected to a CANbus using a splitter, and a Link Can Extension to reach the lambda module in the engine bay, with the Lambda module being the furthest away from the ecu. - Verified i have an 120ohm resistor on CAN H and CAN L on the lambda module - Verified resistance Between CAN H and CAN L was something like 65-68 ohms with resistor installed, and Key on Engine off. - Verified the wiring on the connectors is right per Lambda module instructions - Bus is grounded via common chassis ground - Tried 2 different Genuine bosch 4.9 sensors. One that came with the Lambda module (unused), and from an AEM Series x wideband (used) The only think that threw me off was that the ground continuity of the Lambda module ground was like 40ohms, while the Gauge ground was around 2ohms. Im really not sure if that is the issue but maybe someone can let me know. Obviously i plan to fix this, but just looking for some advice on what else to check. thanks for any advice
  10. I swapped them and the output voltage reads 0v all times now I think I got it. I reversed all the pins 6=1 5=2 and so on and the voltage is now linear when pressing the pedal.
  11. I'm converting my 1g to DBW using an Exo x APS and Bosch throttle body and having issues with the Accelerator Pedal The throttle body seems to work correctly and is able to calibrate without any errors, but the APS sub and main are stuck on a static voltage of ~1.41v all the time whether the pedal is pressed in or not. I verified that both 5v wires on the connector are getting 5v, I've verified that they are sensor grounded and have good continuity (.4 Ohm on both Sensor grounds via back probing to the ecu Sensor ground pin), I pack probed both the APS Main and APS Sub outputs from the APS harness and they both show ~1.41v No matter what. I tried another Evo x Pedal and got the same results. Tried swapping the APS outputs to An volt 9 and 10 and got the same issue. I triple checked the wiring diagram for the Evo X APS and its correct The 5v source and Sensor grounds are off the expansion harness for both the APS and the Throttle body At this point i'm not sure if both pedals are somehow bad or if im doing something wrong with the settings in link. I've attached the log file, I tried to capture everything in the logging menu but i'm not sure if i did or not. I've also attached my tune file as well. Thanks for any help ethrottle troubleshoot tune file.pclr ETHROTTLE TROUBLESHOOTING log.llg
  12. Got it. Aux 9/10 will go to TPS +/- and then the other inputs to whatever I set them in Pc Link. Thanks!
  13. So After looking at the "Generic Ethrottle Wiring" Diagram built into the contents section of the PC link software, I See that Aux 9/10 both need a 14v source in to power the pins, but then also need those same Aux 9/10 to run the Power to the Throttle body Motors.. How does that work since you need to 2 Aux's for both? Does the ECU 14v drive the power to those 2 Aux's? Does this mean you actually need 4 inputs, and 2 outputs? (2 IN for Aux 9/10 Power, 2 IN for TPS in the Throttle body, and 2 OUT for Power from the ECU via Aux 9/10 to the TPS on the Throttle body? or is this all different since ive had my G4+ modified?
  14. Ah I see. Cool well I'll set that relay output then. I think that pretty much answered everything then thanks!
  15. Could you explain why you dont need a physical pin? i figured youd need an output pin controlled by the ecu to turn on the relay for Aux 9 and 10? Thats really good to know about the ISC outputs, Thanks!
  16. Hey guys, ive been looking over my pin assignments trying to get everything setup in my base map for when i get my car running. Its a 1g DSM using the Vr4Link. I recently sent the ECU in to be modified to work with Ethrottle as well as add a few other inputs. With the OEM Harness i had a fuel pressure sensor wired into the factory EGR input, which doesn't exist on the Link Ecu so i had to find another Input for it. I also was using ECMLinks Plug n Play Speed Density harness (plugs into the MAF Harness) for IAT, MAP and Flex fuel. My issue is that i think i might be tapping out my Aux Outputs. I seem to have just enough inputs, but i might be missing one output for the Ethrottle control relay. I was looking to possibly repurpose my Purge Solenoid Output (Inj 5) but the Help Section says that its unable to control Aux Outputs. I don't see any additional Ign outputs, or any additional outputs to be used that matter. I was also hoping to find one to control radiator fans as well. What are my options for getting this to work? My Current pin assignments are attached as well as a few listed here: Ethanol Sensor replacing MAF Sensor input (AN Volt 2) Throttle Pos. + --> AN Volt 7 (Green) Throttle Pos. - --> AN Volt 8 (Grey) Fuel Pressure Sensor --> AN Volt 5 (Expansion) MAP Sensor --> AN Volt 6 (Expansion) Throttle Body Pos. + --> AN Volt 9 (White) Throttle Body Pos. - --> AN Volt 10 (Brown) Isolating Relay Output (EThrottle) --> ?? Fan Control Output --> ?? Still trying to Familiarize myself with the ECU layout, so i definitely could have missed/ Not understanding stuff. Thanks! test file.pclr
  17. Thanks a ton I'm going to look into that
  18. Thanks for the reply! Any idea on a cost for such a modification? I'd definitely be interested in some extra inputs as well.
  19. I have a G4+ Plugin ecu for a Galant Vr4 that im using in my 1g dsm. I was looking to setup a drive by wire setup but after doing some research it turns out i might need the E-throttle module or send my ecu in to have it modded for the on board e-throttle? I was hoping someone could confirm this. My bottom PCB version seems to be v1.1 thanks!
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