Admiral Akhtar

Perfect thank you, i'll see what I can do

I have a few LEDs in the Cluster at the moment that simulate a Shift/Warmup light, similar to what it is used in Factory BMW M cars. I would probably have them turn on sequentially, then flash briefly, as they are already setup on the GP PWM outputs to control their functionality

So I am aware that the Tacho has a key on Sweep option, but i'm just wondering if there is anywhere in the G4X ECUs that I can configure a Key on/startup Sequence to briefly trigger Aux Outputs?

For anyone that may experience similar issues and come across this thread, a 1k pullup to 12v worked perfectly

Perfect, will give that a go shortly

Could it be anything to do with having 2 LEDs on one IGN out?

Ah thanks for clarifying The positive side is connected to a switch 12v source, and the negative side runs directly to Aux outs. They are being used to power a sort of shift light array within the cluster, so IGN7 has 2 LEDs connected, IGN8 has 2 LEDs connected and INJ7 has 1 LED connected They are all exactly the same LEDs and all 5 are fed from the same 12v Switch source, but weirdly this issue isn't present on the INJ7 LED, which is why I assumed it was a possibly Aux out difference

Hello, I have wired a couple of low side driven LEDs to the spare Ignition drivers on my Xtreme ECU, but due to them being fly-wheeled Open collectors when in Auxillary output mode, the LEDs are still dimly lit when off My question is what do I need to do in order to prevent this? Wire a pair of pullup/pulldown resistors?

Amazing, thank you as always Adam

Hello, I am currently wiring a G4X Xtreme ECU in to an E36 chassis, and looking to use the Cruise control functions with the new DBW setup I have added a clutch switch, as the car didn't come with one from the factory, but I am just wondering if I can tap in to the existing brake switch wiring with a spare DI pin? and if possible, how would I go about doing this? connect to the 12v side of the switch with the pullup disabled?

Perfect, thank you for confirming

Hello, Currently wiring up a Link G4x Xtreme ECU and at the stage of wiring the CANbus accessories. The car will be using an ECU Masters EGT to CAN box, which requires CAN High and Low, Switch 12v, and Ground to operate. I will be using the Link 6 pin communications plug with CAN High and Low, but i'm wondering if I will be okay to use the ground on pin 1 for the ECU Masters box? or if this is a sensor ground, and I will need a seperate Chassis ground for it?

The other side of the trigger is connected to a switch live source taken from another relay in the fusebox Does this suggest the ecu will ground out the Aux outputs when switched off by default?

Hello, Hoping someone can possibly help with a strange issue. I'm helping a friend with his Plug and Play ECU on his E36, and have made some wiring adjustments to suit the Turbocharger. Namely adding a Boost Controller, Electric fan and feeding the Wideband Analogue signal in via the expansion loom. The issue we are experiencing is with Aux Out 4 on Pin 46 of the BMW Engine harness By Default it is configured to run the Fuel Consumption gauge on the cluster, but I have rewired it to drive the earth side of the fan relay trigger I have reassigned the Aux Out to the engine fan, cleared the GP PWM table that was previously setup to run the gauge, and configured the engine fan to kick on at a set temperature All of this works fine when the Ignition is on, and when the engine is running, but as soon as you remove the key and the car is switched off, the fan turns on as if the pin is pulled to ground. I thought it may be a wiring issue at first, so I tested with just this wire disconnected and the fan stays off, then I Pinned it directly to the pin on the ECU in case there was a branch off in the loom to somewhere else that may be grounding it, but still no joy Can someone please advise how we can rectify this? or is it an issue in the firmware for the plug and play ECU itself?

Perfect, thank you

Hello, Just wondering if it is possible for me to use an AN Voltage pin as a DI switch by using a 1k pullup on the AN Pin and running it through a switch to ground? I have run out of DI pins on my G4X Xtreme but need one more pin for my Meth Float Switch/Pressure switch (Unsure what setup I will use currently) Is this something that is possible?

Have you modified the Non Vanos loom as well? as the Cam sensor is pinned completely differently to the Hall sensor used on the Vanos loom, and will need to be modified to suit Here's a little table from when I was helping another friend with his NV setup on a Pnp ECU Pin VANOS CAM sensor pinout Non-VANOS CAM sensor pinout 1 +12V Signal 2 Signal Sensor GND 3 Sensor GND Shield You will also need to repin the TPS as they are pinned completely differently as well

Sorry to thread hijack, but if I was to connect both an AEM X-series Wideband and Oil pressure gauge via CAN, would I be able to use the provided "AEM X-Series UEGO Gauge" configuration in the link software for both gauges, but modify it slightly for oil pressure? or would it need a completely different configuration? Provided I obviously adjust the CAN ID on both gauges and on each stream to avoid conflicts to 1/384 and 2/385 respectively I have previously run the lambda through CAN, but never tried with the Oil pressure gauge

For future reference the M52 trigger mode will be incorrect for your engine and you should use the M50 Vanos configuration of Multitooth/missing tooth. This is because the Link configuration is for the M52tu engines in the E46, which come with dual vanos and continuously variable cam control as Adam stated. The E36 M52 is Single vanos and exactly the same system as used in the M50TU engines However it will run with both, but the Cam sensor may be configured incorrectly

If you're rapidly losing coolant to the point the sensor is your warning, the engine has likely already blown a headgasket or pipe and will be venting steam You're better off monitoring coolant temps for irregularities or coolant pressure for sudden spikes when the level fluctuates

I'd personally advise binning off the VW Coolant reservoir level sensor, if it's not absolutely critical to your build. They're known to commonly fail and in some case draw coolant back up the plug, into the loom and through the wiring to the ECU

OEM CAS on Nissan's is temperamental at best I'd honestly looking in to a rewire of the loom, if you contact Wiring specialities and told them you were no longer running a CAS sensor, they would probably tell you it needs to be modified as well

If it goes through the original CAS wiring on an aftermarket Hall sensor setup, the likelihood is that you will need to rewire the trigger wiring. OEM Nissan CAS sensors run 12v instead of the typical 5v that most Hall sensors run and it will likely be wired to the main relay power. OEM CAS sensors also usually ground through the body of the CAS sensor, so Wiring Specialities will have likely wired the ground wire back to an engine ground instead of the sensor ground in the ECU to avoid muddying the sensor ground. Your best bet is to run a seperate shielded loom for Taarks Hall Sensor Trigger Kit using a sensor ground and a 5v power, or verify with the instructions provided with the kit if these are the minimum requirements

I don't believe the O2 or MAF circuits have a DI input which you will require for the Ethanol sensor The Purge valve pin should be fine for the MAC valve, as being on a spare IGN channel, it will work fine for PWM. You can use the DI on the expansion loom that you currently have set for the MAP switch for the Ethanol instead, and then if you use a spare Aux/AN volt channel like the MAF AN volt 6 you previously mentioned as a GP Input under digital inputs, that can function as your MAP switch. Alternatively, you should also have spare DI channels under Pin 64 Blower Idle Up, Pin 65 A/C Request, or Pin 81 Auto Trans Range switch

As in you don't have access to the Link Software? or your mapper has locked the ECU?