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Robsevo9

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Posts posted by Robsevo9

  1. New motor build, won’t start. Evo 9

    in G4x

    Posted

    20 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    So only your very last pic at the bottom is at TDC?  Its a bit of a tough view to work from, but in that pic the exhaust cam now looks closer to the expected position, but the intake cam doesnt, it looks much more retarded (anti clockwise) from where it should be.   

    A pic of evo 9 cams below, you will notice on the intake cam that I have marked, the cyl 2 lobes are roughly aligned with the dowel.  When fitted in to an engine the dowel should be pointing up vertical when at TDC, so I expect in your picture we should see the number 2 lobes pointing vertical-ish as well if the cam was in the correct position.  It doesnt look like that in your photo but it could just be a bad photo angle to judge from. 

    Possibly the hub in mivec actuator has been assembled wrong - The hubs usually have 4 or 5 lobes and often can be assembled wrong (ie 90 or 72 deg out - just a general comment not evo 9 specific, I have never had one of these in bits personally).  

    vjeCsOR.png

    Yes the intake side is correct, pointing tdc, the hub was never taken apart and it ran fine before the build it was only removed and put back.

    IMG_9236.jpeg

    IMG_9235.jpeg

    The cams markings are all straight up and even, these are kelford cams 280/276 (9-TX280)

  2. New motor build, won’t start. Evo 9

    in G4x

    Posted

    20 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    Yeah your cam timing is wrong.  I dont remember if it is physically possible, but I would say since one of your earlier pics shows the exhaust cam dowel is correctly pointing vertical, then they are possibly swapped - ie the intake cam is fitted on the exhaust side. 

    At TDC, your number 1 Intake lobes should be pointing back towards the firewall, say about 10'oclock if looking from the cam sprocket, and the exhaust lobe should be pointing forwards, say about 2'oclock.  

    Pic below is looking from the opposite end but my pink lines indicate roughly where the lobes should be.  

    G1OJWpf.png

    This is now with the TDC, those pics were after I sent you the wrong pics. The cams mark ex and in

    IMG_9233.jpeg

    IMG_9232.jpeg

    IMG_9230.jpeg

    IMG_9229.jpeg

    Last two pic show the markings, this pic is tdc 

    IMG_9232.jpeg

    Intake side is around the 4oclock

  5. New motor build, won’t start. Evo 9

    in G4x

    Posted

    17 hours ago, Adamw said:

    Can you give me a photo of the cams with the cam cover off with the engine at TDC.  

     

    It’s not allowing me to post a pic, it’s saying I’m exceeding the max total size 

    Got it!

    IMG_9222.jpeg

    IMG_9221.jpeg

    7 hours ago, Tim M said:

    No doubt very frustrating - but Link assistance will get you going - they identified an anomaly with my 4G63 build as well - thanks!

    It’s not an ecu issue. Will they help if it isn’t? I’m getting spark, and last the car ran there was nothing wrong with the wires it would start right up 

  7. New motor build, won’t start. Evo 9

    in G4x

    Posted

    41 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    As already mentioned the log shows the ecu has all signals needed to run the engine and it shows fuel and spark being commanded.  All important sensors are working and giving realistic values.  

     

    It is very very unlikely to receive a DOA ECU, they are all tested for 24hrs at extreme high and low temperatures with all IO monitored before shipping.   Especially when everything is working in the log and you have already physically confirmed you have fuel and spark, there is not even a hint that there could be an ecu issue.  

     

     

    Thanks Adam, I’m just lost! Yes I tested the spark on 1-3 and it had…. I’m going to wait untill I get the ecu back and try again on all 4

  8. New motor build, won’t start. Evo 9

    in G4x

    Posted

    1 hour ago, k4nnon said:

    I would plug the ecu in. I actually dont remember if power goes through the ecu before it gets to the sensor or not. Easy enough to find out, just key on the car without the ecu plugged in and see if you have power and ground at the sensor. If no power and ground then try with the ecu plugged in. You can use a stock ecu plugged in for testing if your link ecu is getting checked.

    Ok thanks, I don’t have a stock ecu, but I will check with out it and when the link comes back I’ll test again. Can you imagine it’s the ecu that’s acting up? I sure do hope so I been chasing this issue for days

  9. New motor build, won’t start. Evo 9

    in G4x

    Posted

    26 minutes ago, k4nnon said:

    The crank sensor will be a 3 wire sensor. Check for Power and Ground on the power and ground wires. The third wire will be the signal wire and will change voltage while the engine is turned over. You should be able to turn the engine over by hand and see a change in voltage on the signal wire as the trigger passes the sensor. If no voltage is not present, or if voltage doesnt change at all then there is a sensor or wire issue. Cam sensors can be checked the same way.

    Thanks, I’m putting the engine back together this weekend and will test for that. Does the ecu have to be connected? Or the key on?

  12. New motor build, won’t start. Evo 9

    in G4x

    Posted

    30 minutes ago, k4nnon said:

    @Robsevo9 It could be, Like I mentioned there are many ways to build an engine, If it works without any issues then great! Just not off to a great start lol. So If everything checks out mechanically then you gotta start fishing electrical and tune related.. Ill keep thinking of why it woudnt start. Iv seen the mivec gears installed wrong on the cams and it will smash the alignment pin into one of the oil holes. Its hard to do but iv seen it. The timing marks will line up but the engine wont have compression. If you have good compression that is unlikely. Good evo 9 compression is around 160psii believe, can be more or less depending on piston specs. 

    Pistons are wiseco 6656M855, the micex gear is good and Lined up with the valve cover

  13. New motor build, won’t start. Evo 9

    in G4x

    Posted

    2 minutes ago, k4nnon said:

    hmmm, kinda an odd reason to just eliminate them. they actually work very well for cooling the piston and lubricating the pin and cylinder walls. They arent expensive to replace. As far as them breaking, Iv seen this happen because they get installed crooked or not positioned correctly. Then depending on piston design and skirt length, the skirts can contact and break off the squirters, More likely in a stroked engine, but most times they can be carefully bent into a position that doesnt contact anything and they will live happy there. Iv built many performance 4g63s and never heard of anyone blocking off the oil squirters. But many ways to build an engine. My suggestion would be install them for peace of mind vs remove them for peace of mind. I dont have experience with how a 4g63 runs with them blocked off so that would be word of others but they are there for good reason.

    I wouldn’t know much, the guy who did my block is very good so I trust his advise. We will see how it goes I think this is like a what’s the best clutch or what’s the best offset kinda thing lol correct me if I’m wrong this is my first build.

  15. New motor build, won’t start. Evo 9

    in G4x

    Posted

    7 minutes ago, k4nnon said:

    Yes the blocked passages are supposed to be that way. Crank and cam triggers look correct for tdc positions. I see you are using a balance shaft elimintor. Is it a full length race shaft or is it just the stub shaft? And also the balance shaft bearings were flipped around to block the oil ports right?

    Yes for stub and yes both holes are covered also 4 oil squirters are blocked off… I’m sending the ecu to link for an update and to check if there’s anything wrong with it… the car should of turned on. I even removed my alarm thinking it was being creating some block. But nothing. Once I get the ecu back we will see

  17. New motor build, won’t start. Evo 9

    in G4x

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Adamw said:

    That looks ok yes.  Now to confirm it is on TDC#1 compression you can look at #1 intake lobe through the oil filler cap, and check its pointing towards the firewall - or if you have the top belt cover off then the pulley marks should be at the top.  If you're not on TDC 1 then rotate another 360deg.  Then pull the cap off the exhaust cam sensor housing to confirm the small tooth is pointing north-west or about 10:30 o'clock.  

    z0w1AgK.png

    Also I called link about the issue I’m having (pop before turning the car on) and I’m sending out the ecu tomorrow.  Thanks for that.

  18. New motor build, won’t start. Evo 9

    in G4x

    Posted

    21 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    That looks ok yes.  Now to confirm it is on TDC#1 compression you can look at #1 intake lobe through the oil filler cap, and check its pointing towards the firewall - or if you have the top belt cover off then the pulley marks should be at the top.  If you're not on TDC 1 then rotate another 360deg.  Then pull the cap off the exhaust cam sensor housing to confirm the small tooth is pointing north-west or about 10:30 o'clock.  

    z0w1AgK.png

    I took the head off to check a leak I thought I had but didn’t, before I did I zip tie the cams with cylinder 1 tdc… here’s a pic of both cams 

    IMG_9019.jpeg

    IMG_9018.jpeg

  19. New motor build, won’t start. Evo 9

    in G4x

    Posted

    7 minutes ago, aerace_fab said:

    I’ve had situations in the past where builders would have the T-belt extremely tight and the engine would crank over slow is that possibly your issue? Can you check the tension of the belt? 

    The pin goes in and out easy so the T belt is fine. Thanks

  21. New motor build, won’t start. Evo 9

    in G4x

    Posted

    15 minutes ago, k4nnon said:

    @Robsevo9 Def need to do the ignition sync when it gets running but as said above, the simple checks need to be confirmed first. As far as the new build goes. Evos need crank and exhaust cam position sensors correct to fire. The Intake and exhaust cam sensors do have different part numbers and can be switched in the housings. I have never confirmed that a vehicle would not actually run with the sensors switched but that is one thing to check. The exhaust trigger wheel can also be installed 180 degrees off from correct as well, this could actually cause the ignition to fire at the incorrect time. This is easy to check. If you get the engine to TDC, remove the exhaust cam sensor and you should be able to see through the bore to the back side of the housing. If the trigger is 180 off, as soon as you look in the bore the trigger will be blocking from seeing through any further. The slow engine cranking issue could be weak battery or weak grounding somewhere. Starter could be getting tired. Compression check is always a good confirmation to make sure its capable of firing. Evos are very easy to foul plugs with a new build, especially if the fueling isnt correct. Check the plugs, if they are black they may be fouled and not firing. Fuel pressure check, TP calibration, MAP/BAP/IAT in check. If all that seems good then it shoudnt be too far from starting. Let us know if you figure anything out.

    Hey gm, yes all is aligned good, plugs are new and white with no signs of use. I’m going to check my battery and starter. It does crank over slow but not dead slow almost lazy

  22. New motor build, won’t start. Evo 9

    in G4x

    Posted

    15 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    Before you go digging through the endless list of most likely irrelevant possibilities, I would always take a step back and think about the fundamentals first - Really all you need to run is compression, fuel, and spark at the right time.  And usually those fundamentals dont even need to be close to perfect for there to be at least some signs of life, the fact that you have no signs of life at all suggests one of those fundamentals is missing. 

    Your log shows the ecu is commanding fuel and spark, you have apparently also tried spraying starter fluid with no improvement so that mostly rules out fuel from being the factor that is missing.  So spark, spark timing or compression.   Your trigger offset is correct for an evo, but I know it is possible to fit both the crank and cam wheels incorrectly on the 4G63, so have you confirmed ignition timing with a timing light while cranking? 

    Have you confirmed there is acceptable compression?  Cam timing confirmed?  

    Why is it cranking RPM so slow when batt voltage appears to be ok?  Does the engine sound tight/slow when cranking?  

     

    It does sound tight and slow when cranking. Cam and crank are fine. Motor is fine. New pistons and rings. Everything in the engine is brand new. I haven’t done the timing light thing. I wouldn’t know where to begin.

  23. New motor build, won’t start. Evo 9

    in G4x

    Posted

    2 hours ago, Adamw said:

    The backfire at power up was a hardware issue on some of the early G4X ecus, the ignition output could go high very briefly during boot up which was enough for some coils to generate a spark.  This can be returned to Link to be updated later when/if you want to.  Its not going to stop it from running though.   

     So I found 4 grey wires missing a wire I think?
     

    Pin 34 ground signal to 4 black wires

    Pin 78 an volt signal 4 green wires 

     Pin 49 ground tps map to 4 black wire

     

    Pin   ( ?)4 grey wires missing wire, does a wire connect there?

    IMG_9002.jpeg

  24. New motor build, won’t start. Evo 9

    in G4x

    Posted

    51 minutes ago, David Ferguson said:

    Is there any chance the cam was installed 180 degrees out of phase?  This would fire your ignition on the exhaust stroke.  Sometimes this makes a pop in the exhaust, but often it just silently doesn't have any compression so it won't run.

    Nah I triple checked this build even had someone else check it lol. It’s just not starting

  25. New motor build, won’t start. Evo 9

    in G4x

    Posted

    3 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    The backfire at power up was a hardware issue on some of the early G4X ecus, the ignition output could go high very briefly during boot up which was enough for some coils to generate a spark.  This can be returned to Link to be updated later when/if you want to.  Its not going to stop it from running though.   

    Ah ok thanks…. I’m lost with this. Idk what else it needs if it was running before my build and now it’s not and I haven’t changed any wires at all

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