TranzerZ

I did forget to mentioned that on a couple of my cruises, the VDC and Slip lights came on and stayed on. The SES light during those 2 trips were already on due to my error when I replaced the coil packs and forgotten to plug the MAF sensor plug back in. When I did plugged it back in, the SES light were still on but I did not have a laptop and Link software to clear the codes. So not sure when the VDC and Slip lights came on, if the SES light would of came on as well with it. If so, those 3 lights would indicate a faulty camshaft position sensor? And another question that is off subject. Do I really need a MAF sensor when Link can just run off of the MAP? My mechanic told me to buy the aftermarket one and so I purchase the PMAS HPX MAF for $280. I'm starting to think I just wasted my money on this.

It's been raining everyday here in SoCal so finally gotten a chance to take it out today. I'm hoping I did this log file correctly. Let me know if you need me to do anything else. Your help is much appreciated! PC Datalog - 2023-01-7 4;02;38 pm.llgx

I believe I figured out my stalling problem . It seems my Tial BOV's 11 psi spring is too weak so it would still flutter open even at idle and doesn't stay close. I added 3 washers in there to tighten the spring and it helped immensely. The engine will catch itself faster and stabilize and sometimes it's just normal. I stalled only once, rather than a million times. I wonder if it's a faulty BOV or just installed in the wrong location for my setup. I initially want it installed right before the MAF but there was no room, so the mechanic installed it between the turbo and intercooler. Maybe better between the intercooler and throttle body? I haven't gotten a chance yet to install the boost solenoid so I'll give an update when I'm done.

I am not sure about that statement and the mechanic was the one that installed everything. I think maybe it was just assigned to the Aux 6 & 7? I'm just reading off of what the configuration is saying. I've been doing much research and learning what I can about Link. The CAN-Lambda L and H wires should just connect directly inside the ECU via 4-pin connection? So maybe the stock O2 sensor harness is just hanging out somewhere in my engine bay?

Thanks for the response Adam. My Aux 6 & 7 are occupied, connected to CAN-Lambda, so would it still be ok to share the line with them? Or better off connected to an empty slot?

Hi everyone and Happy New Year! I just had my 2004 G35 rebuilt with single turbo and Link G4X and am excited to learn everything about it. I have not brought it in for dyno tune yet and so I wanted to install the 3-port boost solenoid beforehand. I did search and only found 1 topic on this but it was for the R33 and so I wanted to make sure specifically for my 2004 G35. So 1 wire of the boost solenoid goes to a switched +12V supply and the other wire taps into the LINK ECU's Ign 7 or 8? My other question. My mechanic did a basic tune to get the car started and running but there is one issue. When I'm driving and let go of the throttle, say at 2000 rpm or above, and when the needle drops, it seems the engine cannot catch itself and would stall half the time. I would need to feather the gas pedal to catch itself to normal idle. There were times when it stalls like that, the ECCS fuse blows. Is that something related to the "Zero Demand Table" and is that something the tuner can fix?