BeefNugget

Hey guys, so I've wired my lambda sensor up and the readings are the same on the gauge, so all good there. Here is a log, the car seems to be running rich (upped the injector to 1000cc from 700cc which helped) and there is the occasional stumble (once every 3-5s). Kind of feels like how a big v8 will lurch on idle. What can you tell from the log? https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1YUaQM-q8ER3SZmmzc-I7WI8x9VaOY5Yy?usp=sharing

Ok, so I adjusted the throttle stop, and that seemed to work. As I turned the screw, it suddenly dropped to the correct idle, idk if that's normal. Also, it would then idle again at ~1500 randomly, and if I adjusted the throttle stop a little, it would then drop right back to the correct idle speed. Also, I took it for a test run around the block. It seemed fine, but there was a strange deep vibration on deceleration. Does this show up in the logs? Because if not, it might be exhaust vibration related, as my new exhaust sits very close to my diff. Attaching the log and tune: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1wmVdAF2qSn2iotbbZbv8TZb6H3jt7EtD?usp=sharing

Ok great. The wastgate %DC 1 table is zeroed out so all good. Yeah I saw that CAN cable but would rather solder up my own. But not having any luck finding the right connector on its own for a reasonable price. I'll spend some time looking for a vacuum leak. Do you have any tips on narrowing down leaks. Heres the tune: https://drive.google.com/file/d/195_rv5IHWPybjwFiKjMoN6lPAehE9Z42/view?usp=sharing

Ahh sorry, should be fixed now.

Ah ok. Heres the log. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UYf-DReYX76JPRl-CaXaZXnP9VO58_3l/view?usp=sharing

Here's a log of the idle. It's strange, it idles nicely on startup, but after any throttle input it then idles at 1500rpm. Sorry it's not letting me attach files. Says there is a 17 kB limit?

Thanks for taking the time to write this all up. So it looks like my car matches the first pic (Return system) so does this mean MAP referenced was the correct setting. Also, I do have the exact same setup as prev owner as I bought everything off him, so boost control setting should work but I'll follow your advice anyway. When you say change it to 0hz do you mean the PWM freq, cause if so it says the min is 1. Also not quite sure if I set the MAP limit correctly, I've attempted to set it to 10 in my tune. For the fuel cut table I have it changed like so: Is this what you meant? And yep totally agree about wideband setup. Currently have one installed and showing on a gauge but will be wiring it to CAN hopefully soon (Do you know where to get the connector for the board from I'd like to solder up my own connection but cant find the right plug). So I've made all these changes and now the car won't start. I'll attach the log (EDIT: REMOVED LOG FOR UPLOAD SPACE). Attaching the updated tune if you need it. Wait, I had the MAP limit at 70 kpa not 170. Now it idles properly.

I've changed the fuel and ignition tables to copy the prev tune (I'll attach mine and the prev tune) and took a log of idling and a bit of a rev. Does it all look in order. There was a bit of bouncing at idle between 1500~1600 rpm, but you'll see that in the log. 6.7.23-returnless-afr.change.pclx Stock_Tune.pclr PC Datalog - 2023-07-7 1;42;23 pm.llgx

Ok thanks! Considerring that my fuel pump was euro spec I'll assume that returnless is the correct setting. Is there anything that also needs to change with this change? Sorry if I'm asking dumb questions, a lot of this is going straight over my head cause this is the first experience I have with tuning software (or tuning in general). I'm also copying over the prev owner's boost control settings (I'll attach the tune). Do these look right? I'm using a turbo smart 4 port solenoid but only using the bottom two ports (gotta make do with what I have). Working-boost.returnless.pclx

Awesome that fixed everything! I started the car and let it warm up before giving it some revs. I'll attach the log (It's in a zip because its slightly larger than the max upload). Does it all look correct? Also the AFR was reading about 12.8 at idle and stayed just above 14 after I gave it a rev. Thanks so much for all the help. 6.7.23.zip

Ok so I grounded the pin and I heard a relay under the dash switching and the pump running.

I think when I had the car running yesterday, I remember noting that the tacho wasn't working. Your quick maths was dead on haha. Does this mean I should switch the tacho from Ign 6 to Aux 2. I'll ground the red and white wire now to test. Oh quick question, I'm going to slip a wire into the plug and then ground it, so do I slip it into the back of the connector when it's still in the ecu. Or take the plug out, leave it out and ground the wire without the plug connected to the ecu. I'm assuming I'll have to turn the key to on either way to test.

Noob question, but how do I remove the wires from the connector easily? Also where is a safe spot to ground the wire? Oh and ign 6 is setup for the tacho, which is strange as the link manual says the tacho should be aux 2.

Yep Ign5 is setup as fuel pump. No priming with key on. No change when Ign 5 test is on. Also, whenever I turn the key on the egr solenoid (Part no. B69N18740) clicks several times, and then again after 3 or 4 seconds. Don't know if this is relevant.

Looks like there is no light green wire there (Red circle). However, looking at this site which is Australia specific (I'm in aus btw) (https://bartuneengineering.wordpress.com/mx-5-miata-information/australian-mx-5-nb8a-1999-2000-ecu-pinout/), it seems like the fuel pump relay is at 3P, which is a red and white wire (Purple Circle). According to the Link manual, this is where the fuel pump relay should be for euro spec cars.