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muzzytt

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Posts posted by muzzytt

  1. bit of an old thread but it covers some of what I'm looking for.

    I've got a Toyota 2jzgte vvti engine . its got a smallish GTX3076 turbo with 1.06 housing I get Full boost at roughly 3400 rpm it pretty much builds boost from 1500 rpm .

    now I suspected my vvti maps were not touched by my tuner he said playing with the camshaft made not much difference which I think would be true for outright power. the point was to use the vvti feature to improve midrange of the power band.

    I have seen a few vvti tables around the site and most are using tps position to activate the cam. I see on mine its based off MAP is there a preferred way to activate it.

    I'm going back for a new tune and want to give my tuner as much info as I can to improve the engine throughout the rev range wich the engine is capable of .

    Im running the flex fuel so I am tuned to run 98 or e85 though I do run e85 mostly.

    so with above info what should my vvti map looks like can I improve response below the full boost rpm of 3400 ? taking into consideration I have installed new tomei 260ex and 252 inlet cams I have also installed an adjustable cam gear.

    my fuel consumption is really bad try like 22 ltrs per 100km !

    thx for any help advice !

    Muz

  2. Good afternoon,

    For an E-throttle system the TP Calibration you want to use is the one in the E-Throttle Setup menu. The other one (off the Options Menu) is for non e-throttle systems.

    From the faults codes you have it sounds like the e-throttle motor was trying to move the throttle plate, but seeing no movement. If the e-throttle motor is unable to move the throttle plate then the E-throttle TPS calibration is going to fail also. One way to test the e-throttle body independently from the ECU is to apply 12 volt and ground across the two motor pins (on the throttle body), this should cause the throttle plate to snap fully open or fully closed. Reversing the polarity on the motor pins will cause the throttle plate to move in the opposite direction. When doing this be very careful that your fingers are not near the throttle plate and also only touch the power and ground onto the motor pins for a moment.

    If the throttle body does not open and close the throttle plate when doing the test above then it has a fault.

    Scott

    Hi Scott

    further investigations pointed to a problem with the actual motor as I had a spare throttle body and found it to be ok. so I swapped the motor into the throttle on the car and after a few goes at getting it to calibrate all is now good .

    seems the bad motor was drawing too much current and tripping the failsafe of the vipec rightly so !

    thanks guys !

  3. ok Ive played with it some more no joy.

    so far I have got fault code 69 and 84 seems like something is causing it to draw too many amps that's causing the ecu to shut down the e throttle system.

    I opened the throttle system cover where the gear wheels are and found 3 teeth on one of the throttle plate gear to have broken. I have put in the spare wheel I have from the spare throttle body.

    another thing I tried re calibrating the TPS via vipec and when I full press the throttle I get 100% but when I let go and try do the 0% closed throttle it still shows 100%

    also when trying to calibrate the foot position sensor and the tps via the e throttle settings the tps says no movement and fails on the Tps and no joy with the other one either.

    not sure if its the ecu or something else problem devolped when I gave it some and havnt been able to work it out since

    not sure if ill keep chasing this I mite just rip it all out and put in the non vvti intake manifold very frustrating.

  4. All was running fine then yesterday the throttle was shut down and engine speed limited to 1800.

    its throwing a fault code of 69.

    I've tried a spare throttle body i have and the same problem.

    Nothing has been done to wiring lately.

    I've tried resetting the fault code but keeps happening.

    When i tried re calibrating you can see the throttle value jumping up and down.

    Now I'm suspecting the tps sensor but can't be sure.

    Any suggestions?

    Cheers

  5. I just wanted to update this thread for future use.

    as you all know with ignition on fuel pump would continually run.

    well I hate to admit it after going over the wiring I realised I had aux 2 selected instead of aux 5.

    Im happy to report fuel pump turns off after the pre determined 3 seconds.

    case closed

  6. Ok I've wired it up as you said dave and seems to be working . When I pull handbrake up its says launch control armed. Handbrake

    Off it says disarmed.

    so ive put it as mode 2 and limitet as ignition cut.

    its degault set at -30 degrees.

    I gave it a test at 2500 with it armed and got an almighty bang from exhaust.

    Is the severity of this adjustable or is this normal ? I'm thinking 2500 rpm might have been a bit low?

    Thanks heaps and looking forward to traction control on the I series so I can upgrade to it !

  7. was looking through settings and noticed if fuel pump selected in aux 6 instead of 2 it gives more options than when aux 2 is selected is there a reason why ? I did wire it up as was in the vipec v88 wiring info pdf was that wrong ?

    if I was to wire directly to the new bosch relay wich aux output should I use to activate it ?

    cheers

  8. Hi all

    I have got a supra with the v88

    Ive had it tuned by reputable tuner. let me say this the tune was nearly finished when the clutch cried enough. car is running flex fuel setup.

    initially I was getting errors due to sub and main inputs on the Toyota not being linear. so the tuner could not really tune the idle. after another user pointed out the fact that the 2jzgte e throttle foot position sensor does not read past 80% so we wired the main input to both the main and sub input of the vipec. so it sees what ever the main tps is seeing in both inputs . that issue solved .

    until we get the clutch in ive got the car back and have been driving it around on low boost 7psi however had issues with the idle especially when starting first thing in the morning I would drive off cruising then would notice idle stuck about 2000 rpm and would stay there. if I switched engine off and switched it back on it would idle back at normal idle .

    I think I have sorted this issue out but not entirely sure.

    the other issue is now It seems ok but every few seconds the idle would drop then come back up again.

    after looking through this forum Ive come across some vvti tables and they look way different to what mine is tuned at. if someone could look at this that would be appreciated.

    I have attached my pcl as it came from my tuner and also a new one with what I modified on it mainly with idle maps e-throttle calibration etc.

    viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1351&p=8300&hilit=.pcl#p8300

    this is the thread with the vvti tables that look way different to mine. my question is when the car goes back to my tuner should I mention this ?

    cheers

    Muz

    yavuz.pcl

    new idle maps.pcl

  9. You will need to check where the fuelpump control is wired in to the ECU. As I suspect its not on the AUX out you are expecting. Or there is a wiring issue somewhere else in the loom.

    Hi Simon

    I double checked the wiring a20 us connected to the fuel pump signal wire.

    A29 connected to the +5v.

    When I had stock ecu it all worked fine so a bit baffled.

    If I disconect A20 and leave a29 hooked up as per the wiring diagram the fuel pump is continually on. If I disconect a29 also fuel pump stops.

    In the New menu it has supra 1jz selected with polarity set high.

    I'll check out the wiring out near fuel pump something is not correct

  10. That's probably it. I was thinking that it was going by another name. Have you tried to toggle between Low and High?

    Hi mate,

    while ignition was on I went into the aux output that has fuel pump and turned that aux output off nothing happened fuel pump kept going . seems we have an issue somewhere else !

  11. Go to the fuel pump output pin setup and turn the pullup resister opposite to what you have it now.

    This happened to me on as well on my first hookup.

    I went into aux output where the fuel pump is and there is no pull up resistor setting only polarity (low and Hi setting)

    Simon ?

  12. Thanks Scott after fiddling around I finally got the ethanol display into the main screen.

    The option is in the fuel tab.

    I've relayed this to my tuner.

    See if this now will tell us if we have a signal or not.

    Is there a way to check the gm sensor to see if it's ok or not?

    Cheers

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