jonnyt80

Run the trigger scope to check the crank signal. It could the the polarity is wrong

Ok i have given up on getting a cam signal for now till i find a suitable alternative. Im going to go with Multipoint fuel setup. According to the datasheet the firing order is 1-4-2-5-3-6 on my engine Whats the best way for setting them up for multipoint injection? I was thinking 1-2-3 4-5-6 on 2 injection drives if thats possible or does it need to be even and odd? Thanks

Ill need to see how thick the timing case is to guage if its an option. If not whats the cons on running multipoint as opposed to sequential on this 3.0l N/A engine

No its a fixed gap as the sensor fits onto the timing case unfortunatly Have also swapped the sensor off another car and its the same. Going to do more checks later

Have now swapped the polarity on the sensor. Voltage is still low but the car did cough a few times but sounds like my timing is wrong. Im using a vw 1.8t ignition amplifier with the ford dummy coil. Bosch number finishing 211. Have played with the trigger offset but to no avail

The 4-8 base map should have MAP enabled if its PnP and should start the car if its setup correctly even on the 4g92 1.6 mivec.

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/11540-converting-stock-71-240z-tacho-to-electronic-good-for-engine-conversions/ Try this if you cantfind a converter

Yeah ill send the file when I get back home later in the week.

Yes i see roughly 250rpm when cranking

hi david i have lowered the arming voltage as low as it goes which is 0.2 when this snapshot was taken. all my earths seem good but i will go over them again. The battery is on charge so ill give it another go during the week. Only issie with the sensor is its a fixed fitting where i cannot alter the gap. At present the wiring is connected through the car loom but i may just run the sheilded wire all the way to the cam sensor. Car starts and runs off the original ecu but i know the link is a bit more sensitive. on checking for trigger errors there are none present and both triggers turn green when cranking so the ecu is definatly seeing a signal albeit a very low voltage. how does trigger look?

Afternoon managed to get some more wiring done and got the triggers installed. i gave the car a turn over to check my signals. trigger 1 voltage looks a bit low but could be down to the battery. trigger 2 has been setup as cam level but looks more like a pulse in the 720 cycle. again voltage is low so may have to run the sheilded wire all the way to the sensor. any comments would be greatly appreciated

I havent load tested it i was just a bit worried something was wrong.

Nothing has been hooked up to the aux outputs as of yet. I was checking wiring on the car and tested one of the aux outputs by accident as it was in the way and i noticed it had 12v on it. I checked the software and all aux outputs are off so was a bit unsure as to why there is a live down this output

Was checking my outputs and even though they are off in the ecu a couple appear to have a feed on the 12v. Anyone seen this before ?

Thanks simon any input on ALT control

Afternoon all. Im looking for a bit of advice. Is there anyway in which the alternator charge can be controlled by the ecu. The stock unit was wired into the ecu so im assuming it was controlled to some degree. I know evos have an ecu controlled ecu so this may be similar. Its on a ford duratec 30 V6 engine. Im wiring it up this week and dont want to spike the ecu if it decides to charge up to full if I get her to start. The TPS seems to be weird as when you watch TPS main when moving the throttle it goes up in thirds ie 33% 66% etc wiring seems fine. Any ideas? Both the IAT and ECT are sitting at -40 no faults are showing. There standard ford NTC sensors I think

Mapper Download the latest software and then read the firmware release notes. OBD2 Knock E-throttle 25 Parameter logging All these used to be addons but are all now enabled

You can check the release history in firmware update section in the ecu